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I got a great deal on mine but the circumstances were the perfect scenario. The right buyer will see the value in the modifications and care and pay a premium; especially for a 6MT Sedan. Before I found a replacement, I searched nationwide for a 6MT Sedan and only popped one result. Ask was 15k+ w/ 70k miles and an accident on record.
Thanks for all the support guys! Your responses are awesome. You are totally right to be shocked. I was too. The day before I saw this truck I would have never thought about getting it. But sometimes you see something and you just know.
I think this new vehicle will be very fun too, just in a different way. I think that secretly a part of me has always wanted a badazz compact truck since the black Toyota in Back to the Future. I didn't realize it until I started picking out rims and subconsciously picked a similar color scheme. My other thought about the Jeep is that these things don't depreciate very much so if I change my mind down the road, it shouldn't be the end of the world.
I know I'll never be able to sell my car for what it's worth to me because I put in all the work. I just want it to go to a good home. But this is bittersweet because I really enjoyed this forum and talking to all of you guys about G car things. I'll probably still post up in here because the Jeep allows me to get a much more focused track car down the road that will not need to be so practical as a daily driver and ultimately compromised. Maybe I keep the Jeep for a few years and then get a new Z or STI if they turn out to be as great as I think they have the potential to be.
Here is one cool bit of engineering on the Jeep. I'm sure most of you know that Wranglers have drain plugs in the floor. The winter mats actually have a hole in the mat that lines up perfectly with the drain plug at the lowest point of the mat so water drains right out of the truck when you pull out the plug. Great for spills, but awesome to park in an insulated garage during winter at night so the slush and slop drain out and don't freeze to the inside of the windshield the next day when it is parked outside at work. Very cool.
After I totaled mine, I seriously considered just buying another one, but a G37S Sedan is a pretty rare bird, and a 6MT even more so. I thought the resale values were pretty good, all things considered. I think as they get even more rare the right buyer could definitely pay a premium.
FWIW, I got $6600 for mine from the insurance company before my deductible when they totaled it, and it was a 2011 with 200,000 miles on it. I was very sad to see it go, but the math was a no-brainer when the repair estimate was in the $5000 range.
After I totaled mine, I seriously considered just buying another one, but a G37S Sedan is a pretty rare bird, and a 6MT even more so. I thought the resale values were pretty good, all things considered. I think as they get even more rare the right buyer could definitely pay a premium.
FWIW, I got $6600 for mine from the insurance company before my deductible when they totaled it, and it was a 2011 with 200,000 miles on it. I was very sad to see it go, but the math was a no-brainer when the repair estimate was in the $5000 range.
It'll be interesting to see what a heavily modded G goes for.
You've been busy! What prompted the S3 subframe? And how do you like the front sway? Most people just stick with the rear since the FSB is more complex.
Did any of you see this article on the next generation GT-R a few days ago? They are claiming that Nissan will release the next gen GT-R next year on the same platform like the new Z and this GT-R will debut as a 2024 hybrid. Before that they plan to release a modified GT-3 derived 710 hp version.
You've been busy! What prompted the S3 subframe? And how do you like the front sway? Most people just stick with the rear since the FSB is more complex.
Yeah, I got a little carried away. I figured if I was taking apart the front end I might as well only do it once. I knew I wanted to do the control arms to improve steering feel and I snagged the cast aluminum subframe used from the UK off ebay for $200 after I looked under the car and saw some minor rust spots starting on the original stamped steel subframe. (it's a snow-belt car) And I thought that doing both front and rear sways would allow me to go a little stiffer overall, plus the extra negative camber in front from the control arms would also dial out a little of the original understeer. As a bonus, with the cast aluminum subframe and control arms, I've made the front both stiffer and around 20lbs lighter overall. And then, of course, it's easier to get to the downpipe while the subframe is dropped...
Obviously the RSB is a much bigger change in stiffness than the front. In general it feels pretty neutral front-to-back with the everything at full stiff. I may move the front bar to a softer setting this summer if I still get a little understeer when pushing it harder, but we'll see. The camber arms themselves made exactly the change I was hoping for. The car originally had numb-ish steering, and specifically very little on-center feel. The additional caster makes a world of difference there as it loads up naturally with more dynamic camber, and really feels like I have to pull it off-center, even on a lighter steering setting. Still not as communicative as a good hydraulic rack, but a huge improvement. Expensive, but worth it.
