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I must have gotten my order in at a good time Z1 is estimating the 19th of this month!
My car has been in Florida all its life so the heat shields lool pretty good for the age. When I was swapping my Y-Pipe out I pushed on the honeycomb to see if they were loose and they pushed in with almost no effort...lol
I must have gotten my order in at a good time Z1 is estimating the 19th of this month!
My car has been in Florida all its life so the heat shields lool pretty good for the age. When I was swapping my Y-Pipe out I pushed on the honeycomb to see if they were loose and they pushed in with almost no effort...lol
Yup you can do it either way! The button is a latching switch, I wanted something low-profile that would not be touched accidentally. So the system is on with the switch in the position you see, I can push it in to disable the system. I really love technology and I think VDC is an amazing system. I keep it full on for DD and tucked the switch away for only when I'm at Autox or the track. I do plan to hit up Sebring sometime this year but I need an oil cooler first .. well and tires...
1. VDC ON - Maximum Attack to mitigate wheel spin and any yaw. Brake Intervention,Ignition Cut, Pulled timing, throttle closure..etc
2. VDC Off - Traction Control disabled, you can spin the wheels,Stability Control in "VDC OFF Mode" it will allow a tiny bit of yaw, throttle out of turns..etc without any of the above interventions. That is until you have too much yaw the system starts to kill throttle and ignition, it does not seem to use as much brakes in this mode.
3. VDC Full off - Yaw Sensor Disabled. Zero Intervention from ABS/TC/Stability Control System. Full power at all times.
I was at a Wet Autox and the "system" in "VDC off Mode" would pull throttle away from me randomly and would react rather unpredictably, I was also doing a lot of sliding so I knew I needed the switch to kill the Yaw sensor.
Think of the OEM VDC Off switch as a "VDC reduced sensitivity" switch. To truly kill the VDC you need to cut power to the accelerometer. I've got the same setup, albeit with a toggle on the short trim left of the steering wheel. I'll dig around and see if I have a picture.
Hmm, this would be interesting to add for me as well. I have my awd shut off switch and Canadian DRL defeat switch down there, may need to make a pretty panel and add this one lol.
Hmm, this would be interesting to add for me as well. I have my awd shut off switch and Canadian DRL defeat switch down there, may need to make a pretty panel and add this one lol.
How about an on/off switch for your alternator, too? At full output, alternator resistance is generating 250 amps. And in general numbers, the alternator will parasitically use 1hp for every 25 amps. So at full load, your alternator is using 10 hp. At light load, like 100 amps, that's 4 hp.
Unless I'm interpreting this all wrong. Not like I spend a lot of time thinking about it. But when I was a kid, I had a cut-off switch in my Trans Am, because of course I did, LOL.
How about an on/off switch for your alternator, too? At full output, alternator resistance is generating 250 amps. And in general numbers, the alternator will parasitically use 1hp for every 25 amps. So at full load, your alternator is using 10 hp. At light load, like 100 amps, that's 4 hp.
That may be going a step too far lol. Car is making 306 to all 4 wheels and 312 to the rear with AWD bypass turned on. 4-10 HP won't save me haha.
Pretty sure where it says "On 3.5L must be a VQ35HR", that means only the HR, and it won't fly with the DE and DD engines. I say that, because everywhere you can buy this UR pulley, it's marketed for use with the G37. I mean, even the UR page I just linked to has details on what cars it will work with.
My power steering went out and the Infiniti dealer ship quoted me about 800$ for a new pump. I looked into it and found an oem brand new hitachi pump at autozone. I placed the order for it because it was much cheaper at about 300$. I compared the old one and the one I bought from autozone and sure enough it worked! Just in case anyone has the same problem and you don’t want to pay the dealership price or buy a used one this one comes with a year of warranty. 👍
2011 G37 Journey Sedan
https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/power-steering-pump/p/hitachi-new-power-steering-pump-psp0011/660637_0_0
Hmm, this would be interesting to add for me as well. I have my awd shut off switch and Canadian DRL defeat switch down there, may need to make a pretty panel and add this one lol.
I'm working on a plug and play full VDC kit for those wanting to experience full control without cutting any wires. I have the 370z option almost fully complete. With the G I'm trying to find the best spot to mount the switch. It would be a Nissan factory latching switch.
Originally Posted by Rochester
How about an on/off switch for your alternator, too? At full output, alternator resistance is generating 250 amps. And in general numbers, the alternator will parasitically use 1hp for every 25 amps. So at full load, your alternator is using 10 hp. At light load, like 100 amps, that's 4 hp.
Unless I'm interpreting this all wrong. Not like I spend a lot of time thinking about it. But when I was a kid, I had a cut-off switch in my Trans Am, because of course I did, LOL.
It would work on a slow car but not on a fuel demanding one. By shutting off the alternator you're shutting off power production. Many things in the car can function just fine on 12v except the fuel pump. In my engine stand I control fuel pressure with a voltage controller. So at idle it sees a different voltage to maintain the 55psi however on a fuel demanding setup an increase or decrease of 2volts might equal to 10 psi +/- which is a lot in my book. The G has a pretty decent voltage controlling mechanism that seems to do well. Alt on/off is a no go in these cars.
Originally Posted by hexotic
That may be going a step too far lol. Car is making 306 to all 4 wheels and 312 to the rear with AWD bypass turned on. 4-10 HP won't save me haha.
Well you could always pull the old nitrous switcheroo with your AWD, toggling the switch after 2nd gear, those 6whp is equivalent to some drop in filters. You dont need that AWD after 2nd.
@BULL Do you have an opinion on the LW crank pulley for this car?
So the DE pulley doesnt fit ask me how do I know...
The comes the other issue which is harmonics, I come from a sh!tty line of harmonics from the big 4cylinder world.
Since many V6s dont have many of these 2nd order vibrations it's "ok" to install however you loose any type of vibration dampening, though not as extreme as some engines I would rather go LW flywheel than the pulley itself.
I would rather go with lighter alternator pulley and if you have a sports pump and find the right size pulley to go with that as well.
Price per power I dont believe it to be worth it, let alone if you have to bore the pulley to fit correctly like ATI pulleys.
Hell even taking a factory pulley and taking it to the machine shop to be lightened a bit would yield about the same results and you'd maintain vibration absorption.
01-09-2022, 12:13 AM
.. well and tires...
