Sedan Chat Thread
07-25-2022, 03:17 PM
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You've got Sport 19s on the car already, right? If you're looking to change things up a little bit, but are shy about the cost of wheels, how about you get those 19s powdercoated?
07-25-2022, 03:37 PM
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rotarymike (07-26-2022)
07-26-2022, 08:20 AM
Moderador
I've been looking as well however in the used OEM side. Seems like Mustang/Camaro/Challenger/ETC could work.
Lots of manufacturers are moving to 20". Another option is to source the a squared setup of rears only of OEM Nissan/Infiniti or OEM sports cars
Lots of manufacturers are moving to 20". Another option is to source the a squared setup of rears only of OEM Nissan/Infiniti or OEM sports cars
07-26-2022, 10:37 AM
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iTrader: (9)
https://www.myg37.com/forums/newbie-...g37-group.html
They look like the old Vossen CV3, and although Vossen discontinued it years ago, there's still retail inventory out there. However (!!!), the 19" version requires special shorty valve stems when paired with the Akebono BBK. The 20" doesn't have that fitment issue.
07-26-2022, 10:56 AM
TL;DR: Musing randomly below.
I've done the OEM shuffle lots before. FB3S (12") upgraded to GSL-SE axles so I could run FC3S phone dials (14") then Sylvia wheels (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan...650508834).jpg but powdercoated black).
I brought back Skyline R33 GT wheels (16") which were used briefly on my FC3S convertible, and still have a set of Enkei RP01s (also PC black) sitting in the attic in 17" for that car.
Put the RX8 18"s (PC black - see a theme here?) on the Mazda 3. When I got the G37, it had Avanti 20"s (blegh) and the OEM 18" duckfeet - waffled a bit before I sold the duckfeet and got the 19" sport wheels (plastidipped, not PC, black).
I think the only car I've NOT messed with the wheels was my old Cherokee - and I just got a full second set so I had offroad and highway tire setups.
Where I'm facing decision fatigue is, I like wheels that are mostly space. Akebonos and Z1 2-pieces deserve to be seen. Weight is a consideration too. Therefore, I like light 5-spoke designs. I also like the Y-spoke designs like the Enkei Raijin and all the similar designs out there, but most seem to be in 18" - and *everyone* has those, from Charger/Challenger folks to every tuner car I see. I don't like sharp edges or machined-smooth portions.
The Nismo wheels are minimalist 5-spokes with the Nissan Z design language still. Not optimal, but getting there. The G37 sport wheels conceal too much of the brakes IMHO.
OOhhh - just found these: https://shop.hartnissanofnova.com/p/...4aAlANEALw_wcB
Are those real prices for real stock I wonder? I see sets on ebay for $8000.
I've done the OEM shuffle lots before. FB3S (12") upgraded to GSL-SE axles so I could run FC3S phone dials (14") then Sylvia wheels (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan...650508834).jpg but powdercoated black).
I brought back Skyline R33 GT wheels (16") which were used briefly on my FC3S convertible, and still have a set of Enkei RP01s (also PC black) sitting in the attic in 17" for that car.
Put the RX8 18"s (PC black - see a theme here?) on the Mazda 3. When I got the G37, it had Avanti 20"s (blegh) and the OEM 18" duckfeet - waffled a bit before I sold the duckfeet and got the 19" sport wheels (plastidipped, not PC, black).
I think the only car I've NOT messed with the wheels was my old Cherokee - and I just got a full second set so I had offroad and highway tire setups.
Where I'm facing decision fatigue is, I like wheels that are mostly space. Akebonos and Z1 2-pieces deserve to be seen. Weight is a consideration too. Therefore, I like light 5-spoke designs. I also like the Y-spoke designs like the Enkei Raijin and all the similar designs out there, but most seem to be in 18" - and *everyone* has those, from Charger/Challenger folks to every tuner car I see. I don't like sharp edges or machined-smooth portions.
The Nismo wheels are minimalist 5-spokes with the Nissan Z design language still. Not optimal, but getting there. The G37 sport wheels conceal too much of the brakes IMHO.
OOhhh - just found these: https://shop.hartnissanofnova.com/p/...4aAlANEALw_wcB
Are those real prices for real stock I wonder? I see sets on ebay for $8000.
07-26-2022, 11:05 AM
that price is insane if real. tempted to order some and see what happens lol.
edit: actually, its decent. I see some ebay for just a little bit more.
edit: actually, its decent. I see some ebay for just a little bit more.
