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I mean crankcase ventilation, generally. The difference between PCV and (open air) breather is just where crankcase vapor goes...
So to better rephrase: the connections to the valve covers: are those not special fittings? Or would it be better to take PCV valves and remove the check ball and use those as the crankcase connections?
If you run an open air system (i.e. a can with an air filter and where you cap off the return lines to the manifold adn the intakes resonators) you can drill out/remove the the PCV valve(s) to use it as fittings to connect the hose to the can or get dedicated fittings as there won't be any vaccum in the PCV system anymore. In these setups ppl usually run lines from the rear vent of the valve cover to the can as well using just a hose clamp as those outlets have fittings molded on the valve covers (instead of a PCV valve)
If you run a closed loop system like Hexotic is running (sealed can, return line(s) to manifold, intake resonator return intact), you could do the same thing (i.e drill out the PCV) but you probably don't want to/don't have to as you are still running in the PCV system within a vacuum
Last edited by Baadnewsburr; 07-09-2019 at 01:23 PM.
Very Very important guys. Removing the PCV will drop some MPG points.
You can have your cake and eat it also however it will take a bit more planning on your end to accomplish this.
The VHR doesnt suffer from blowby issues like it's predecessors do so if you're having smoking issues due to PCV it's important that you dont eliminate it. Not only it will decrease mpg's a bit, it will put a bit of pressure on seals.
By pulling vacuum on the crank case you're forcing the rings to seal better and though you might not think it that mixture contains fuel gasses that the engine can use/burn.
The reason why these cars have a breather is so the PCV system doesnt pull excessive vacuum and kill your seals.
Want to try it? remove the breathers and block them with your hands, then remove your hands and you'll hear the whoosh from air entering the breathers.
I mean "BREATHERS" and not "BLOWERS" seems self explanatory, the reason why breathers put oil in manifolds is because under WOT there is no more vacuum being exerted from the manifolds, only what the intake pipes pull which is not even close to 10 or more IN HG.
Lastly and open air system is a vacuum leak that is not read by the MAF which can cause issues.
The reason why these cars have a breather is so the PCV system doesnt pull excessive vacuum and kill your seals.
Want to try it? remove the breathers and block them with your hands, then remove your hands and you'll hear the whoosh from air entering the breathers.
I mean "BREATHERS" and not "BLOWERS" seems self explanatory.....
Thanks for posting info on the gas mileage. certainly something to consider when doing any mod.
lol as self explanatory as it probably is to most people on here, I have to admit I have no idea what your'e referring to when you say "breathers" or "blowers" though"...do you mean the PCV valve when referring to breathers? or the unvalved ports in the valve covers? or the inlets in the intake from the PCV system? or somthing else..if you can point them out in a picture it would be even more helpful
Very Very important guys. Removing the PCV will drop some MPG points.
You can have your cake and eat it also however it will take a bit more planning on your end to accomplish this.
The VHR doesnt suffer from blowby issues like it's predecessors do so if you're having smoking issues due to PCV it's important that you dont eliminate it. Not only it will decrease mpg's a bit, it will put a bit of pressure on seals.
By pulling vacuum on the crank case you're forcing the rings to seal better and though you might not think it that mixture contains fuel gasses that the engine can use/burn.
The reason why these cars have a breather is so the PCV system doesnt pull excessive vacuum and kill your seals.
Want to try it? remove the breathers and block them with your hands, then remove your hands and you'll hear the whoosh from air entering the breathers.
I mean "BREATHERS" and not "BLOWERS" seems self explanatory, the reason why breathers put oil in manifolds is because under WOT there is no more vacuum being exerted from the manifolds, only what the intake pipes pull which is not even close to 10 or more IN HG.
Lastly and open air system is a vacuum leak that is not read by the MAF which can cause issues.
I agree on the importance of having a closed loop system to keep vacuum. Running a vent to atmosphere setup is a vacuum leak but its minor enough that I haven't heard of anyone having issues, and most of the 3" intake companies and tuner sell pvc delete or also offer a catch can that is vent to atmosphere.
I ran open for a while because I didn't have the provisions on my intake to run a closed loop setup when I got 3" intakes and didn't have any issues with idle or anything, but have now gone closed loop.
I did know that pulling a vacuum in the manifold increases mpg slightly - vac vs open air isn't really what I'm looking at.
If I mod anything (and eventually I will have to when building the long tube intake and install the VQ35 intake manifold) it will be a catch can / stainless steel wire mesh filter so that only fumes get back to the intake like what hexotic has.
What I'm really just asking about is fittings. If you look at the parts included with this https://conceptzperformance.com/eps-...hr_p_31774.php and ignore the open-air part, you'll see that there are some metal fittings from the valve cover to AN thread, then AN hose elbows.
What I'm looking for are part numbers / alternatives to those (unspecified) fittings, which are supposedly nigh on $25 apiece. That's a lot of $ for an AN fitting that isn't aerospace type certified.
While we're having the discussion, what do FI VQs do? Check valve at the intake so air only in vacuum, not pressure? Vacuum reservoir tank? Connected back to intake before the turbo(s)?
Also - I don't think that open air breathers are an air/vac leak, as long as you plug the intake tube connections. It would actually mean a little *less* air through the system - that little bit of air being pulled through the crankcase is a calculated value not an actively measured one (it's after the MAFs). Ambient or Vac for the crankcase is a different issue, but not part of measured air that could mess with fuel mixture.
//Could be wrong, willing to admit the coffee hasn't kicked in yet
What I'm really just asking about is fittings. If you look at the parts included with this https://conceptzperformance.com/eps-...hr_p_31774.php and ignore the open-air part, you'll see that there are some metal fittings from the valve cover to AN thread, then AN hose elbows.
