Only a click when trying to start
10-19-2016, 10:09 PM
#1
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Only a click when trying to start
Well this is interesting...
This morning I went to start my 11 G37S and when I pushed the start button all I got was a "click". I tried a few times and nothing. The last few days, I would get the same "click" but after 2-3 attempts it would start.
The battery voltage was 12.3 volts which indicated about a 50-60% charge. I put on a 10 amp charger for 30 minutes. I tried to start it and all I got was a "click"
So I assumed the 3 year old battery was done and purchased a new one. With a brand new battery measuring 12.7 volts, all I got was a "click" when I hit the start button.
Tomorrow I will be measuring the voltage at the start to see if it is the starter, or starter relay, or start relay control. (FSM page STR-9)
I also tried two different key fobs and got the same result, so I don't think it is a anti-theft system malfunction.
Any other thoughts or suggestions?
This morning I went to start my 11 G37S and when I pushed the start button all I got was a "click". I tried a few times and nothing. The last few days, I would get the same "click" but after 2-3 attempts it would start.
The battery voltage was 12.3 volts which indicated about a 50-60% charge. I put on a 10 amp charger for 30 minutes. I tried to start it and all I got was a "click"
So I assumed the 3 year old battery was done and purchased a new one. With a brand new battery measuring 12.7 volts, all I got was a "click" when I hit the start button.
Tomorrow I will be measuring the voltage at the start to see if it is the starter, or starter relay, or start relay control. (FSM page STR-9)
I also tried two different key fobs and got the same result, so I don't think it is a anti-theft system malfunction.
Any other thoughts or suggestions?
Last edited by SonicVQ; 10-20-2016 at 02:28 PM.
The following users liked this post:
rks (11-10-2016)
10-20-2016, 12:24 PM
#3
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Update: It is the starter motor.
Starter has a strong 12.6 volts at the "B" terminal and when the start button is pushed, 12.3 volts at the "S" terminal.
Time to remove the starter and disassemble it to see the root cause.
It looks like it is a little difficult to remove... wish me luck.
Update:
The fsm shows the hard way... for rear wheel drive, you don't have to remove the ujoint by the steering rack, unbolt the lower motor mount and lift the motor up to get it out..
Starter has a strong 12.6 volts at the "B" terminal and when the start button is pushed, 12.3 volts at the "S" terminal.
Time to remove the starter and disassemble it to see the root cause.
It looks like it is a little difficult to remove... wish me luck.
Update:
The fsm shows the hard way... for rear wheel drive, you don't have to remove the ujoint by the steering rack, unbolt the lower motor mount and lift the motor up to get it out..
Last edited by SonicVQ; 10-20-2016 at 01:56 PM.
10-20-2016, 02:27 PM
#4
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Problem fixed:
The external connection (bolt/washer) between the start solenoid and the starter motor was arcing. Some 300 grit sand paper and all will be good!
The external connection (bolt/washer) between the start solenoid and the starter motor was arcing. Some 300 grit sand paper and all will be good!
11-17-2016, 03:02 PM
#8
Update: It is the starter motor.
Starter has a strong 12.6 volts at the "B" terminal and when the start button is pushed, 12.3 volts at the "S" terminal.
Time to remove the starter and disassemble it to see the root cause.
It looks like it is a little difficult to remove... wish me luck.
Update:
The fsm shows the hard way... for rear wheel drive, you don't have to remove the ujoint by the steering rack, unbolt the lower motor mount and lift the motor up to get it out..
Starter has a strong 12.6 volts at the "B" terminal and when the start button is pushed, 12.3 volts at the "S" terminal.
Time to remove the starter and disassemble it to see the root cause.
It looks like it is a little difficult to remove... wish me luck.
Update:
The fsm shows the hard way... for rear wheel drive, you don't have to remove the ujoint by the steering rack, unbolt the lower motor mount and lift the motor up to get it out..
11-17-2016, 03:26 PM
#9
Registered Member
Thread Starter
^^^ I agree.
In my case that nut/washer had not been touched since it left the factory. I suspect every dealer will simply replace the starter, when it can be fixed for no cost. (OK, $3 for some good sand paper)
In my case that nut/washer had not been touched since it left the factory. I suspect every dealer will simply replace the starter, when it can be fixed for no cost. (OK, $3 for some good sand paper)
Last edited by SonicVQ; 08-17-2020 at 02:28 PM.
11-17-2016, 08:37 PM
#10
Ended up getting me a new one, looks like $410 minus $75 for a core return forthe part including a half hour of labor (they gave me a printout of how much the warranty work was). Somehow also related to the battery as they replaced that a month earlier and it fixed the problem for a bit. I wish I could remember better, was a year and a half ago now. At least it was free too
11-19-2016, 01:58 PM
#11
Great info. Seems to be somewhat common. Nice to be prepared for something that's been diagnosed and easily fixed. If I'm ever going to be doing any work around the starter I'll be doing this just as a precaution
11-20-2016, 11:09 AM
#12
Registered Member
Thread Starter
^^ Great idea.
I think you might be able to clean the connection without removing he starter, but there is VERY little space even with the front left tire removed.
I think you might be able to clean the connection without removing he starter, but there is VERY little space even with the front left tire removed.
08-24-2019, 10:56 AM
#14
Registered Member
awesome news , from an 11g37s, so good to know. how many miles on your car?