PDG

Interesting. I was under the impression the diff brace was a preventative thing. I have no diff issues currently, and would like to keep it that. Especially since I hope to do some autocross next summer. The silicone idea is for engine dress up purposes, and preventative as well, since all my hoses are 11 years old now.

Thanks for being a voice of reason on the coilovers, lol. There is a lot of fender gap talk over in the wheel and tire forum!

rotarymike

iTrader: (4)

rather than a diff brace, I’d recommend new diff bushings, either oem or whiteline. For hoses, I’d recommend oem unless you need the silicone.

im in the process of installing silicone and hope it works well, but there have been issues with coolant seeping through silicone. There’s a thread on here about it.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

You can't replace the OEM bushing with new OEM bushings unless you purchase an entire subframe.

So start with poly bushings. But it's not a simple job, it's pretty time consuming, which can translate into big cost at a shop.

And if you're still in the mood afterwards, add the diff brace. The beauty about the diff brace, it's a DIY for probably everyone (OK... 90%), and it's very inexpensive.

BULL

Slight technicality. That bushing is used in motor mounts as well, I'm sure if properly measured a part number can be obtained.

With that being said it's totally not worth replacing it with the oem unit

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

You can't replace the OEM motor mount bushings with a new OEM bushing either, you have to replace the entire mount & bushing assembly. Same for the rear diff.

I get how motor mounts are easier to conceptualize because they seem like a more cohesive unit, more so than the entire rear subframe. But it's the exact same situation. The OEM bushings in the motor mounts and the rear diff mount are bonded into their assemblies during manufacturing. You can cut & burn them out, and replace them with aftermarket bushings, but there is no path forward for replacement with OEM bushings without replacing the entire assembly.

If that assessment is inaccurate, by all means correct it. But pretty sure this is what it is.

BULL

You're right, there wont be a fluid filled OEM option.

There are aftermarket pressed in bushings that will work that are not fluid filled.

$40 less than a poly but at this point and with all that work, why not poly?

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

I'm a fan of solid poly bushings. They're in my motor mounts, my transmission mount, and the rear diff.

IMO, the added NVH is a fair trade for perceived benefits. Maybe not for every car, or every G, but it works for me.

PDG

How do we feel about OEM vs aftermarket TPMS? OEM is $60 per sensor. Discount Tire wants $60 per for their no name sensors. Z1 sells a Schrader brand for $35 a sensor.....

thescreensavers

I have used generic "Alligator" cloned TPMS sensors in the past without issues and I have a set sitting in the garage for my wheels when ever I get tires for them

https://www.ebay.com/itm/262259993348

socketz67

My 2013 has 66K on the odometer and and the main diff bushing doesn't appear to be cracked yet.. However, I wanted to call around and get pricing as I expect it may go in the next year and wanted to stay ahead of the repair. I called ConceptZ in AZ since they specialize as I expect it may be hard to find a non-Nissan mechanic that will want to change only the bushing here in CA. CZP recommended this group as they are used for all of CZP's service needs: https://pitstopaz.com/

Spoke to Vitale (manager) and he said it's alot of work, even if you know what you are doing and have done it prior like they have.

The labor is 7 hours @ $125 per hour ($875) and he recommended the Polyurethane Whiteline Differential Bushing Set (just over $100): https://conceptzperformance.com/whit...911_p_8193.php

So roughly a grand unless you want to take the task on yourself. Would love to know if any of you have found a shop that will do it for less.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

That's a lot of money to fix something that isn't broken.

thescreensavers

If your diff bushing hasn't leaked all over your subframe id just add a diff brace since it's cheap and it will offload that bushing to prevent it from failing.

rotarymike

iTrader: (4)

I did it myself; took a few hours to get the shell of the old bushing out but nothing extreme. I did not resort to a torch - drill around center, sawzall to connect the holes, then sawzall straight down to slit the shell. Once I had a slit in the shell, cold chisel to pry it away from the crossmember, and once the shell was loose in a few spots it slid out. I used the Whiteline kit.

It would have been VASTLY easier on a lift. On the other hand, I was doing exhaust too so taking the whole diff out wasn't that bad - maybe 20 minutes to unhook everything. They might be quoting removing the exhaust for access.

If you are contemplating this, it's an upgrade/repair to perform in conjunction with other stuff, like exhaust, unless your bushing is toast already.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

My rear diff main bushing was fine when I replaced it. The only reason I had it done was the diff was off the car for a rear gear swap, and it seemed a good opportunity.

But if your bushing isn't blown, I agree with thescreensaves, get yourself a diff brace and DIY the install.

BULL

You should look into Costco.

My dad recently went through a broken one, low battery TPMS and went through the ordeal at used replacement and reprogram and nothing.

Costco sold him 5 TPMS (Spare included) for $70 installed and programmed. I haven't checked with the Costco next to my house however if true, that're pretty exciting.