Sedan weight reduction
#106
They are actually not too bad for 2pc. rotors. It was an easier pill to swallow than the rears since they are cheaper and save more weight.
It's remotely possible the scale was not 100% accurate, but it is also the same scale that measured the Z1 rotors at exactly 20 lbs so the bigger issue is that both rotors were measured on the same scale on the same day so the difference in weight is accurate. I could see my stock rotors losing 1/8 lb. or maybe even 1/4 lb. in rust flakes and rotor use, but almost 2 full pounds? No way. Maybe a different (non-oem) brand of rotor uses more metal in the center or the vanes?
I do not doubt your scale or the info. Just seems everyone else is convinced the OEM rotors are 30 pounds. I'm guessing they went off of someones posted information then just feed off of each other but no one actually checked the facts. Do a quick google search. EVERYONE claims 30 pounds, even Centric. Typically how bad information gets spread. At least know we have the truth!
#107
Registered Member
Knowing what I know there, instead of the rear bushing service, I would have bought these rotors on Black Friday, they were down at least $30. My rotors were 129 shipped, so I would still have paid 300 more, but it would be nice to save almost 20 lbs.
#108
So I am starting to think my next step to lighten the car is to either get an expensive lithium ion battery with enough cold cranking amps for WI or get another Sparco R600 seat and rails for the passenger side.
The battery would probably be about $500 and I should probably do it this fall or next fall as the car turns 5 soon. The seat will be about $1,000 by the time I get the rails and the bypass for the weight sensor. (I would split this up over a few months so as not to break the bank.) I really just want the seat to match my driver's seat before they stop making them, but I will probably eventually do it.
Has anyone tried a lithium ion battery or other lightweight with as many or more cranking amps than the stock battery? In WI we can see windchills as low as -50 in the winter so I cannot skimp on CCA. The factory battery has been a champ so far. I am curious how much weight I would lose.
The battery would probably be about $500 and I should probably do it this fall or next fall as the car turns 5 soon. The seat will be about $1,000 by the time I get the rails and the bypass for the weight sensor. (I would split this up over a few months so as not to break the bank.) I really just want the seat to match my driver's seat before they stop making them, but I will probably eventually do it.
Has anyone tried a lithium ion battery or other lightweight with as many or more cranking amps than the stock battery? In WI we can see windchills as low as -50 in the winter so I cannot skimp on CCA. The factory battery has been a champ so far. I am curious how much weight I would lose.
Last edited by 4DRZ; 06-03-2018 at 10:38 AM.
#109
Registered Member
How much weight would you save off a battery? As someone also living somewhere with winter that's not something I'd worry about saving the weight if it has any chance of making it so my car won't start in the middle of winter. Especially if it's spending $500 to save 5 pounds.
#111
Registered Member
I replaced my battery with the size of battery of an M37 ( group 24F), it weighed 41lb. Our car takes a group 35 battery which would've been 36lb for the brand I got. Guess we went the opposite way on this front.
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4DRZ (06-03-2018)
#115
Premier Member
iTrader: (4)
Great thread learned a lot. Especially with the front seats. I was going to go similar route, now I’m just swapping for the ventilating/heated m seats. Already have a issue with hitting my head on sunroof with helmet on lol. Interested to see where this battery discussion goes. I have a red top I swear by but it’s 3.5 years old so I wonder how long it will last. Love being able to leave car for 2+ weeks and it still cranks right up. If you can get a positive review on that battery I’m in.
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4DRZ (06-07-2018)
#117
Another battery I had recommended to me by a very good race driver was Antigravity. I spent a lot of time on the phone with the tech guys at Antigravity and they also recommended talking to Bart at Pegasus racing here in WI. He said their ATX-30 would be a good fit for me, but may require turning on the headlights in the extreme cold for 10-15 seconds to warm up the battery. Small price to pay for saving $300 over the Braille battery with similar performance.
Bart at Pegasus also mentioned that Antigravity is working on another battery that may be out next year that is unaffected by the cold and should cost a similar amount. Maybe I can stretch this OEM battery out a little longer until the new Antigravity battery debuts, hopefully sooner than later.
#120
Registered Member
Haven't read this whole thread but have you considered just changing the battery for the summer months? Then just change your battery when you change your tires.