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That's neat, I wonder how these lenses will hold up with time.
I think with some ceramic coating or some film applied from infancy, I'm sure they'll be great. Not sure about heat and cold cycling though. This is definitely on my summer project list for next year if I can manage to find the time. but I wont be tossing my OE ones.
I think with some ceramic coating or some film applied from infancy, I'm sure they'll be great. Not sure about heat and cold cycling though. This is definitely on my summer project list for next year if I can manage to find the time. but I wont be tossing my OE ones.
Installed GK-Tech Diff Brace, good thing I just did my diff fluid
My bushing is blown as per usual for $100 why not. I drove it around the block felt a bit sharper throttle response but still a ton of bushing deflection in the subframe and diff which Ill address in the future.
I was able to install it without loosening the diff bolts, removing it though might need to drop the diff a touch.
G37 Coupe upper control arms on my G35/7 Sedan. Got me around +2 degrees of camber (gained)
I have a 2007 G35 sedan (V36 body). This the pretty much the G37 sedans too. So this information would be useful for G37 sedans as well.
Years back I replaced one of my upper control arms (UCA) with a coupe’s UCA. I noticed that the coupe’s UCA gave my car some positive camber. My sedan was at stock height at this time, so the additional positive camber wasn’t necessary. I put a sedan UCA back on, since I didn’t need the extra positive camber at the moment.
Fast forward to this year. I lowered my sedan a little over 1”, probably like 1.2 -1.4” lower. My fronts currently measure 27” (fender to floor). The car inevitably got some negative camber.
So I thought: Replace the sedan UCAs with the coupe’s UCAs, to perhaps gain some positive camber back into the fronts...for relatively cheap. I got a pair of the coupe UCA for $60.
Using the G37 coupe arms will be great too, as they will retain the aluminum feature of the double wish-bone suspension. (unsprung mass you know)
Yes, I checked before doing all of this. They are different Part Numbers
54524-JL00C upper right Coupe (G37 and 370Z)
54525-JL00C upper left Coupe (G37 and 370Z)
Once I got one side off. I lined up the back bolt holes as best as I could, and you can see that the front ball joints are longer on the coupe compare with the sedan. Coupe is on top
Concerns I had:
Will the coupe’s UCA affect caster?
Will the coupe’s UCA clear the Sedan body?
Can toe still be adjusted back to specs?
I bought an amazon DIY gauge to get my ‘before’ and ‘after’. Joke all you want. But this is just to help me get a before measurement and an after measurement. The difference between the two is the key information I’m going after.
With the DIY gauge:
‘Before’ measurement with Sedan UCA is -2.75 degrees (left picture)
‘After’ measurement with Coupe UCA is -0.75 degrees (right picture)
Both driver and passenger measured the same.
So -2.75 minus -0.75 -> gives us a total of 2 positive camber gained.
Great. But now I have to answer the concerns listed above. Took the car to get an alignment, and I’m glad to say that caster is in spec, toe can still be adjusted back to spec, and camber is in spec. And I have driven the car through speed bumps, did U-turns, etc. The coupe’s UCAs clear the sedan body.
The Shop’s alignment rack measures my front camber at -0.4 and -0.3 (via picture). So if we used the +2 camber value that I calculated at home, we can say that I initially had -2.4 and -2.3 camber to begin with.
In conclusion, you can use the G37 coupe/370z upper control arms on a Sedan, in order to gain around 2 degrees positive. Plus or minus some for margin-of-error.
Considering that Infiniti’s front camber Spec’s have a window of -1.1 to +0.4 degrees. That is a pretty large window. So If the coupe UCAs can get you back into that window. Maybe this could save you some money.
Hopes this helps. This has been on my mind for the past 3 years. And I’m happy to have prepared this for the community.
Replaced the sway bars with Hotchkis sway bars front and rear. I've set the rear at the middle setting and the front at the softest setting. Was really straight forward other than rusty hardware. I replaced the front and end links and will be doing the rears next week. After the first drive the car feels tighter and flatter. Looking forward to getting a long drive on this set up. Another great upgrade!
I'm finally getting all the parts together to redo my LTCAIs. Z1 MAF to manifold hose as before, 2.75 od maf tube with straighteners, but the rest of the system is the 2.25 that I built originally - I know I'm choking off the engine some. Hopefully, having the engine tuned previously for the larger maf sensor tubes will just mean the ecu registers more air and deals appropriately.
I've got new Z1 maf-mani hoses (red instead of black), new silicone couplers, and new 45* 2.75 tubes. Couldn't find the new stuff in the wrinkle finish black that I had before, so went with shiny. Shiny pipe and red silicone. Waiting to get the nose off to see if the R2C filters I've got can be stretched enough to fit the pipes (they have enough surface area).
Also replaced radiator hoses and overflow tank hoses with Z1 silicone (there was a sale...). Still have the heater core hoses and bleeder coupler sitting in the box - not sure I'm going to have time to clean up my G35 intake manifold kinda-kludge so I might not get there.
RE: the alibaba headlight lenses - is that $60 a pair, or per? Trying to get info from the seller but so far no luck with understanding.
After 9 1/2 years of ownership, finally got a proper exterior detail. Nothing crazy as my G is not only a daily driver (although only really drive it once per week plus weekend trips), it’s also street parked.
But a single-stage paint correction + headlight restoration really went a long way in bringing the car back to life. The detailer estimates about 50-60% of the swirls and imperfections were removed. Car was never clay barred or waxed since I bought it new in April 2013
And the headlight restoration included a film to seal (for lack of better term) the plastic to prevent premature yellowing/hazing again (I’m cautious about film on the headlights as I’ve seen the long-term negative effects of some products, but the retailer swore by the solution they use…we shall see).
Anyways, for anyone in the DMV area who’s in the market for a detail, I’d def check out TLC Auto Detail (near Dulles airport). Dave (owner) seems like a great guy and runs a very professional shop. Bonus that their support staff are easy to work with, something where even great auto service shops sometime fall short (eg, left my car with them for two weeks while I was out of the country, and they were fine storing my car indoors for that period plus very easy after hours pickup).
Crumby weather since I picked the car up, hopefully next weekend is nicer so I can take some better pics:
Last edited by STownSaint; 10-24-2022 at 11:08 PM.
And the combination of the G’s formula (4 doors, RWD, 6MT) and reliability (albeit low mileage) is just too good to pass up. Doesn’t hurt that any alternatives are few and far between, not to mention more expensive, higher maintenance, lower reliability, etc etc. Bought my car with plans for 5ish years of ownership, now I’m expecting 15+ unless some major reliability issues show up. Doesnt feel terrible to have made a solid choice back in 2013 (when I was still a pretty goofy kid), one that I agree with more and more…
And it’s really nice that the site has a cohort of longer term members on here, who kinda follow each others’ paths. Know I’m not a consistent contributor here, but I still check in pretty regularly. Even had a chance to meet several members, RMB5190 comes to mind (and his apparently limitless patience and generosity when it comes to installing upgrades) but some other folks too
08-26-2022, 07:57 PM
