G37 Sedan

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Old 06-16-2022, 11:55 AM
  #13861  
4DRZ
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Originally Posted by Lego_Maniac
I don't worry about metal shavings. I think Audi and Mercedes dealers both use the extraction method.
I didn't either until I saw what the magnet was collecting. I would much rather have oil circulating in my engine without metal shavings.

Originally Posted by rotarymike
I duct-tape an old speaker magnet to the bottom of the oil filter - the shavings will stay there (if any) until the next oil change. Also - bearing material isn't ferrous usually so the magnet thing doesn't work so well on that.

I'm content with ramps and both the OEM and ZSpeed undertrays have access doors - takes me 15 minutes. Rather than spend the money on the suction thing I'd rather buy the better ramps...
Are you talking about on your G37? Why not just get a magnetic drain plug so you don't have to mess around with duct taping magnets to your oil filter?

Originally Posted by Rochester
My Race Ramps were expensive, but years later I have zero regrets. These things are great.
Race Ramps seem great for oil changes, but not so much for swapping wheels or working on brakes. Anything else you use them for?
Old 06-16-2022, 11:59 AM
  #13862  
Rochester
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Originally Posted by 4DRZ
Race Ramps seem great for oil changes, but not so much for swapping wheels or working on brakes. Anything else you use them for?
Oh, nearly 100% for oil changes, on 3 of our cars. The only other things I can think of over the years was when I installed that diff brace, and diff gear oil changes. Also, every Springtime I run the back end up the ramps so I can clean these shiny Fast Intentions mufflers. And then there was the time I needed to rip apart rotted heat shields on my kid's car.

But yeah... oil changes.

After years of getting nothing really on a magnetic drain plug, I replaced that with the Fumoto drain valve, and used the plug on the Sentra, which also has been clean when changing oil. I think if the magnet were gooped up, I wouldn't have installed the drain valve and stuck with the magnet.
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Old 06-16-2022, 12:03 PM
  #13863  
JSolo
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The G was so easy to get up. Jack up the front, place stands or ramps, jack up rear, place stands or ramps. Done.

This new car doesn't have a front/rear jack point, only side. Need to use one of these to jack up a side at a time.


Then place stands in appropriate place. It's a bit of a pain but doable. Also, kia in their infinite wisdom thought it right to move to cartridge filters instead of spin on.
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Old 06-16-2022, 04:16 PM
  #13864  
4DRZ
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Oh, nearly 100% for oil changes, on 3 of our cars. The only other things I can think of over the years was when I installed that diff brace, and diff gear oil changes. Also, every Springtime I run the back end up the ramps so I can clean these shiny Fast Intentions mufflers. And then there was the time I needed to rip apart rotted heat shields on my kid's car.

But yeah... oil changes.

After years of getting nothing really on a magnetic drain plug, I replaced that with the Fumoto drain valve, and used the plug on the Sentra, which also has been clean when changing oil. I think if the magnet were gooped up, I wouldn't have installed the drain valve and stuck with the magnet.
Did you flush your G37 rear differential while up on ramps? I thought the plug was on the back of the differential which would make it tough to drain all the oil properly if you backed up the ramps and had the differential pointing up in the air. Maybe I am just remembering it wrong.

Originally Posted by JSolo
The G was so easy to get up. Jack up the front, place stands or ramps, jack up rear, place stands or ramps. Done.

This new car doesn't have a front/rear jack point, only side. Need to use one of these to jack up a side at a time.


Then place stands in appropriate place. It's a bit of a pain but doable. Also, kia in their infinite wisdom thought it right to move to cartridge filters instead of spin on.
That Daytona jack attachment actually looks pretty cool for jacking up the entire side of the car, but where do you put your jack stands if the jack fails- underneath the black bar? Just curious, what did you use as a front and rear jack point on the G37?
Old 06-16-2022, 04:24 PM
  #13865  
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I didn't even know there was front point. Before I got my quickjacks I would jack up the rear from the diff, and then lower it onto jackstands on the rear pinch welds. Front was always more annoying.
(btw quickjacks are the best thing ever, highly recommended)
Old 06-16-2022, 04:25 PM
  #13866  
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I place one pad just before the front wheel pinch weld. With the arms extended some, 2nd pad at about the front/rear door seam, maybe further back. The pads need to be perfectly centered under the seam to keep from pinching the side skirts which are at almost the same height as the seam itself. Instead I use a puck on each pad which gives me some leeway.

It gets more interested yet. Before this contraption will even fit under the car, I need to use another jack on the rear pinchweld to gain an inch or so clearance. Once the entire side is lifted I place jackstands under factory pinch weld locations front/rear. For an oil change I'll need more height so jack up one side (side L), place stands, then jackup the other side (side R) slightly higher, place stands, come back side L, raise to same height as side R. Crazy! Don't want to jack one side up too high first.

I'll leave the HF beam on one side and place other jack on other side just in case the jackstands fail.

Jack points: https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...ml#post2901242

G jack points were the K member (under engine) in front and diff in rear.
Old 06-16-2022, 04:26 PM
  #13867  
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Originally Posted by 4DRZ
I didn't either until I saw what the magnet was collecting. I would much rather have oil circulating in my engine without metal shavings.
That is probably expected with an STI though

In all seriousness though, it's kinda funny how different communities go about things. Extraction is the primary method in the GTI/R world. Besides, I don't think there is a magnetic plug available, since VAG uses composite oil pans and plugs, it's a single use item.

I don't they're ramps, but I have RaceRamps stacking wheel cribs. Stacked, they do 14", or you can split them and do each corner 7". Awesome product.

Old 06-16-2022, 08:12 PM
  #13868  
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Originally Posted by iCrap
I didn't even know there was front point. Before I got my quickjacks I would jack up the rear from the diff, and then lower it onto jackstands on the rear pinch welds. Front was always more annoying.
(btw quickjacks are the best thing ever, highly recommended)
Quick jacks look awesome, but for some reason I would be hesitant to be under the car with them up.

Originally Posted by Lego_Maniac
That is probably expected with an STI though
I was referring to my G37 actually. I had 3 Subarus that saw way more track work than the G, but I saw more on the magnet of the G. See something on one magnet and you will always want one.
Old 06-16-2022, 09:59 PM
  #13869  
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Originally Posted by 4DRZ
Quick jacks look awesome, but for some reason I would be hesitant to be under the car with them up.
IIRC, there was a member here who had one kick out from under the car. Fortunately he wasn't hurt.

Edit: Here's the thread.

Last edited by Selym; 06-16-2022 at 10:04 PM.
Old 06-16-2022, 10:16 PM
  #13870  
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Yeah, i remember that. I think the end result was that the jacks were not placed parallel and centered on the pinch weld. I'm very careful to double and tripple check before I lift the car that the jacks are properly lined up. Even more so after that thread came up.

But i've used them for years, in fact I have even left cars sitting on the quickjacks for weeks at a time with no issues, including a heavy honda odyssey minivan for a few days. Once the mechanical lock is engaged it's not going anywhere.
Old 06-16-2022, 10:21 PM
  #13871  
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Originally Posted by JSolo
I place one pad just before the front wheel pinch weld. With the arms extended some, 2nd pad at about the front/rear door seam, maybe further back. The pads need to be perfectly centered under the seam to keep from pinching the side skirts which are at almost the same height as the seam itself. Instead I use a puck on each pad which gives me some leeway.

It gets more interested yet. Before this contraption will even fit under the car, I need to use another jack on the rear pinchweld to gain an inch or so clearance. