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Thats not great :/ been hearing a clunk when I take a turn hard, guess I should have gotten lockouts
Looks like I might have to weld a "lockout" washer in, one of my subframe tabs is chewed up.
I have a feeling I'm also suffering from this, camber and toe somewhat check out even with SPL bolts and Camber arms however it feels like it never truly holds the setting.
Lane changing feels so odd at times, the first tire that makes it to the lane pulls the whole car to the point where I have to counter it however when it's in it's lane it can keep itself straight.
I have a feeling I'm also suffering from this, camber and toe somewhat check out even with SPL bolts and Camber arms however it feels like it never truly holds the setting.
Lane changing feels so odd at times, the first tire that makes it to the lane pulls the whole car to the point where I have to counter it however when it's in it's lane it can keep itself straight.
"Lane changing feels odd at times" I have absolutely felt this and it feels very odd, glad I am not alone.
The Camber arm hardware is original so who knows how many times they have been over torqued and stretched so I def need new hardware. I installed the SPC camber Arms with new eccentrics for the spring buckets, I should have swapped these bolts out too Guess I need to pay for another alignment maybe they will give me a break by only doing the rear
I need to go measure some things tonight but my Mcmaster cart with 1" 1/4 bar stock to make "Lockout" washers with M12 Class 10.9 Nuts and Bolts is only $45 after shipping.
The factory torque spec is only 65 ft/lb where as a 10.9 M12 Bolt can go to 93 ft/lb so it will have significantly more preload and eliminate the slipping.
Just a heads up: I know there are not many people here who have hardcore track goals for their cars, but I will be starting a group buy for a half cage with studiorsr this week. If anyone is interested keep an eye out in the group buy section in the coming days. We only need 2 more besides me to commit. You can check their site for pictures, and they include the powercoating in the price. Here is a coupe one.
"Lane changing feels odd at times" I have absolutely felt this and it feels very odd, glad I am not alone.
The Camber arm hardware is original so who knows how many times they have been over torqued and stretched so I def need new hardware. I installed the SPC camber Arms with new eccentrics for the spring buckets, I should have swapped these bolts out too Guess I need to pay for another alignment maybe they will give me a break by only doing the rear
I need to go measure some things tonight but my Mcmaster cart with 1" 1/4 bar stock to make "Lockout" washers with M12 Class 10.9 Nuts and Bolts is only $45 after shipping.
The factory torque spec is only 65 ft/lb where as a 10.9 M12 Bolt can go to 93 ft/lb so it will have significantly more preload and eliminate the slipping.
Got my order in, was planning to weld but I think I can fix the tab so went with 1/4" stainless. Total Cost is a few bucks cheaper than a single kit from Z1 but I have more flexibility with doing my own, and if you wanted too could make all 4.
The tabs are roughly ~1.33" Apart, can get a better number once I remove the existing hardware. Should make 8 Lockout Washers from 1FT of bar stock, 2 per bolt.
Bolt:Class 10.9 Flanged Hex Head, M12 x 1.75mm, 90mm Long (93474A239 ) Nut: Class 10 Distorted-Thread Flange Locknuts M12 x 1.75mm (3528N14), you can us P/N 97765A140 to save some $$ but went with the distorted nut as its common on camber kits.
Spring Bucket bolt should be able to use the same Nut/Bolt I measured just a few MM wider which should be covered.
Last edited by thescreensavers; 02-18-2023 at 11:19 PM.
Hey folks, have something weird going on with my battery. Grateful for any thoughts folks might have.
Heres the scenario:
Replaced original battery in Sept 2020
Since then, moved to an area where I only drive about once or twice per week, usually each trip is under 10 miles each
Street park, so no battery tender
Car sat for about 2.5 weeks when away for a trip
went to start the car, battery was dead
Started the car using a portable battery (plugged into the car battery terminals)
Drove the car home, about 25 miles. Car drove fine.
Parked it for about 20 min, then started right back up.
Then parked it for another 5 days, battery was dead again.
Had to jump start using portable battery again. Drove it a few miles, parked it for 30 min. Battery was dead again and had to jump start yet again
Took it to the dealer the following weekend (had to jump start again), because that’s where I bought the battery (they had a deal). Dealer tested the battery and it checked out fine, so they couldn’t replace it. Readings attached below
Dealer said they also tested he alternator and started (guess they just put a multimeter to measure output voltage?) and everything seemed fine
Thinking the culprit is my pattern of driving, but this hasn’t been an issue for over 1.5 years til now? So maybe it traces back to when the car sat for 2.5 weeks? I read somewhere that the alternator on our cars does not start charging the battery until the car is driven for a few miles? So maybe the battery just hasn’t been fully charged back up since sitting for 2.5 weeks, due to my short and infrequent trips?
