What vehicle will be a worthy replacement for your sedan when it is time?
01-05-2019, 07:44 PM
#1471
Registered Member
I often wonder with these new electronic parking brakes, what happens if the battery dies.
The '16 I test drove wasn't too bad with the stock clutch. In fact, it wouldn't even be an area of concern. No matter how well you can rev match with your feet, the computer does it better and more precise. I would gladly welcome that into the G. Odd the 370z has it but ours doesn't.
I think the AT is a $1500 or so option. AT also gets slightly better mpg along with remote start. The 6mt has gm's stupid CAGS system (bypassable).
The '16 I test drove wasn't too bad with the stock clutch. In fact, it wouldn't even be an area of concern. No matter how well you can rev match with your feet, the computer does it better and more precise. I would gladly welcome that into the G. Odd the 370z has it but ours doesn't.
I think the AT is a $1500 or so option. AT also gets slightly better mpg along with remote start. The 6mt has gm's stupid CAGS system (bypassable).
Auto rev matching would be kind of nice to have. It takes some fun out of it, but would make heel and toeing easier (I can't get it down in this car).
01-05-2019, 09:52 PM
#1472
The few salespeople I asked had no clue. Probably some blurb in the owner's manual about it.
I could never get the hang of heel/toe. Maybe my feet are too bigż?. I did eventually figure out braking/blipping throttle on the bike though (for those that don't know, front brake and throttle controls are both on the right handle bar). Auto throttle blipping allows more attention to be focused on the line, apex, etc.
I could never get the hang of heel/toe. Maybe my feet are too bigż?. I did eventually figure out braking/blipping throttle on the bike though (for those that don't know, front brake and throttle controls are both on the right handle bar). Auto throttle blipping allows more attention to be focused on the line, apex, etc.
I've tried a few times in my S2000 and I end up just stomping the brake too hard.
01-06-2019, 01:13 PM
#1474
Registered Member
I can't even work out in my mind how you would do that on a bike, sounds impossible.
But glad I'm not the only one that finds heal and toeing hard in this car. I try it almost everyday when I exit the highway and it also results in me slamming on the brakes. I've had 3 successful tries in almost the 2 years I've owned it.
But glad I'm not the only one that finds heal and toeing hard in this car. I try it almost everyday when I exit the highway and it also results in me slamming on the brakes. I've had 3 successful tries in almost the 2 years I've owned it.
01-06-2019, 01:17 PM
#1475
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
I've tried and given up more times than I can count. Seems like two or more times I year I get it into my head to figure this out, and fail each time. I'm not proud, LOL.
In the end, I'm satisfied with blipping the throttle and trying to catch a reasonable sync to the lower gear.
In the end, I'm satisfied with blipping the throttle and trying to catch a reasonable sync to the lower gear.
01-06-2019, 05:03 PM
#1476
I can't even work out in my mind how you would do that on a bike, sounds impossible.
But glad I'm not the only one that finds heal and toeing hard in this car. I try it almost everyday when I exit the highway and it also results in me slamming on the brakes. I've had 3 successful tries in almost the 2 years I've owned it.
But glad I'm not the only one that finds heal and toeing hard in this car. I try it almost everyday when I exit the highway and it also results in me slamming on the brakes. I've had 3 successful tries in almost the 2 years I've owned it.
On other tidbit. Play in the throttle cable results in sloppy shifts.
The following users liked this post:
obsidiansamurai (01-07-2019)
01-07-2019, 12:24 AM
#1477
So all this BMW talk of N54, N55, and S55 engines led me down a pretty big rabbit hole yesterday. The forged internals of the N54 sound appealing, but it looks like a pretty serious custom tune would be required to get it up to tuned M3 power levels (500 whp). Kits from the most respected tuners like Turner, Dinan, and Cobb don't even get the car up to 400 crank hp w/o some bolt ons. There are not a lot of 3 series out there with the N54 and a manual transmission and I only found one in the sedan. They are all pretty vanilla looking compared to the M3. Trying to sort cooling issues, brakes, seats, etc. is all the time and money I spent on the G37S that I really don't want to repeat.
