Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

Funny how that works out. My wife's dream car is a limo with a driver, so not a huge surprise I too end up driving just about everywhere we go together. It's those mod-happy paws that are the problem.

Conversation this morning:
Me: I'm going to order a stage 1 tune for your car.
Her: It's fast enough for me
Me:

rotarymike

iTrader: (4)

We actually had a discussion over whether we should cave and get a 45TFSI, which from what I can tell is $3k for a tune from 201 up to 268HP. My point was if the 40s are so unwanted, we should be able to get a better deal, and we can always do a plug-in tune on it if she needs the extra HP. She agreed. Sucker.

Found out it had a hatch full of goodies we didn't get charged for - all weather mats, roof crossbars, hatch cargo cover, etc. All that's missing is an all weather hatch mat ($50 on amazon) and maybe mud flaps, depending on how dirty it gets driving around. With the CX5 they made such a huge difference in how clean the car stayed (OEM flaps, very low profile for both the Mazda and the Audi). And we need to get a hitch installed for the small trailer/bike rack, as I've yet to engineer something nice looking for the G.

Actually drove the Mazda to work today since it was blocking everything else in and the car cover on the G was soaking wet. I'm going to miss it - it's a damn nice car.

rotarymike

iTrader: (4)

I'm a mechanic (still, mentality-wise) with ADHD and a track addiction (in remission). THAT PART IS SOOO DIFFICULT.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Why don't you keep the Mazda, and go full-on hobby car with the G?

Granted, insurance on 3 cars sucks. The only thing worse is insurance on 4 cars.

rotarymike

iTrader: (4)

I don't need a DD - I have the work car for that. So other than the aforementioned camping trip before school starts, no need for the older CUV. I think we have a cousin that needs it - they just had a kid and their car makeup is a Veloster and a motorcycle.

Where I'm dreading an argument is buying a painter's van for a tow vehicle/tool caddy/camper. She agreed that I can use my small inheritance from my mom to build a track car, but it needs to get to the track somehow, and the van will need to be insured and road legal.

buddybash

If the prices were not so insane a clean e90

backman_66

I've been eyeing e90's for a while now. I'd love to own one someday.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Out of curiosity, which E90? ie. which engine?

backman_66

The 2008-2011 with the S65 4.0L V8 that makes 414hp.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Good choice. The S65 is considered to be a pretty solid engine. I've the (I6) N54T in my E89... different beast but a powerhouse all the same.

As the old saying goes..."There's no replacement for displacement..."

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

I thought those were somewhat notoriously unreliable? Don't they rod bearing issues, and something with the variable valve timing actuators failing?

backman_66

Haha, yes precisely those two actually. Thats why you find one with those jobs done already, then its pretty reliable 😁

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

I'm by no means an expert on those cars, but I don't think there is a permanent fix for either of those items. At best you're buying one that has had them jobs done recently, enjoying the next 50K or so, and unloading the car.

Maybe I'm in the minority, but I have a hard time believing a high performance decade old BMW (at the newest) with an 8000+ rpm redine is at all reliable. Maybe if you're talking as a second car.......

backman_66

I've done quite a bit of research into that platform and most people just have to replace the rod bearings once with aftermarket ones and they're good to go for the life of the car. Same with the throttle actuators if they go aftermarket. The main problem with those stock bearings in the first place is that people don't give their engines sufficient time to warm up to operating temp before romping on it.

I definitely understand your concerns though about a decade old BMW in terms of reliability. Just gotta do your research into the most common failure points and know what you're getting into before buying. They aren't cheap to maintain either way.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

I always went by the coolant temp as an indicator of when I was good to romp, but now that I have an oil temperature gauge, I probably didn't give prior cars sufficient warm up time before getting on it. Takes a lot longer to get oil to 165+ than it does the coolant temp to show "warm".