rotarymike

iTrader: (4)

I guess my only concern is how much do I need to spend on a card to play Stray LOL.

thescreensavers

For autox the front stiff bar might be good just to remove a bunch of body roll but not being adjustable kinda blows.

Atleast for the Stock G37S suspension on longer turns/Track type corners it tends to oversteer more easily, and rotates on throttle really well. But in an Autox situation the front is hopeless for anything that is tight (slaloms)

I figure a square tire setup to start would be good to help that instability and definitely swaybars.

I'm personally waiting for Black Friday on some coilover sales and go from there.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

I'm so glad I play no video games. No headaches of figuring out which gpu to go with. My only video concern is hardware decoding for multimedia (htpc). Current box has some flavor of a 1660 in it. Also have a 1650 collecting dust. Went with a 5700G last fall to have all decoding in hardware for the htpc. For now av1 needs are minimal.

Re car, it's going in tomorrow for a front diff leak. My guess is a seal. Car has 6300 on it now. Did my first OC at 1500, no leaks found. Did another OC at 5500, saw slight leak. Wiped it down then drove another 800 miles before inspecting again. It's not a gusher but needs to be fixed sooner than later.

Never had any leaks with the G...




PS... AWD sucks.. More **** to break down.

iCrap

iTrader: (8)

Can anyone confirm for me if the 2010+ auto cupholder for sedan is the same? I have this one from a coupe

Selym

I agree. More **** to break, and more **** in the way.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

Update: The diff is fine. Tech did have to lower the steering rack to check level.

The problem is this part - 49560-J5000 - Bearing Bracket Sh(aft?)



As pictured above, the left side connects to the inner CV shaft. The bearing bracket itself is bolted to the oil pan. The rest of the shaft goes through the oil pan into the front diff. Given the white color of the grease, he suspects a seal failed within this bearing. Repair requires replacement of the whole shaft as it's one assembly.

Of course to get at it requires teardown of some suspension/brake parts to get at it. Parts on order, eta a week or less.

They were surprised to see this go on such a low mileage vehicle. My guess poor construction/assembly. Maybe the seal wasn't fulled seated.

2GoRNot2G

iTrader: (5)

I just checked and those appear to be the same dimensions as the cup holder on my 2008 sedan with AT (~6-1/4" x ~4").

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

In reference to my post above, 13972, got it repaired yesterday. Even twisted their arm to do an alignment (axle nut and 2 ball joints had to be separated). However, is it too much to ask for the little things... 1) area where bearing jizzed was poorly cleaned, 2) 6 bolts hold the lower engine cover, 5 gorilla torqued, #6 not even finger tight. I shouldn't have to crawl under the car to check these things. On the plus side, the axle nut got redimpled and both lower ball joints had cotter pins present.

Does the awd G use a similar set up in front with an axle through the oil pan?

thescreensavers

So I'm looking at Coilovers most of them use solid top mounts anyone with SPL UCAs care to comment on how much worse NVH/Tire Noise was?

I use my car as a DD

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

I would not recommend solid top mount coilovers on a daily driver. I had Tein Basis coilovers on my G sedan and they rode decent on the street party because they retained the factory top hats. It was surprising because most Japanese coilovers bounce all over the place on our roads. Typically, German/European coilovers ride much better. I am not sure about SPL since they are based out of Texas. They seem to have some decent parts, but I have put U.S. made coilovers on a couple of my cars with solid top mounts and they did not ride very well.

thescreensavers

​​​​​Which US made coilovers did you use? How they ride is a bit different than NVH but noted.

The SPL part I'm referring too is just an UCA with rod ends so no rubber there hah.

There are not many shocks that retain OEM top mount.. ideally would keep a rubber mount but many of the "good" options are solid.

Frankie Felber

I have been looking for hours through the forums and can't find exactly what I am looking for. First off I want to put on 18s, but I am seeing mostly 19 and 20s. I would like inbetween road noise and feel, and comfort, so I chose 18 since I am currently on stock 17s. Is there a reason why I shouldnt? I found some nice enkei for a little over 200 per rim. Also I have no clue as to what will fit for offsets and all that, I just want it to fit snug in the wheel well 😅 can anyone help please? I've spent so much time looking and still don't know what to get.

hexotic

Theres an 18" wheel thread with lots of different examples of fitment and suspension setups for both coupes and sedans.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/18/2765...ic-thread.html

I also recommend looking at fitment industries galleries, its a good visual reference point for wheel sizing and fitment.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

You name it and I have probably ridden in it if it has coilovers. I missed it in your original post, but UCA's should not really add anymore NVH, especially not more tire noise. I had Z1 race UCA's on my G37 sedan and the only time they made any noise was when one of the bolts came loose.

What is your goal with the car that makes you want to add coilovers and UCA's to a daily driver?

thescreensavers

For the UCAs thats going from OEM rubber to spherical but I have also read that NVH hasn't been an issue with that switch.

My car is a DD 99% of the time but I plan to do 1-2 trackdays with some autocross.
​​​​​​I was looking at FA500s but since they raised the price with no benefits(covid) I have been looking at MeisterR GT1s which have double digressive valve (compression and rebound blow off at high speeds) think about curbs on a track.. etc. Alot of generic shocks don't feel good or do ride like crap. FA recommends 11k/8k and MeisterR recommends 10k/8k for my DD/Occasional track situation.

I do have equipment to see what the OEM springs are on my sport sedan but I'd need to take em off my car and by then it's too late I'd love to see what the OEM ride frequencies are.

I had a GR WRX with custom shocks that had Compression blow off which felt very good. And I've also had a car that has high speed comp/rebound blow off which also felt good. So looking for something in that realm.


One big reason for coilovers is to lower my car so I can fit more aggressive square wheels and tires for both DD and if I ever get a track set.