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Well this is my first time seeing headlight washers in a sedan!
It is nothing more than the addition of some tubing which gets spliced into the windshield washer pump and a nozzle for each headlamp:
It is nothing like the old Mercs that had actual wipers for the headlamps...
Funny how Europe and Japan gets all of the extra "goodies."
When our first kid was born, (22 years ago, LOL) we bought a brand new Volvo S40. And that little car had wiper blades on the headlights. Seemed kind of pretentious... still does.
Great little car, solid as a rock. Although the engine was replaced (!!!) in the first year, and by the second year the hood and trunk had noticeable rust. Yes, rust.
We got rid of it as soon as we could, and bought a minivan from Mazda.
Pretentious, probably, but with a little "practicality" mixed in. We had them on one of our old Mercs (too long/ don't remember). At least the wipers were, arguably, effective at keeping the snow/ slush cleared. The idea of spraying windshield ("blinker" ) fluid seems totally useless to me. I had wondered if such a system was a EU requirement, like the rear fog lamp, but am guessing not as all models would have them or something similar... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Needless to say most of those gimmicks are long gone... and so are the cars.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 10-07-2022 at 11:20 AM.
Only at 45k miles but parked outdoors for the last 5 years or so, so my headlights were getting yellowed and foggy, especially along the edges.
Recently took my car in for its first professional detail and paint correction. Owner used to have a V36 sedan so very much empathized with the hazing headlights. Asked him about their restoration service, and he sold me by talking thru the different steps to sand and polish the outer layer of lens but more importantly, how they seal the lens to prevent or at least delay the hazing from coming back. The process included applying a protective film, which I wasn’t that thrilled about (heard about how these films can fail and ruin the lens), but the owner said the product was well tested on client cars and even his own. Guess he also sold me because he didn’t try to upsell lol
anyways, still skeptical on how well this headlight restoration will hold up. If it doesn’t, oh well. But the trial was worth giving a shot I think
Last edited by STownSaint; 10-09-2022 at 11:44 AM.
Only at 45k miles but parked outdoors for the last 5 years or so, so my headlights were getting yellowed and foggy, especially along the edges.
Recently took my car in for its first professional detail and paint correction at a reputable shop in my area. Owner used to have a V36 sedan so very much empathized with the hazing headlights. Asked him about their restoration service, and he sold me by talking thru the different steps to sand and polish the outer layer of lens but more importantly, how they seal the lens to prevent or at least delay the hazing from coming back. The process included applying a protective film, which I wasn’t that thrilled about (heard about how these films can fail and ruin the lens), but the owner said the product was well tested on client cars and even his own. Guess he also sold me because he didn’t try to upsell lol
anyways, still skeptical on how well this headlight restoration will hold up. If it doesn’t, oh well. But the trial was worth giving a shot I think
I noticed the same thing with mine and bought a headlight restoration kit on Amazon. It worked pretty well and seemed to hold up, but the key was the clear coat sealer to keep the yellowing from recurring.
Hope you all are doing well, it's been a while since I've checked in but I'll be taking the X to it's first true track day this week. Really looking forward to how it performs. I've done an autocross this summer and had some serious understeer. Just replaced the OEM sway bars with Hotchkis bars and new OEM end links ( I stayed away from heim joints as that would change my class). During test drives it feels much more lively, I'm hopeful that a full size track and the new bars will prove to be successful in this week's outing.
The 1.33-mile D-shaped oval features 14 degrees of banking, and an 11 turn road course variation that increases the total length to 1.8 miles which is the course that will be used for Track Night in America.
Hope you all are doing well, it's been a while since I've checked in but I'll be taking the X to it's first true track day this week. Really looking forward to how it performs. I've done an autocross this summer and had some serious understeer. Just replaced the OEM sway bars with Hotchkis bars and new OEM end links ( I stayed away from heim joints as that would change my class). During test drives it feels much more lively, I'm hopeful that a full size track and the new bars will prove to be successful in this week's outing.
The track looks fun! What tires and brake pads are you on?
Track is a different beast than autocross be sure to listen to your car and feel it out and build on the speed!
