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I've done 4, 2 with fake chinese "leather" and 2 with redlinegoods real leather. All went over the top of the original leather. The redlinegoods is a perfect fit. Use a bit of contact cement to hold everything into place. After a out 10-15 stitches, tightly wrap a piece of masking tape and keep moving around the wheel. The thumb areas should even and stretch themselves out once the tension is even across the board. I highly recommend redlinegoods. You can also get padding and slightly larger leather I'd you want to bulk it up, they also sell the kit that adds the thumb groves. You can also have them do the wheel for you, even make it flat bottom.
P.S. heating it with a steamer at the end helps the leather relax a bit and sit into place.
Thank you for the picture.
My reasoning behind removing the old leather was to avoid this areas here. After taking off the old leather you're left with a rubber wheel with cuts in these sections to accommodate the stich which is why on an OEM wheel you can barely notice these. I also was not a fan of the perforation once it's all put together.
Because I took the old leather we did not have such a crazy issues making it cooperate however the thumb areas looked like we had put it on backwards so after trying it out a couple of times we decided to leave it alone and try another.
I actually dislike the look of a "thicky" wheel and though these companies try their best at this, unless you cut grooves in these spots they will always appear as humps.
We will see in the future if this theory will work on a bare wheel.
I ended up 3D printing a bracket for my floppy Z1 intakes. I don't understand how they expect it to just flop around in there, expected better for $500. Anyways. They don't move now, just a simple L bracket and i tapped an m6 hole and thread into the bumper bar.
Then I reassembled everything again and gave it a clean. not bad looking for 16 years old engine bay I guess lol.
I ended up 3D printing a bracket for my floppy Z1 intakes. I don't understand how they expect it to just flop around in there, expected better for $500. Anyways. They don't move now, just a simple L bracket and i tapped an m6 hole and thread into the bumper bar.
Then I reassembled everything again and gave it a clean. not bad looking for 16 years old engine bay I guess lol.
You're always making nice custom things.
It's also interesting.. I can see the steel bar that this shop was talking about which they said they removed when installing my intakes... Of course without even asking me or letting me know what's going on they just remove that steel bar.
Thanks I like coming up with custom solutions to stuff, but I feel like in this case Z1 should have thought of something lol.
Also, kinda weird that they removed the bar. That's the actual low speed crash bumper, you def want to keep that installed if you can. I would be surprised if the Gen 3 require it to be removed...
Thanks I like coming up with custom solutions to stuff, but I feel like in this case Z1 should have thought of something lol.
Also, kinda weird that they removed the bar. That's the actual low speed crash bumper, you def want to keep that installed if you can. I would be surprised if the Gen 3 require it to be removed...
Well I am using different filters than what came with it. I have some injen filters.
Rear diff bushings day 1. What an absolutely miserable job. Doesn't help that my diff looks like it came out of the titanic. Ended up getting the bushings out by cutting out the centers of the bushing with an air hammer, then sawzalling slits on the outer sleeve. Worked, but took a while. the subframe bushing was a huge PITA.
I was kinda hoping i could get the big bushing out mostly intact so i could see the condition of the epoxy fix, but that didn't happen. When I was drilling the bushing though chunks of broken down epoxy were pouring out of it, so clearly it didn't hold up over the 4-5 years since I did it.
Did the oil while it was out, but with only 20k since the last change it was probably pointless.
Diff is back in the car but I was too tired to finish bolting the driveshaft / halfshaft / swaybars etc.. Onto day 2 tomorrow....
Finished my bushing install today, went for a drive. It's a nice difference, not to stiff or anything crazy. I don't really feel much difference in NVH. Shifting seems a little firmer, but most importantly the big CLUNK and hop from 1-2 shift is gone, so overall I'd say it was worth the pain and suffering to install them lol.
Great Job at this Icrap. I suspect in the future they will include it as someone might pick this up and start making 100% fitting intakes since it seems that it's what folks are after.
So... car is parked for probably a few months, gas down to almost-push-it-home, and I'm getting ready to do some suspension mods/remods.
I'd like to tackle the gas tank vent issue (where when below 1/4 tank, you can only put in 5 gallons at a time and that very very slowly). How bad is it to drop the tank?
So... car is parked for probably a few months, gas down to almost-push-it-home, and I'm getting ready to do some suspension mods/remods.
I'd like to tackle the gas tank vent issue (where when below 1/4 tank, you can only put in 5 gallons at a time and that very very slowly). How bad is it to drop the tank?
Diff, drive shaft, exhaust, shields have to come out. Decent amount of a pain in the azz to take the whole day + some.
06-16-2022, 09:24 AM
I like coming up with custom solutions to stuff, but I feel like in this case Z1 should have thought of something lol.