What I'm looking for are part numbers / alternatives to those (unspecified) fittings, which are supposedly nigh on $25 apiece. That's a lot of $ for an AN fitting that isn't aerospace type certified.
If you are going to run closed loop and want to leave the PCV valves in place/operation unfortunately I've never heard of any with an AN fitting on the out side of the valve.
The EPS fitting can be used in closed loop if you are going to delete the PCV valves (i.e. just the valves, not the system) ...I don't know of an alternative off hand, but its just a matter of measuring the thread pitch (i'm assuming its a 1 or 1.5) and the diameter of the PCV valves (if anyone wants to measure these I'd like to know too) and looking for an adapter that goes to whatever AN size you want (thats all the EPS piece is anyways)...
If you want to drill out the PCV valves and use them as cheap fittings (or leave the PCV valves intact) the out end will still just be a smooth nipple type (not sure what to call it exactly) connector that is meant to attach to a hose clamp so you can just use an oem spring clamp or a hose clamp or one of these https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...hoCfEEQAvD_BwE to make it look like an AN fitting or to aesthetically match an AN fitting at the other end of the hoses.
Thanks for posting info on the gas mileage. certainly something to consider when doing any mod.
lol as self explanatory as it probably is to most people on here, I have to admit I have no idea what your'e referring to when you say "breathers" or "blowers" though"...do you mean the PCV valve when referring to breathers? or the unvalved ports in the valve covers? or the inlets in the intake from the PCV system? or somthing else..if you can point them out in a picture it would be even more helpful
So during Idle and part throttle the un-valved fittings are providing fresh air to the valve cover in form of a controlled vacuum that is controlled by the PCV. This is why most dont place catch cans in these because they're mostly under vacuum they work as a negative pressure relief. Without this the crank case would eventually go under a big vacuum and eventually would pull on the oil seals.
There are many ways of running a can, running an open system will decrease MPG slightly, possible smell and the biggest draw is the forced emptying of crankcase pressure. In the racing world vacuum pumps pull this pressure to relieve stress forced on ring lands. If this pressure is not scavenged properly it can put slight pressure on the rings. This was one of the many benefits of this system. The reasons for bypassing and deletions is that most OEM setups leak oil into the intake. Oil in combustion chamber decreases octane.
On Older VQ's is better to run a full open system due to excessive blowby of these engines, the same for forced induction applications.
I believe the PCV system should not be deleted as there are many benefits from it, if there are any issues, fix those but dont delete it.
Below I made a crude diagram of it, the system can be modified with looks and space in mind. At the end all that it is is a controlled vacuum leak pulling air from the crank case.
If the two PCV have separate responsibilities and as you describe, this would explain why my driver-side can always fills up more compared to the passenger.
I decided to paint my oem 17” wheels, it was a bit of a process but for the most part it wasn’t bad. Prep work included sanding every inch of the wheel, and cleaning each one thoroughly. I added about 2 coats of flat black primer, then 5-6 coats of gloss black, and 4 coats of clear. Overall I’m impressed with the results especially since I haven’t painted wheels before. Sanded down First coat of primer
I decided to paint my oem 17” wheels, it was a bit of a process but for the most part it wasn’t bad. Prep work included sanding every inch of the wheel, and cleaning each one thoroughly. I added about 2 coats of flat black primer, then 5-6 coats of gloss black, and 4 coats of clear. Overall I’m impressed with the results especially since I haven’t painted wheels before.
Sounds like the prep work was a pain, but the result looks great, 4 coats of clear should keep the finish good for a long time too.
So during Idle and part throttle the un-valved fittings are providing fresh air to the valve cover in form of a controlled vacuum that is controlled by the PCV. This is why most dont place catch cans in these because they're mostly under vacuum they work as a negative pressure relief. Without this the crank case would eventually go under a big vacuum and eventually would pull on the oil seals.
There are many ways of running a can, running an open system will decrease MPG slightly, possible smell and the biggest draw is the forced emptying of crankcase pressure. In the racing world vacuum pumps pull this pressure to relieve stress forced on ring lands. If this pressure is not scavenged properly it can put slight pressure on the rings. This was one of the many benefits of this system. The reasons for bypassing and deletions is that most OEM setups leak oil into the intake. Oil in combustion chamber decreases octane.
On Older VQ's is better to run a full open system due to excessive blowby of these engines, the same for forced induction applications.
I believe the PCV system should not be deleted as there are many benefits from it, if there are any issues, fix those but dont delete it.
Below I made a crude diagram of it, the system can be modified with looks and space in mind. At the end all that it is is a controlled vacuum leak pulling air from the crank case.
I had to reread a couple of times but I think I got it. thanks for posting the diagram, I am certain it will help a ton of people who see these posts...so many of us are such visual learners.
I had to reread a couple of times but I think I got it. thanks for posting the diagram, I am certain it will help a ton of people who see these posts...so many of us are such visual learners.
As I'm trying to put it all together I realize how many options you have that can work. You can use 4,3,2,1 cans, open, closed, factory.
And when it comes to cans there are so many out there it gets even more complicated. No matter what a baffled can with brass filter will be the ideal can if oil is what you're trying to catch.
If looks and space were not a concern the system would be simple, for me it has to look good and has to be out of the way. No need to have a can in the middle of the action.
I’m late to the G37 party but, I put on a B2design shifter on. I really think it turned out better than I expected and looks great. Matches the Carsmo ***** and modernizes the interior too.
I’m late to the G37 party but, I put on a B2design shifter on. I really think it turned out better than I expected and looks great. Matches the Carsmo ***** and modernizes the interior too.
07-09-2019, 01:18 PM
