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Lost my job on Thursday and my 10 years of Diff Bushing luck ran out on Saturday. When it rains it pours right?
In addition to the diff bushings, I'm also planning on replacing the original rear sway bar bushings since that needs to be removed as well. Since I just performed a rear diff drain and fill with Amsoil Severe Gear, I'm hoping that the fluid doesn't need to be drained again.
Any of you have experience with the Z1 Diff Bushings and Removal tool?
Lost my job on Thursday and my 10 years of Diff Bushing luck ran out on Saturday. When it rains it pours right?
In addition to the diff bushings, I'm also planning on replacing the original rear sway bar bushings since that needs to be removed as well. Since I just performed a rear diff drain and fill with Amsoil Severe Gear, I'm hoping that the fluid doesn't need to be drained again.
Any of you have experience with the Z1 Diff Bushings and Removal tool?
Lost my job on Thursday and my 10 years of Diff Bushing luck ran out on Saturday. When it rains it pours right?
In addition to the diff bushings, I'm also planning on replacing the original rear sway bar bushings since that needs to be removed as well. Since I just performed a rear diff drain and fill with Amsoil Severe Gear, I'm hoping that the fluid doesn't need to be drained again.
Any of you have experience with the Z1 Diff Bushings and Removal tool?
Make a WTB ad here or on one of the facebook pages and you might get lucky to find a pre owned one. I remember seeing quite a few people break their bushing removal tool so not sure how lucky you will be with reselling. The Z1 bushing kit is on sale now for BF for $75. I was originally going to order this one as well but was told by a local shop to go with whiteline as they are not satisfied with Z1s product materials.
I've setup an appointment to get mine replaced on next Thursday. I replaced by diff fluid 2 years/13k miles ago but I'll have them do it again because it won't hurt.
I guess at this point I will need to trust he understands what to do. Question. Is an alignment needed afterwards? I read somewhere (or maybe heard in a YouTube DIY video) that an alignment is needed after the diff is dropped.
Make a WTB ad here or on one of the facebook pages and you might get lucky to find a pre owned one. I remember seeing quite a few people break their bushing removal tool so not sure how lucky you will be with reselling. The Z1 bushing kit is on sale now for BF for $75. I was originally going to order this one as well but was told by a local shop to go with whiteline as they are not satisfied with Z1s product materials.
I've setup an appointment to get mine replaced on next Thursday. I replaced by diff fluid 2 years/13k miles ago but I'll have them do it again because it won't hurt.
@RobC7 Question. Once the axles and drive shaft are removed, is the fluid inside still sealed, or exposed? I ask because I am trying to figure out if they need to drain the fluid or not. I just did a drain and fill a few weeks ago with Amsoil Severe Gear, and would be bummed if they need to replace the fluid again. Watched a few videos on the topic and read a few threads, but could not find an answer. Z1 told me that it does not "if you are careful".
What price were you quoted for labor?
I called Infiniti just to make sure, and they offered 2 paths:
1.
Replace the rear cross member (talked about here) for $3500 out the door
2.
Replace just the rear bushing with an aftermarket one, $2800 out the door
I guess at this point I will need to trust he understands what to do. Question. Is an alignment needed afterwards? I read somewhere (or maybe heard in a YouTube DIY video) that an alignment is needed after the diff is dropped.
No unfortunately that is the kit you buy when the crappy rod shears.
@RobC7 Question. Once the axles and drive shaft are removed, is the fluid inside still sealed, or exposed? I ask because I am trying to figure out if they need to drain the fluid or not. I just did a drain and fill a few weeks ago with Amsoil Severe Gear, and would be bummed if they need to replace the fluid again. Watched a few videos on the topic and read a few threads, but could not find an answer. Z1 told me that it does not "if you are careful".
What price were you quoted for labor?
I called Infiniti just to make sure, and they offered 2 paths:
1.
Replace the rear cross member (talked about here) for $3500 out the door
2.
Replace just the rear bushing with an aftermarket one, $2800 out the door
At least they now offer option 2.
Seems very high, if it where just the bushing replacement itself at an independent shop that is competent* (good luck finding one) should be less as it is a matter of disconnecting the rear driveshaft, and CV axles and dropping the diff. Then of course knocking out the lower bushings, and rear sub-frame bushing, putting new bushings in and torquing everything correctly with some new hardware hear and there.
That main bushing is a real PITA, so this could be an all-day project at the shop. However, if they have specific experience and skills, then maybe half a day. Even at $120/hour for a full day, it still comes no where close to those estimates.
When I had mine done in 2017, it was just a part of a larger project, which was to upgrade the rear gear & pinion with 4.083 gears. And my entire project cost (gears & bushings) came in at $900 for labor.
Unless I'm reading this wrong, spending $2800 in labor costs to install a $100 bushing kit is nuts.
That main bushing is a real PITA, so this could be an all-day project at the shop. However, if they have specific experience and skills, then maybe half a day. Even at $120/hour for a full day, it still comes no where close to those estimates.
When I had mine done in 2017, it was just a part of a larger project, which was to upgrade the rear gear & pinion with 4.083 gears. And my entire project cost (gears & bushings) came in at $900 for labor.
Unless I'm reading this wrong, spending $2800 in labor costs to install a $100 bushing kit is nuts.
