G37 Sedan

Speed/odometer and all lights lit up

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Old 01-18-2016 | 10:44 AM
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Speed/odometer and all lights lit up

I recently had my clutch and flywheel replaced by a local transmission shop. After I got my car back all the cluster lights were lit up and the speed/odometer didn't work. All my research leads me to believe it is the vehicle speed sensor. I called the transmission guy and asked him about it, but he told me he wasn't working anywhere near that area. Could someone help me out here? Where are the speed sensors actually located on a 09 g37s mt sedan?
And is it probable he may not know they were not connected back or even damaged by him?
I have this diagram, should this be sufficient enough to show the mechanic to prove he was in the area?Speed/odometer and all lights lit up-image.jpg
Old 01-18-2016 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by perfectgecko
I recently had my clutch and flywheel replaced by a local transmission shop. After I got my car back all the cluster lights were lit up and the speed/odometer didn't work. All my research leads me to believe it is the vehicle speed sensor. I called the transmission guy and asked him about it, but he told me he wasn't working anywhere near that area. Could someone help me out here? Where are the speed sensors actually located on a 09 g37s mt sedan?
And is it probable he may not know they were not connected back or even damaged by him?
I have this diagram, should this be sufficient enough to show the mechanic to prove he was in the area?Attachment 117601
Hope you paid by credit card?

Take it to the dealer, have them fix whatever your local transmission shop failed to do
Get a written report from the dealer, call your credit card company and request a charge back for poor workmanship and mail them the dealer receipt.

Yes the dealer charges a little more but doing the job right the first time is sometimes cheaper and less of a hassle

Telcoman
Old 01-18-2016 | 02:56 PM
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Our cars use the wheel speed sensors to determine vehicle speed via the ABS module.
The picture shows the rear diff with the rear wheel speed sensors.

To remove the transmission, the mechanic wouldn't need to disconnect anything related to the ABS system.

Check the rear diff and see if any of the wheel speed sensors are disconnected. Maybe the exhaust banged them when it was being removed/installed?

You could also disconnect your the negative post on battery for a while (5-10 minutes) and then connect it firmly and quickly. Some modules can get confused when the battery is reconnected sloppily and not register on the network.
Old 01-18-2016 | 03:27 PM
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Unfortunately my dealership doesn't service transmissions.. They outsource it all! Which is why I'm in this pickle.. From everything I read .. It would seem the vss was the culprit, BUT it worked when it went into the shop and now it doesn't...
He has it up on the lift right now checking all the connections, pulled out the vss from behind the tranny and it looked fine as far as I could tell.. No broken connectors or anything.
Old 01-18-2016 | 03:38 PM
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Ok so he was wrong.. It was the parking light...
I wish I could talk to someone who knew what was going on .. I'm afraid this is going to end up costing me $$$
Old 01-18-2016 | 04:22 PM
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Error codes p0500, p1212, and another related to the can communication ... Where is this located?
Old 01-18-2016 | 06:34 PM
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P1212 = TCS (Traction Control System) COMMUNICATION LINE.
ECM cannot receive the information from “ABS actuator and electric unit (control unit)” continuously.

P0500 = Vechicle Speed Sensor Malfunction.
At 20 km/h (13 MPH), ECM detects the following status continuously for 5 seconds or more: The difference between a vehicle speed calculated by a output speed sensor transmitted from TCM to ECM via CAN communication and the vehicle speed indicated on the combination meter exceeds 15km/h (10 MPH).

So... The ABS module is not receiving the wheel speed sensor input, -OR- it can not send it to the ECM. (broken CAN wire?)

There is no VSS "behind the tranny". It uses inputs from each wheel to determine vehicle speed.

The ABS module is next to the master cylinder. Open the hood and remove the right cover by the base of the windshield. On the far right hand side you will see a large aluminium square with a round black cylinder protruding from it. That is the ABS controller and valves.

Unless you have specialized tools (Consult-III or Autoenginuity to read each wheel speed), the dealer will need to look at this.

I suspect a pinched wire from one of the wheel speed sensors.
Did you disconnect the battery and reconnect it after 10-15 minutes?

Don't over obsess about this. You will get it figured out and all will be good again!
Old 01-19-2016 | 07:43 AM
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I really appreciate your response. I was on the phone with three different Infiniti service departments hundreds of miles away from me yesterday. So from what you said about a pinched can wire sounds right or "cut". There was also another code u1001 I think .. His reader said something about abs communication I believe.
If it would of had problems before it was taken in to be repaired I would say "okay maybe this happened suddenly" but defiantly not all three (vss, tcs, abs) something happened when the tranny was pulled and put back, and I don't know cause I wasn't there..
All issues would seem likely something is unplugged or cut... I just don't know where that would be or what I was even looking for. And I'm pretty sure the technician doesn't know either or we would of had this resolved already.
The question that hasn't been answered yet is, is there something you can't see from under the car on a lift that could be damaged by a removal and reinstall of the tranny?
Is there some sort of hub that has been damaged or not plugged in? And if so what does it look like? I can't seem to find these kind of detailed diagrams in order to see the part(s) in question.
As far as the battery goes...wouldn't I be able to clear the codes if the battery terminal removal would work?
So for me .. It's just to much of a coincidence that they where in the area of all these sensors:communication hub and it all worked before .. Now it doesn't.

Last edited by perfectgecko; 01-19-2016 at 09:56 AM.
Old 01-19-2016 | 10:04 AM
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I looked up the u1001 code: invalid or missing data from primary id and the stated cause is: Harness or connectors (CAN communication line is open or shorted)
- ECM
Old 01-19-2016 | 10:11 AM
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find the fix yet?
Old 01-19-2016 | 11:03 AM
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I left it with the shop this morning .. I was hoping to get some more info about location of the can line before I called
Old 01-19-2016 | 11:14 AM
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I took a quick snap of a post in the 350z forums ... I'm wondering if this may be a clue to the location as the did have to take the shifter out(ofcourse) to take down the tranny
Speaking of the yaw sensor

Last edited by perfectgecko; 01-19-2016 at 11:26 AM.
Old 01-19-2016 | 11:25 AM
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Ok so I just got off the phone with the tech.. He said he dropped the tranny and nothing was pinched and all the wires were intact.. He also tells me there is a new code showing up c1729... And also that all the tire pressure sensors are popping up.

There just is no way this could happen when the car sat getting the csc, flywheel, and clutch replaced.
Old 01-20-2016 | 03:43 PM
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This may help:
The ABS module is right next to the clutch fluid reservoir. (which is under the cover on the right side of the engine) Have a look in that area and see if anything is out of place.

All codes point to a CAN related issue. You just may have to take it to a dealer to find out what the issue is.
Old 01-21-2016 | 08:41 AM
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Exactly sonicVQ!! .... They found it.... They "forgot" they replaced the master cylinder also and they did unplug the abs module... Looked right in that compartment and voila massive large plug obviously unplugged..
Disconnected the battery for 10-15 min, plugged the module back up, reconnected the battery and boom .. No lights and everything is back.. Except now my key light is on.. I replaced the batteries in both of them a month ago so those aren't dead.
They tech cleared it and it was off for a while, but came back in this morning when I started the car.
Also just to add a thought provoking question...why would they make it so easy to cheat mileage by simply unplugging this module.. I must have driven 150 miles or more that the car didn't record.. Grant it that the car didn't perform very well without the abs and obvious air/fuel ratio problems.. But none the less.. If you could live with that it just seems wrong that you could drive and not record the miles by just unplugging that module.


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