Fyi you can purchase a car insurance policy for your track event through hagerty or RLI and there are some others. You don't need it just wanted to let you know they exist.
The track looks fun! What tires and brake pads are you on?
Track is a different beast than autocross be sure to listen to your car and feel it out and build on the speed!
Fyi you can purchase a car insurance policy for your track event through hagerty or RLI and there are some others. You don't need it just wanted to let you know they exist.
I'll be on Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s but possibly RT660s (a friend a has a set) and the pads and fluid are Stoptech Sports and Motul 5.1.
I've debated on the track insurance, autocross wouldn't require it but a long track might make sense.
I'll be on Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s but possibly RT660s (a friend a has a set) and the pads and fluid are Stoptech Sports and Motul 5.1.
I've debated on the track insurance, autocross wouldn't require it but a long track might make sense.
Awesome sounds like you are setup! The RT660s are definitely going to be better than the Firehawks but depends on your experience level the Firehawks might be fine.
Its free to quote I usually don't worry about my self just other noodles hah.
Ah yes the dreadded code. 25-30k After gallery gaskets were changed.
Haven't been able to read oil psi however this came after an oil change to a Nissan filter and a total reset of all the modules of the car via a Snap-on scanner.
I hooked up UPREV and noticed the car functions fine prior to possibly warm oil temps ( takes 30 mins to occur)
When it does occur: doesnt rev past 4k and it bounces between that and 3k, shifting under 3k will get the car moving.
Im getting inconsistencies of VTC angles, Bank 1 doenst react the same as bank 2 at low RPM, when it gets close to 4k both banks go into the negatives.
Oil psi will let me know more however it sounds VTC issues from oil pressure possibly to bank 1 (bad bank 1 VTC or broke the gasket again)
Debris clogging a VTC filter might be a possibility as well.
Sucks I did all this work initially to avoid these issues and here I am.
Ah yes the dreadded code. 25-30k After gallery gaskets were changed.
Haven't been able to read oil psi however this came after an oil change to a Nissan filter and a total reset of all the modules of the car via a Snap-on scanner.
I hooked up UPREV and noticed the car functions fine prior to possibly warm oil temps ( takes 30 mins to occur)
When it does occur: doesnt rev past 4k and it bounces between that and 3k, shifting under 3k will get the car moving.
Im getting inconsistencies of VTC angles, Bank 1 doenst react the same as bank 2 at low RPM, when it gets close to 4k both banks go into the negatives.
Oil psi will let me know more however it sounds VTC issues from oil pressure possibly to bank 1 (bad bank 1 VTC or broke the gasket again)
Debris clogging a VTC filter might be a possibility as well.
Sucks I did all this work initially to avoid these issues and here I am.
Is your car running ok? I've seen a few people have that error code and it was related to the timing chain skipping a tooth or issues with the sprocket more than just oil pressure.
Is your car running ok? I've seen a few people have that error code and it was related to the timing chain skipping a tooth or issues with the sprocket more than just oil pressure.
My car is not at it's optimal since I can see that the VTC barely moves can feel that the VTCs are not advancing cam timing so I dont push the car.
Weird since it does this calculated jump of 20psi as the VTCs are jumping from 0-50 degrees. After some time jumping of oil psi stops however the VTCs dont move at all.
At this time the ECM triggers a CEL and car goes in limp and doesnt rev past 3500rpm
The average basis I get is 14-16 psi at hot idle, If I do an RPM sweep and let the car drop to it's lowest of idle I get a 12-14psi however this is between 550-600 RPMs which the FSM clearly specifies 14 or more at 650RPM.
If I raise the RPM to 1000 Im already in 40s and 4k rpm is 100psi and sometimes more. Cold starts it has seen high RPM (wanted to peg the oil psi needle) 120psi max.
My issues are im trying to find as many patterns as i can prior to disassembly since it's my daily and these issues are top priority.
10-07-2022, 10:27 AM
) fluid seems totally useless to me. I had wondered if such a system was a EU requirement, like the rear fog lamp, but am guessing not as all models would have them or something similar... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