07-26-2022, 11:14 AM
Right? I've got an empty credit card and the 'easier to apologize-than-get-permission' feeling about this...
Wonder what offset I'd need for the 10.5s in the rear...
Wonder what offset I'd need for the 10.5s in the rear...
07-26-2022, 01:27 PM
Depending on how much negative camber you are willing to run and whether or not you are going to stretch you tires will ultimately determine what offset you need. For me, I would say somewhere in the neighborhood of 42mm to 47mm of offset on a 10-1/2" wide wheel would be ideal for the rear of the G sedan depending on how wide of a tire you plan on running.
I think you will find the below thread very informative. I posted some of my experience in posts 366 and 367.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...fat-tires.html
I think you will find the below thread very informative. I posted some of my experience in posts 366 and 367.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...fat-tires.html
07-26-2022, 03:26 PM
Ok, math time.
Using OEM numbers from here https://www.myg37.com/forums/wheels-...reference.html
since it seems that the rear is more sensitive to additional backspacing than the front, I'll look at that first.
OEM staggered duckfeet - width 8.5 (215.9 mm) offset 50. So if I do 1/2 width + offset I get the distance from hub face to inside of wheel. With this wheel, I get 157.95mm (hub to inside rim)
For the outer face, 1/2 width - offset gets me the outer face distance from hub. With this wheel, I get 57.95mm, which sticks out 7.7mm more than the front duckfeet 7.5" wheels using the same calc and the 45mm offset from the link above.
If that math is correct, using the duckfeet rear (hereinafter DFR) as a zero reference point...
The 19" Coupe Sport rear wheels (hereinafter CSRs) (9", +45) stick in 1.35mm more than the reference, and stick out 11.35mm more than the DFRs. The CSRs are what I'd consider flush.
These Nismo 57CRs come in 9.5 with 35 and 25mm offsets, and 10.5 with 12 and 22mm offsets.
9.5 +35 = 2.3mm less inside, 27.7 more outside than the DFRs, and 16.3mm more than the CSRs - that would be about 5/8" past the wheel well. Rolled/flared fenders and/or extra camber needed to fit.
9.5 25 = 12.3mm less inside (basically 1/2 inch) and 37.3 more outside - basically an inch past the CSRs. That doesn't work.
The 10.5 + 12 sits 12.6mm less inside and 52mm past the CSRs outside - 2 inches more. NOPE
The 10.5 + 22 sits 2.6mm less inside and 26mm past the CSRs outside - 1 inch more NOPE
Keep in mind that while I used Excel for these numbers, I am an attorney because I'm bad at math LOL.
Using OEM numbers from here https://www.myg37.com/forums/wheels-...reference.html
since it seems that the rear is more sensitive to additional backspacing than the front, I'll look at that first.
OEM staggered duckfeet - width 8.5 (215.9 mm) offset 50. So if I do 1/2 width + offset I get the distance from hub face to inside of wheel. With this wheel, I get 157.95mm (hub to inside rim)
For the outer face, 1/2 width - offset gets me the outer face distance from hub. With this wheel, I get 57.95mm, which sticks out 7.7mm more than the front duckfeet 7.5" wheels using the same calc and the 45mm offset from the link above.
If that math is correct, using the duckfeet rear (hereinafter DFR) as a zero reference point...
The 19" Coupe Sport rear wheels (hereinafter CSRs) (9", +45) stick in 1.35mm more than the reference, and stick out 11.35mm more than the DFRs. The CSRs are what I'd consider flush.
These Nismo 57CRs come in 9.5 with 35 and 25mm offsets, and 10.5 with 12 and 22mm offsets.
9.5 +35 = 2.3mm less inside, 27.7 more outside than the DFRs, and 16.3mm more than the CSRs - that would be about 5/8" past the wheel well. Rolled/flared fenders and/or extra camber needed to fit.
9.5 25 = 12.3mm less inside (basically 1/2 inch) and 37.3 more outside - basically an inch past the CSRs. That doesn't work.
The 10.5 + 12 sits 12.6mm less inside and 52mm past the CSRs outside - 2 inches more. NOPE
The 10.5 + 22 sits 2.6mm less inside and 26mm past the CSRs outside - 1 inch more NOPE
Keep in mind that while I used Excel for these numbers, I am an attorney because I'm bad at math LOL.