This got me thinking about the 1 series. I don't love the styling, but I have seen some with different wheels and body kits that look decent. The interior is all last gen M3 and I am not a huge fan of that either. They are pretty cheap if you can find them, but then I run into the same issue of spending a lot to upgrade cooling, seats, brakes, etc. for track days. The 1 series got me looking at the M2 & the M2 Competition. They both sound great except for the ride and the price. Then I compared the styling and practicality to an M3 which would be a way better choice and I am right back where I started.
Well, that was fun while it lasted.
Thanks for finding that car for me. I believe that is the N55 single turbo engine (unless wikipedia is wrong- I know that never happens...) It's just a little too vanilla for me and probably a lot more money than I want to spend in upgrades to get to the next performance level that I am seeking.
The Lancer Evo has more weight over the front end compared to our cars, but it is not FWD biased. The handling is phenomenal in those cars and so is the steering for AWD- especially compared to Subarus. The STI has had varying degrees of adjustablility of the center diff to try to send more power to the rear, but it is still an understeering pig compared to our cars. The Evo X was the first one on our shores with S-AWC that actually speeds up the outer rear wheel to get you around the corner faster (just one of its many tricks.) It is basically like cheating if you are not a very smooth driver or lazy with your inputs. You can still drive faster with the system off if you are good and drive clean lines.
Those Evos are fun cars if you can find one that is relatively clean and has not had the crap already kicked out of it (good luck). They do hold their value much better than our cars and almost to the silly level of a used STI (still only 305 hp 14 years later??). However, the interiors on all of them will feel very cheap with lots of hard plastic compared to a G37S. I came out of a '14 Evo X GSR to get my G37S and the only thing I miss a few days in the winter is the AWD (and sometimes the punch of the turbo, but not the awful sound of the exhaust).
This got me thinking about the 1 series. I don't love the styling, but I have seen some with different wheels and body kits that look decent. The interior is all last gen M3 and I am not a huge fan of that either. They are pretty cheap if you can find them, but then I run into the same issue of spending a lot to upgrade cooling, seats, brakes, etc. for track days. The 1 series got me looking at the M2 & the M2 Competition. They both sound great except for the ride and the price. Then I compared the styling and practicality to an M3 which would be a way better choice and I am right back where I started.
Well, that was fun while it lasted.Thanks for finding that car for me. I believe that is the N55 single turbo engine (unless wikipedia is wrong- I know that never happens...) It's just a little too vanilla for me and probably a lot more money than I want to spend in upgrades to get to the next performance level that I am seeking.
The Lancer Evo has more weight over the front end compared to our cars, but it is not FWD biased. The handling is phenomenal in those cars and so is the steering for AWD- especially compared to Subarus. The STI has had varying degrees of adjustablility of the center diff to try to send more power to the rear, but it is still an understeering pig compared to our cars. The Evo X was the first one on our shores with S-AWC that actually speeds up the outer rear wheel to get you around the corner faster (just one of its many tricks.) It is basically like cheating if you are not a very smooth driver or lazy with your inputs. You can still drive faster with the system off if you are good and drive clean lines.
Those Evos are fun cars if you can find one that is relatively clean and has not had the crap already kicked out of it (good luck). They do hold their value much better than our cars and almost to the silly level of a used STI (still only 305 hp 14 years later??). However, the interiors on all of them will feel very cheap with lots of hard plastic compared to a G37S. I came out of a '14 Evo X GSR to get my G37S and the only thing I miss a few days in the winter is the AWD (and sometimes the punch of the turbo, but not the awful sound of the exhaust).
I've tried and given up more times than I can count. Seems like two or more times I year I get it into my head to figure this out, and fail each time. I'm not proud, LOL.
In the end, I'm satisfied with blipping the throttle and trying to catch a reasonable sync to the lower gear.
In the end, I'm satisfied with blipping the throttle and trying to catch a reasonable sync to the lower gear.
1. Place the ball of the right foot on the right half of the brake. When heavy braking maintain modulation on the brake and roll the outside of the foot to blip the throttle.