I notice you went with Brembos and not the TT swap? Is that an off-the-shelf BBK? I was reading up on the Macan retrofit and was tempted, but I had spent enough for one year so I just upgraded my pads to iSweep IS2500's for now. I'll face down that temptation again next time I need pads. I don't think I'm going to do anything at all to the suspension, at least until the stock adjustable dampers wear out. When it's warm again I'll do a turbo inlet elbow + pipe and maybe attempt an MIB2 retrofit if I can collect all the parts for it off the classifieds at a good price.
Yeah, I got a little carried away. I figured if I was taking apart the front end I might as well only do it once. I knew I wanted to do the camber arms to improve steering feel and I snagged the cast aluminum subframe used from the UK off ebay for $200 after I looked under the car and saw some minor rust spots starting on the original stamped steel subframe. (it's a snow-belt car) And I thought that doing both front and rear sways would allow me to go a little stiffer overall, plus the extra negative camber in front from the camber arms would also dial out a little of the original understeer. As a bonus, with the cast aluminum subframe and camber arms, I've made the front both stiffer and around 20lbs lighter overall. And then, of course, it's easier to get to the downpipe while the subframe is dropped...
Obviously the RSB is a much bigger change than the front. In general it feels pretty neutral front-to-back with the everything at full stiff. I may move the front bar to a softer setting this summer if I still get a little understeer when pushing it harder, but we'll see. The camber arms themselves made exactly the change I was hoping for. The car originally had numb-ish steering, and specifically very little on-center feel. The additional caster makes a world of difference there as it loads up naturally with more dynamic camber, and really feels like I have to pull it off-center, even on a light boost setting. Still not as communicative as a good hydraulic rack, but a huge improvement. Expensive, but worth it.
Thanks, that's a good review. I've long had this in the back of my mind, but.....it's a big job, especially since I try to justify mods by DIY'ing it. Losing another 20 pounds off the front end would be nice--my wheels and Brembo calipers already shed at least that much. It would at least offset the sub I added lol.
How much of a $$ hit was it if you don't mind me asking? One of the forum guys does 'garage work' local to me. It might not be that bad since I think it might exceed my diy ability.
I've been hesitant to add a downpipe and go stage 2, mostly because it will mean upgrading a clutch. Obviously the DSG doesn't have that issue.....
Thanks, that's a good review. I've long had this in the back of my mind, but.....it's a big job, especially since I try to justify mods by DIY'ing it. Losing another 20 pounds off the front end would be nice--my wheels and Brembo calipers already shed at least that much. It would at least offset the sub I added lol.
How much of a $$ hit was it if you don't mind me asking? One of the forum guys does 'garage work' local to me. It might not be that bad since I think it might exceed my diy ability.
I've been hesitant to add a downpipe and go stage 2, mostly because it will mean upgrading a clutch. Obviously the DSG doesn't have that issue.....
Note: I wrote "camber arms" repeatedly when I meant "control arms." I think you knew what I meant, though. It's a little hard to separate since I had everything taken apart at once and put back together. If I get a chance I'll look at the invoice and see how they broke it down for time. I think if you were only doing the control arms it wouldn't be all that terrible since I think everything unbolts pretty cleanly without a ton of disassembly. I probably wouldn't have spent the extra on the subframe if I didn't think I was going to need to replace the original one eventually anyway. IIRC I spent around $1100 total on labor for front and rear sways + links, subframe, control arms, (including alignment) and downpipe. I'm sure it would be much better bang for your buck to just do the RSB and the LCA's and call it done.
One word of caution - I'm used to it now (or maybe they broke in some?) but the firmer bushings in the upgraded LCA's made a bigger difference in overall ride harshness than I would have expected. It doesn't help that I'm on 19" wheels. I'm guessing if you're on 18" wheels it's a lot less noticeable, but I don't know how that would interact with your modified suspension. Note that there are some other options now, too. Whiteline has some that I think add even a little more caster. Beware rubbing if you have the car lowered or on wider tires or using thick spacers. My front wheels are pushed forward in the wheel well a little bit but you'd be hard pressed to tell without a before/after picture in hand.
I notice you went with Brembos and not the TT swap? Is that an off-the-shelf BBK? I was reading up on the Macan retrofit and was tempted, but I had spent enough for one year so I just upgraded my pads to iSweep IS2500's for now. I'll face down that temptation again next time I need pads. I don't think I'm going to do anything at all to the suspension, at least until the stock adjustable dampers wear out. When it's warm again I'll do a turbo inlet elbow + pipe and maybe attempt an MIB2 retrofit if I can collect all the parts for it off the classifieds at a good price.