07-26-2022, 07:31 PM
Registered Member
Walk the course so you get a better idea where corners are, but keep in mind that when walking it you're seeing it from 3' or more higher than you will in the car. I think the best way to explore an autox course is on a golf cart if not an actual car, but that's usually frowned upon LOL. Some corners look different from slightly above and pointer cones get confusing.
Ride with someone else FIRST. Doesn't matter what kind of car.
When you drive it, if you can get an instructor or way more experienced driver to go with you that helps immensely. Drive your first pass about like you would at parking lot speeds. Ramp speed up when you're comfortable with the corner placement and how your car reacts to the surface changes - there will be wrinkles and gravel and camber changes you just can't see with the eye.
Being your first outing, DGAF about time, except that it should get a little faster each time. Don't go full throttle and end up (poorly) drifting the whole thing - for one, the cone ******** will hate you, and for another thing you'll have slowest time of day doing that, easy*
*does not apply if you're a pro drifter, in which case... carry on.
Ride with someone else FIRST. Doesn't matter what kind of car.
When you drive it, if you can get an instructor or way more experienced driver to go with you that helps immensely. Drive your first pass about like you would at parking lot speeds. Ramp speed up when you're comfortable with the corner placement and how your car reacts to the surface changes - there will be wrinkles and gravel and camber changes you just can't see with the eye.
Being your first outing, DGAF about time, except that it should get a little faster each time. Don't go full throttle and end up (poorly) drifting the whole thing - for one, the cone ******** will hate you, and for another thing you'll have slowest time of day doing that, easy*
*does not apply if you're a pro drifter, in which case... carry on.
Overall I had a blast and can't wait to go back with a stiffer rear sway bar and a better understanding of the car, and how to approach the course.
07-27-2022, 10:29 AM
OK. So the go-fast-crack-pipe has been hit; now time to put the brains in charge of the adrenaline and get some A. seat time B. instruction time.
Our local club used to run autocross clinics/classes where you'd spend a day on perfecting various types of elements (slalom, constant box, decreasing radius to off-camber, etc) and then day 2 was those elements put together in a full autocross course. See if you can find one of those.
Another trick - everyone says to air up your tires for an autocross. Well, you can balance the car some with tire pressure. In the RX8 I used to run 28PSI on the front tires and 35 on the rears to get the back end to step out more, until I got sway bars for it. I've used the same trick on Miatas and Ford Crown Vics (the cops came to our autocross school) and it works as a general tuning tool.
Our local club used to run autocross clinics/classes where you'd spend a day on perfecting various types of elements (slalom, constant box, decreasing radius to off-camber, etc) and then day 2 was those elements put together in a full autocross course. See if you can find one of those.
Another trick - everyone says to air up your tires for an autocross. Well, you can balance the car some with tire pressure. In the RX8 I used to run 28PSI on the front tires and 35 on the rears to get the back end to step out more, until I got sway bars for it. I've used the same trick on Miatas and Ford Crown Vics (the cops came to our autocross school) and it works as a general tuning tool.
07-29-2022, 09:32 AM
Registered Member
Anyone running HKS Hypermax IV SP, thoughts? I don't know why I have a weird obsession with trying most high end coilover brands. Already tried 3.
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SupraOfDoom (07-31-2022)
07-30-2022, 07:50 AM
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iTrader: (9)
It's your hobby. Lean in, own it and enjoy.
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abrecos (07-30-2022)
07-30-2022, 02:38 PM
I bought a new laptop few weeks ago, some hp omen turd. Realized it ran too hot (100C then throttles) for my tastes and was overkill/overpriced at $1500. Returned it.
Bought another laptop for $350 on ebay. This had lower specs but was a decent buy for the $$. It had a few sore points including the wifi. I could upgrade the memory and ssd, but wifi was 1x1 (single antenna) so limited to slower speed/range. No easy way to add a second antenna without completely tearing it down. Returned that as well. Decided to keep using my 11 year old sandy bridge laptop for the little use it actually got.
With uncertainty of the economy, better to keep the $$$ in my pocket than spend. This squashes my dreams of getting that 65" 4K tv as well.
Bought another laptop for $350 on ebay. This had lower specs but was a decent buy for the $$. It had a few sore points including the wifi. I could upgrade the memory and ssd, but wifi was 1x1 (single antenna) so limited to slower speed/range. No easy way to add a second antenna without completely tearing it down. Returned that as well. Decided to keep using my 11 year old sandy bridge laptop for the little use it actually got.
With uncertainty of the economy, better to keep the $$$ in my pocket than spend. This squashes my dreams of getting that 65" 4K tv as well.