2. Brake using the toes and rotate the foot to engage the throttle with your heel. Not a personal fan of this one, but some do. Good for bottom pivot pedals, but still dont like it.
3. Same as 2, but flip foot. Foot is twisted out with the brake about your arch. Then use the toe to engage the top of the throttle pedal. Requires more movement of your foot with the bottom hinge pedals, but Tsuchiya would be so honored.
Also helps to have good spacing between your pedals. My race cars always had about 1/4 between the brake and gas... helped with method 1.
The following users liked this post:
obsidiansamurai (01-07-2019)
01-07-2019, 07:31 AM
#1478
It's easier if you have long fingers. I ended up having to get adjustable levers (C5 - https://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-ufe2g...son-charts.jpg). The trick is to brake with the index/middle finger while using the outer palm to blip the throttle. Of course, a small amount of clutch is also needed to unload the trans. The whole process takes about a second or less to do. Took lots of practice to get it right. Proper control positioning/adjustment is paramount. Levers should be at the correct angle and distance away for your hands. Shifter (left foot) should be at proper angle for your feet/boots.
On other tidbit. Play in the throttle cable results in sloppy shifts.
On other tidbit. Play in the throttle cable results in sloppy shifts.
01-07-2019, 08:53 AM
#1479
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
AutoBlip, anyone? Not truly a rev-match design like the 370Z, but probably good enough 99% of the time.
Auto-Blip Home
Auto-Blip Home
Last edited by Rochester; 01-07-2019 at 09:02 AM.
01-07-2019, 11:42 AM
#1481
Chucks do definitely help, boots are the worst (another reason to hate winter). But there's only so much one can do with some wide size 12/13 US feet.
Only plus side is that my left foot never misses the shifter on my bike
01-07-2019, 11:57 AM
#1482
roll ankle method... otherwise your boat is hitting all three pedals!
01-07-2019, 12:51 PM
#1483
I drove the ATS-V and the transmission and clutch were great (the opposite of our G's stock). I hear the transmission is bulletproof too since it has been around quite a while. There were small paddles on the back of both sides of the steering wheel to turn the rev matching on and off. It worked pretty well and was easy to heel-toe shift too.
Our cars are easy to heel and toe, but maybe you guys are trying to use your heel? It is called heel and toe because old cars had huge gaps between the pedals and you really did have to use your heel and toe to downshift. (You also had to double clutch on downshifts due to the lack of synchros. This was how I learned- but unnecessary now.) You don't even need to angle your foot as much as the picture below. All you really need to do is push in the brake with roughly the left 3/4 of your foot and blip the throttle with the right 1/4 of your foot during the split second the car is in neutral when you down shift. It is difficult to explain, but easy to do once you figure it out. I drove to work with my snow boots on the other day and was heel and toe shifting. I probably do it a few times a day without even thinking about it. That's how you get good at it. Just make it a part of your normal driving.
Our cars are easy to heel and toe, but maybe you guys are trying to use your heel? It is called heel and toe because old cars had huge gaps between the pedals and you really did have to use your heel and toe to downshift. (You also had to double clutch on downshifts due to the lack of synchros. This was how I learned- but unnecessary now.) You don't even need to angle your foot as much as the picture below. All you really need to do is push in the brake with roughly the left 3/4 of your foot and blip the throttle with the right 1/4 of your foot during the split second the car is in neutral when you down shift. It is difficult to explain, but easy to do once you figure it out. I drove to work with my snow boots on the other day and was heel and toe shifting. I probably do it a few times a day without even thinking about it. That's how you get good at it. Just make it a part of your normal driving.
01-07-2019, 03:21 PM
#1485
Nice! My dad taught me how to double clutch because he had an Alfa Romeo, some MG's, and a number of other sports cars in the 60's and 70's that required it. Double Clutching was the way I always did it until I read a racing book about heel and toe down shifting and suddenly realized I was wasting time. Heel and toe is so much easier and quicker, but it took me a few tries to retrain my brain as I was so used to double clutching. I probably couldn't do it smoothly anymore, but I can heel and toe in my sleep. (In fact, sometimes my wife thinks that I shift in my sleep)