It seems that dealerships in general see their service growth vector in scheduled maintenance, or things that have a book cost and hours of x, that a good mechanic can do in X-1 hours while working on multiple other routine jobs at book. For us enthusiasts, these routine jobs are DIYs and we really only need the dealership for more complicated tasks like diff bushings, transmission and turbo replacement, water pump/Gallery gasket installs and such. My guess is that they prefer not to do those big jobs because that work does not scale in the same manner and may even require two techs full time vs just one.
For years, I used an independent shop with a shop-owned mechanic. I didn't like him much, but man oh man was he a skilled mechanic. And a fair one, too. Fair service is an awesome thing when you come across it, no matter what the project.
I can't recall if he took a torch to the original bushing, but I think he did. He was into welding and cutting with a torch.
@RobC7 Question. Once the axles and drive shaft are removed, is the fluid inside still sealed, or exposed? I ask because I am trying to figure out if they need to drain the fluid or not. I just did a drain and fill a few weeks ago with Amsoil Severe Gear, and would be bummed if they need to replace the fluid again. Watched a few videos on the topic and read a few threads, but could not find an answer. Z1 told me that it does not "if you are careful".
What price were you quoted for labor?
I called Infiniti just to make sure, and they offered 2 paths:
1.
Replace the rear cross member (talked about here) for $3500 out the door
2.
Replace just the rear bushing with an aftermarket one, $2800 out the door
At least they now offer option 2.
The differential is a sealed unit and the fluid does not need to be replaced.
Where are you located? We can help point you in the right direction.
Here in Chicago, I will have Togue Factory replace my bushing. They do a lot of work on Nissans and have done countless bushing replacements over the years. They said they can do it as quick as 1.5hrs but in most cases expect it to take 2-4hrs ($125hr) as the original bushing may be a PITA with the corrosion we have in the Midwest.
For years, I used an independent shop with a shop-owned mechanic. I didn't like him much, but man oh man was he a skilled mechanic. And a fair one, too. Fair service is an awesome thing when you come across it, no matter what the project.
I can't recall if he took a torch to the original bushing, but I think he did. He was into welding and cutting with a torch.
Sounds exactly like the guy I've used for years! He is very fair and will rarely turn away a job for a customer that has an understanding of the time involved for the repair; in addition, he knows if I bring the parts to him that they will be excellent quality and that I understand he can't warranty the part. If you walk through his door and start rattling on about cheaper parts you found online and other quotes you've collected from misc sources, then start making him feel like a crook, he will send you away. For the Rear Diff, I didn't ask him for a quote because I know that he will figure things out once under the car and call me if he thinks it will cost alot more than I'm expecting.
My guy loves torches as well and used these skills to repair the "kinked" header pipe (happened when he took it off road) on my son's Ranger in order to save me the cost of a new catalytic converter.
The differential is a sealed unit and the fluid does not need to be replaced.
Where are you located? We can help point you in the right direction.
Here in Chicago, I will have Togue Factory replace my bushing. They do a lot of work on Nissans and have done countless bushing replacements over the years. They said they can do it as quick as 1.5hrs but in most cases expect it to take 2-4hrs ($125hr) as the original bushing may be a PITA with the corrosion we have in the Midwest.
I'm in San Diego, and my car has spent its life in my garage. Which is why the others poke fun at my rust being clean :-)
I'm actually bummed that the damn bushing busted as I thought it would last another couple of years till I sell the car. I was going to use it as a selling point. "Look, still on the original diff bushing and these are known to go out between 6-10 years with any form of aggressive driving." Now I have the stained diff cover which has become a trademark for the G.
So.. last night I was doing my side hustle and I leave the car idling in parking lots a lot for this side hustle.. but this time I was waiting about 30 minutes with the car out there idling.
I come back to the car, approaching from the rear passenger side direction, and I see smoke that appears to be coming from the back of the car. I thought "wow, it doesn't seem that cold. why is that coming out the exhaust?"
I get closer and notice a big puddle on the ground. I think "I don't remember liquid being here when I left the car"... and I see some guy that looks a little creepy, walking around with a dog, and coming towards me. I prepared myself for an encounter for him, as I kept looking at him and he kept coming towards me.. but he eventually went another direction. For a brief moment, I thought he did something to sabotage my car, in order to distract me and attack/rob me.
So when he left I looked at the car again and got my flash light out. I see something odd, open the hood, and confirm my suspicion...
Sooo.. the hose was replaced back in 2020. I bought the car from a dealer, and someone found me at a car show and told me that a few blocks over in town, the original owner of the vehicle (who traded it to the Honda dealer for a Type R), wanted to give me some parts. So I drove over to meet him, and he gave me a heater hose and told me there's a leak.
Well now, it looks like the infamous issue happened to my car too:
Thanks (as usual) to @projectpanda13 I was guided in the right direction and he gave me all the answers to my questions. Also thanks to @Said Amir for the part numbers and information.
It was a huge pain, even with the 11 inch 90 degree pliers.. It took a couple hours.. but I pulled the hose from the firewall and broke the connector, broke the connector on the other hose going to the engine, insertd the steel connector, and put back the hose going to the firewall. Added coolant and bled.
One of the casualties:
Yeah, I'd like to upgrade to the Z1 part some time but right now I'm really focused on saving money and just needed the car to work for various things this week and weekend.
11-06-2023, 06:01 PM