Pretty sure the answer is no, but any chance some aftermarket LED interior bulbs or turn signal bulbs (with added resistors) could contribute to parasitic battery drain? No other aftermarket work done to the electrical system (and I don’t have anything plugged into the cigarette lighter).
Last edited by STownSaint; 02-19-2023 at 06:06 PM.
Doesn't seem outrageous to me. Do you have a remote start or anything of the sort? My car needed a jump start after 11 days away at the start of January and it's got a one year old larger battery in it. Can you bring the battery inside and charge it up on a tender, or park somewhere you can do it in car?
Pretty sure the answer is no, but any chance some aftermarket LED interior bulbs or turn signal bulbs (with added resistors) could contribute to parasitic battery drain? No other aftermarket work done to the electrical system (and I don’t have anything plugged into the cigarette lighter).
Actually, the answer is YES. Anything aftermarket can introduce a parasitic drain on the battery. A previous forum member had a similar issue and traced it to the LED bulbs in his doors. The cheap crap he bought from Amazon was pulling up to 350mA with the car off. Swapped them with quality bulbs, that problem was solved.
The only way to know for sure is to have a parasitic drain test done. After 30 minutes (when the car goes to deep sleep), any draw greater than ≈35-50mA on the battery is a red flag.
Originally Posted by Epiphany
Can you bring the battery inside and charge it up on a tender, or park somewhere you can do it in car?
For those who do not have the ability to plug in a battery tender- which is almost mandatory for modern cars that sit for extended periods of time- there are solar options.
I will have to check with my neighbor to see which one he has, but he parks for weeks at a time at the airport and has one of these hooked up to his (gasp) Lexus. He doesn't like the idea of having a lithium battery "jumper pack" in his trunk for weeks at a time, so this was a logical tradeoff for him. This might be something to look into...
Actually, the answer is YES. Anything aftermarket can introduce a parasitic drain on the battery. A previous forum member had a similar issue and traced it to the LED bulbs in his doors. The cheap crap he bought from Amazon was pulling up to 350mA with the car off. Swapped them with quality bulbs, that problem was solved.
The only way to know for sure is to have a parasitic drain test done. After 30 minutes (when the car goes to deep sleep), any draw greater than ≈35-50mA on the battery is a red flag.
For those who do not have the ability to plug in a battery tender- which is almost mandatory for modern cars that sit for extended periods of time- there are solar options.
I will have to check with my neighbor to see which one he has, but he parks for weeks at a time at the airport and has one of these hooked up to his (gasp) Lexus. He doesn't like the idea of having a lithium battery "jumper pack" in his trunk for weeks at a time, so this was a logical tradeoff for him. This might be something to look into...
For the life of me, can’t find by digital multimeter. But will go out and grab one and take some measurements while the car has been sitting for a while. I’ve seen the parasitic testing guides on YouTube.
Had a dumb moment when I thought the LED bulbs would be electrically isolated from the battery when the car was shut off. But clearly most lights can be on after the car is shut off…
The LEDs are all from Vled or DiodeDynamics, doesn’t mean they can’t be draining the battery. Maybe time to replace them, they’re all a few years old.
The solar powered tended sounds like a neat idea, thanks for the heads up. But afraid it’d be a target for vandalism. My car is parked near pretty heavy foot traffic. And my city has a problem with car theft, wheel theft, etc. So anything to attract attention could be a risk. Bummer but it is what it is
Originally Posted by Epiphany
Doesn't seem outrageous to me. Do you have a remote start or anything of the sort? My car needed a jump start after 11 days away at the start of January and it's got a one year old larger battery in it. Can you bring the battery inside and charge it up on a tender, or park somewhere you can do it in car?
No remote start. Just LEDs in the interior and front turn signals (so had to also splice in resistors). No place to plug in a tender nearing my parking spot. Are there places where I can bring the battery for a charge? This something Pepboys or a mechanic would offer? I’ll call around to ask.
02-15-2023, 10:00 PM
Guess I need to pay for another alignment maybe they will give me a break by only doing the rear 
.
Or did you get a coupe?
