When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Step drill bits (aka unibits) are the maker's best friend. Available on sale from Harbor Freight in a 3-pack for $10 from time to time. Those and needle files. Sometimes they work better to make stuff fit than the 10 or 25 pound sledge (the 'splainer' and the 'Australian Racing Team Multitool')
Just used to a bit to enlarge the hole a..tiny bit.. for the duct clamp bolt.
Nice. Think I'll copy you. Just installed Z1 intake as well. They felt pretty secure, a little wobble but wasn't too bad. But might as well secure them completely.
Nice. Think I'll copy you. Just installed Z1 intake as well. They felt pretty secure, a little wobble but wasn't too bad. But might as well secure them completely.
Looks good. Is it just aluminum strips? Where would I find something like those? Easy to bend, drill holes, and paint though. BTW I also went with black intake and elbow tubes for my black G!
Looks good. Is it just aluminum strips? Where would I find something like those? Easy to bend, drill holes, and paint though. BTW I also went with black intake and elbow tubes for my black G!
Easy to work with, easy to bend, doesn't rust, put out a rubber washer or paint when attaching to steel. Can get it at any hardware store really.
I ordered gloss black but they were out of stock, so they upgraded me to wrinkle black. Wish I waited and got the cf instead
I used the same stuff to make my brackets - available at HD / Lowes in the hardware section. I also have wrinkle black intake piping, but I made my own LTCAI set. I'm now wishing I went with red silicone couplers (or maybe purple) to set off the underhood - everything is black or silver but the oil cap.
In case anyone was ever wondering what the inside of your TPMS sensor looks like.... I don't have a tab welder, but changing the battery wouldn't be THAT hard.
Makes me wonder if the ones I got were even refurbished, i doubt anyone is removing all that potting, replacing the battery, and then repotting and testing.... all for $35.
Next project is about to commence. OEM 350Z shift **** + Redline shift boot (black suede). Exciting “upgrade” for me, because: my OEM shift **** is worn out and always looked odd to me, I strongly prefer the shift pattern to be on the **** vs on the shifter surround (will need to figure out a good way to cover that one up), I think the black **** and boot will be a nice contrast to the stone interior, and the OEM leather (vinyl?) boot is very noisy to me. So pretty pumped, just trying to figure out if it’s worth it to try myself or Go to the pros.
Am I crazy for attempting the install myself? Several good YouTube videos out there, so the steps seem straightforward enough. And I have a strap wrench, vice grips (to hold the linkage to the transmission in pace), and towels needed to pull off the job. Just never tried anything like this before.
Next project is about to commence. OEM 350Z shift **** + Redline shift boot (black suede). Exciting “upgrade” for me, because: my OEM shift **** is worn out and always looked odd to me, I strongly prefer the shift pattern to be on the **** vs on the shifter surround (will need to figure out a good way to cover that one up), I think the black **** and boot will be a nice contrast to the stone interior, and the OEM leather (vinyl?) boot is very noisy to me. So pretty pumped, just trying to figure out if it’s worth it to try myself or Go to the pros.
Having a Stone interior too, I'm very skeptical about that. However, maybe, I mean since your **** will be black leather and the boot black suede...
Originally Posted by STownSaint
Am I crazy for attempting the install myself? Several good YouTube videos out there, so the steps seem straightforward enough. And I have a strap wrench, vice grips (to hold the linkage to the transmission in pace), and towels needed to pull off the job. Just never tried anything like this before.
I had a friend help me with **** removal... two pairs of hands made the job doable. One person to secure the shaft with large vise grips, the other to break loose the ****... also with vise grips. The **** was absolutely destroyed. And once the initial loctite (?) was broken, it still required some heft to unthread it. It didn't just spin free. Don't fret about killing your old ****, because you're replacing it anyway.
The OEM boot is vinyl. Very cheap looking compared to actual leather.
06-09-2021, 05:45 PM