I have the Macan calipers, they're made by Brembo.
Originally Posted by woofersus
Note: I wrote "camber arms" repeatedly when I meant "control arms." I think you knew what I meant, though. It's a little hard to separate since I had everything taken apart at once and put back together. If I get a chance I'll look at the invoice and see how they broke it down for time. I think if you were only doing the control arms it wouldn't be all that terrible since I think everything unbolts pretty cleanly without a ton of disassembly. I probably wouldn't have spent the extra on the subframe if I didn't think I was going to need to replace the original one eventually anyway. IIRC I spent around $1100 total on labor for front and rear sways + links, subframe, control arms, (including alignment) and downpipe. I'm sure it would be much better bang for your buck to just do the RSB and the LCA's and call it done.
One word of caution - I'm used to it now (or maybe they broke in some?) but the firmer bushings in the upgraded LCA's made a bigger difference in overall ride harshness than I would have expected. It doesn't help that I'm on 19" wheels. I'm guessing if you're on 18" wheels it's a lot less noticeable, but I don't know how that would interact with your modified suspension. Note that there are some other options now, too. Whiteline has some that I think add even a little more caster. Beware rubbing if you have the car lowered or on wider tires or using thick spacers. My front wheels are pushed forward in the wheel well a little bit but you'd be hard pressed to tell without a before/after picture in hand.
Thanks. This is definitely something I should do some more research on. That cost isn't totally outrageous and improved steering feel would be nice, it's one of the 'meh' aspects of the car.
Big news: I finally bought a new vehicle and looking at the pictures below it should be just as big a shock to you as it was to me. I guess I was missing not having AWD in my car and I may have overshot it a bit. So I was at our Jeep store picking up a used vehicle for a guest of mine when I turned the corner and saw this black Jeep Gladiator that just looked so aggressive and cool. A few days later on my day off I went back to the store to try it out mainly just to cross it off my list. It had been a long time since I drove a Jeep with big tires and it was a garbage ride with a cheap plastic interior. Needless to say, I was not expecting greatness.
I was shocked at how much better the interior was, how much tech it had, and how it felt like I was driving a solid tank (in a good way). I later found out that the interior won an award for one of Ward's 10 Best. Then I started thinking about how much better it would be in the snow, how practical it would be for hauling things, and how cool it would be to remove some or all of the roof in the summer. I also started thinking about how I would modify it a bit like I do with all of my cars, although not nearly as much because I do not see myself becoming a hardcore off-roader. In fact, my first mod is new tires and wheels that will be better in the snow than the big mud tires. I am excited to see how they look. I pick it up next week.
I think I was also just fed up with waiting for the next great performance car and just being disappointed again and again. This is definitely something different so it feeds that need. My wife thought the Jeep looked awesome but said she was shocked that I did not buy a sports car. I told that it was definitely not a sports car, but it can easily tow one...
This also means that I will probably be selling my G37 soon. So if you are interested or know anyone in the market for an extremely clean, low mileage, G that is a good daily driver and an amazingly capable track car with over $20,000 in tasteful mods, please let me know. Build thread: https://www.myg37.com/forums/build-t...spd-sedan.html
Congrats on the new Jeep! FCA/Jeep's really upped their game with the newer JL & JT chassis. I actually almost purchased a brand new Gladiator back in December, but ended up buying another Ram Limited since we already own a heavily modified Jeep JK. Plus, my wife is pretty intent on waiting until you can get the 392 Hemi in the Jeep before we purchase a new one, which is supposed to happen sometime later this year.
That's a great shot of your G! That location reminds me of a lock that my Dad and I used to fish along the Fox River in Wisconsin when I was a teenager back in the mid 80's.
Thankfully your G is still running. Try selling a heavily modified G sedan that won't start... Mine has a Canbus communication error that I've been struggling to find, so I haven't even been able to start it since last June/July.
02-16-2021, 03:33 PM
So I was at our Jeep store picking up a used vehicle for a guest of mine when I turned the corner and saw this black Jeep Gladiator that just looked so aggressive and cool. A few days later on my day off I went back to the store to try it out mainly just to cross it off my list. It had been a long time since I drove a Jeep with big tires and it was a garbage ride with a cheap plastic interior. Needless to say, I was not expecting greatness.
