mjnoles1

As some of you have read, I am not pleased with how the 2013 G37xs drives. I am not looking to push the car hard or race but this car is just a sloppy boat for daily driving. My Moms BMW X5 SUV handles better day to day, and feels more secure on the highway.

What parts would be needed to turn this slop into a true Sport Package sedan (same as oem rwd sport package, of course keeping it awd).

I read the true sport package has quicker steering, I will not take apart that aspect of the car as it seems not an easy attempt. Also, I believe the OEM true sport rwd sedan has lsd which cannot be added to the awd.

Is the only other difference the oem sport shocks/structs, oem sport springs, and rear thicker sway bar?

Will adding the above cause any issues withnthe awd system? For example, I know the awd need all four wheels to be exactly the same or it could cause issues. Anything similar with adding the oem sport shocks/struts, springs, and thicker rear sway bar?

Lastly? is there any other differences between the true sport and the awd sport?

qmantran

A lot of people recommended front and rear sway bars in your previous thread. I would start there.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Things you can do: tires, sways, suspension, and brakes.

Thinks you can't do: steering, LSD, 6MT.

You already have the appearance considerations.

VIVID

iTrader: (12)

+1 for the brakes.

While it won't change the 'sloppy', if you don't already have them, a nice BBK would go a long way into the S category.

Sean

iCrap

iTrader: (8)

Very happy with how mine handles with the Hotchkis sways, eibach springs and KYB struts... along with the bigger wheels / wider tires.

I DON'T like the brakes. a BBK would be a nice upgrade.

mjnoles1

What is involved with the oem suspension from the XS to the real S? Just shocks/struts and springs?

You read my other post and I see you underlined tires, do you think that is going to give the car a completely different feel? More like a sport sedan then a boat?

Do you think just tires and sways will make this car behave more like I was expecting?

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Yes. Tires and sways. That's all you need to do, really.

Wasn't me that underlined tires. It's your browser and adware.

ZahyMatar

iTrader: (4)

Actually, a VLSD swap has been done on an AWD G37. There's a thread somewhere around here(currently on my phone). I'm just not sure if it's worth it.

SurreyG

I know I sound like a broken record but Swift Spings, and swap the Rear Sway bar with the 37S sway bar. Feels great after that swap. Highly recommend the Swifts for the 37xS.

qmantran

The G37 and G37S rear sway bars are the same. I believe someone here purchased the G37S rear sways from Rochester thinking they would be a upgrade over his G37 rear sways and upon visual inspection both of the rear sways looked identical.

One was not thicker than the other.

I say go big or go home. Forget swapping for oem rear sways like the 370z or whatever everyone is saying. Go for Hotchkis or Eibach.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

That was our friendly, neighborhood moderator.

Heck, he might still have it in his basement somewhere.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Lol, actually they're in the attic, the regular ones, not the super beefed up S versions

botlfed98

iTrader: (11)

are you serious? I always thought the g37s sways were supposed to be an upgrade for the g37xs

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

That would be an upgrade, but you're misinterpreting what was written. The RWD sways are the same, regardless of sport package.

In OEM configuration, the only thing making the RWD Sport Sedan (and 6MT) feel more sporty than the RWD Journey Sedan are the shocks, steering, and staggered 18" rims with summer-only tires.

socketz67

I would look online to see if the part numbers for both are the same. Note that a few mm difference would make a difference, and I doubt that would be visible to any any of us.

"Diameter is generally the easiest concept to grasp, as it is somewhat intuitive that a larger diameter bar would have greater torsional rigidity. Torsional (or twisting) motion of the bar is actually governed by the equation:

twist = (2 x torque x length)/(pi x diam^4 x material modulus)


And since "diameter" is in the denominator, as diameter gets larger, the amount of twist gets smaller. Which, in a nutshell, means that torsional rigidity is a function of the diameter to the fourth power! This is why a very small increase in diameter makes a large increase in torsional rigidity."

Sway Bars - How they work and how to choose the right size for your needs - ProbeTalk.com Forums

Update...

Looks like they all use the same PN after all: https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...upgrade-3.html

"56230" - http://parts.infinitiusa.com/nissanp...intvehid=17607