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I think the chocks are required in Europe, so no point in including them in the english-language parts guide. Unless it also has EIM and JDM market parts also.
G37 content: I drove mine to work today. Been about a month since I've been in it (thank you battery tender). I'm driving it so rarely that I feel like annotating the drive is important.
This is me now too. Need to take the subway out to the end of the line, then Uber to the garage where I’ve decided to store my G. So I drive it around once per month, likely less moving forward
Still need to buy a battery tender, did you get the regular one?
This is me now too. Need to take the subway out to the end of the line, then Uber to the garage where I’ve decided to store my G. So I drive it around once per month, likely less moving forward
Still need to buy a battery tender, did you get the regular one?
I got the older model of this: Battery Tender Plus 12V Battery Charger and Maintainer: 1.25 AMP Powersport Battery Charger and Maintainer for Motorcycles, ATVs, UTVs - Smart 12 Volt Automatic Float Charger - 021-0128 https://a.co/d/fzKjiHG
Looks excellent Hexotic. Ever consider a bigger emblem in the center of that mesh grill?
For me: pulled out the G today and took it for a spin. Planning to pick up a battery tender soon, now that it’ll be driven less than once per month. And gather the last pieces and tools for my “sunroof drain rerouting” adventure that’s tentatively scheduled for next weekend…
Nope, I think this one is perfectly proportionate.
I may have finally blown my front shocks, so I may be out a good chunk of change with some coils... Keeping the car around for a few more years at least might as well.
2 quarts shipped was under $60 (need to setup an account to get the lower price). I used 1.5 quarts, which seems typical based on others’ experience.
In addition to their top notch reputation Amsoil has in the G/370Z community, I selected Amsoil Severe Gear primarily because of claims to reduce operating temperatures and promote long oil, seal & equipment life without the need for an expensive differential cooler like this: https://www.z1motorsports.com/differ...t-p-46655.html
It also contains friction modifiers for limited-slip applications (Sport model with VLSD) as this seems to be a point of confusion for many. The "Easy-Pack" packaging also eliminated the need for a transfer pump as the container fits nicely in the space next to the fill plug. As many before me have noted, the hardest part of this job is getting all 4 corners of the car raised and level (back up onto Rhino Ramps, then raise the front one side at a time using jack/stands and a magnetic level to get as close as you can to level). The drain and fill plugs are 10mm Hex bits that are a little tricky to dislodge while lying under the car, but not too difficult to remove/replace while reusing the existing washers.
While I was under there, I also checked suspension components (inc. diff bushing, which still appear to be ok) and cleaned up a few items (see below).
Anyways, I thought I’d share as there’s often some hesitation about the DIY nature of this job. Dealer near me charges $170 for a diff service and they use standard Nissan gear oil: https://www.z1motorsports.com/fluids...164e56a37e4188
Been around these cars for a while. The underneath of that car is too damn clean!!!
Thanks @BULL In all honesty, I actually did a little wiping while I was under there as I always incorporate this step in any of my DIYs; oddly enough, I find it relaxing and very satisfying. Note that I still haven't figured out how to get the remains of what has become a case hardened plastic grocery bag that went under the car years ago (exhaust pipe on the left). Close to the gas tank, so I'm a little bashful towards slinging a propane torch around that area.
I also made a breakthrough with OBD Fusion under iOS (9.99) plus the Nissan 2013 Enhanced plugin for OBD Fusion (14.99) leveraging my Foseal ELM 327 OBD2 reader:
I wanted to ping you, @ILM-NC G37S and @MotorvateDIY with some questions on where one goes to determine the acceptable values within some of the following VIDs which are spread between the Engine Control Module and Network D CAN buses. And, if there are better PIDs to use for Oil temperature and pressure and Transmission Temperature and pressure. Would explanations of these values be hiding in a DSM? Also, no chance of updating all guages on this custom dashboard at once since they reside on different CAN buses correct?
I'm defintiely blessed in this respect living where I do I grew up out east in my teens/early 20s building cars from the late 60s and 70s, so I am no stranger to rotted floor boards, quarter panels and trunks. I still visit there once a year and am blown away by how much rust is present on even a 3-4 year old car. My daughter recenly moved to Oregon (snows alot where she is inland), so I am dreading to see how bad her little Prius will look in a couple of years. Although, I heard that Oregon does not salt the roads, which will help if true.
Just noticed he's in San Diego, Cali. No wonder - no rain, no trees, no humidity. Last time I was there was in the foothills for a wedding and the venue ran the sprinklers right up until the ceremony to keep the grass green.
Have a good friend out there from the RX7 world... Collin Webster. Worked for Red Hat and is on to other cars now, as are we all.
2 quarts shipped was under $60 (need to setup an account to get the lower price). I used 1.5 quarts, which seems typical based on others’ experience.
In addition to their top notch reputation Amsoil has in the G/370Z community, I selected Amsoil Severe Gear primarily because of claims to reduce operating temperatures and promote long oil, seal & equipment life without the need for an expensive differential cooler like this: https://www.z1motorsports.com/differ...t-p-46655.html
It also contains friction modifiers for limited-slip applications (Sport model with VLSD) as this seems to be a point of confusion for many. The "Easy-Pack" packaging also eliminated the need for a transfer pump as the container fits nicely in the space next to the fill plug. As many before me have noted, the hardest part of this job is getting all 4 corners of the car raised and level (back up onto Rhino Ramps, then raise the front one side at a time using jack/stands and a magnetic level to get as close as you can to level). The drain and fill plugs are 10mm Hex bits that are a little tricky to dislodge while lying under the car, but not too difficult to remove/replace while reusing the existing washers.
While I was under there, I also checked suspension components (inc. diff bushing, which still appear to be ok) and cleaned up a few items (see below).
Anyways, I thought I’d share as there’s often some hesitation about the DIY nature of this job. Dealer near me charges $170 for a diff service and they use standard Nissan gear oil: https://www.z1motorsports.com/fluids...164e56a37e4188
I use this https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline...0&from=/search and just go from underneath the trunk. No need to jack up the car, if you don't want too. I have an impact wrench and extensions to speed things along.
I use this https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline...0&from=/search and just go from underneath the trunk. No need to jack up the car, if you don't want too. I have an impact wrench and extensions to speed things along.
AWD? I’m an average size and the RWD car is lowered 1.5” or so and will struggle to get close enough to the diff other that to snap a picture from a foot or so away.
AWD? I’m an average size and the RWD car is lowered 1.5” or so and will struggle to get close enough to the diff other that to snap a picture from a foot or so away.
No. Rwd. I have an average sized frame. Lay on my side and I can reach everything.
08-29-2023, 08:35 PM
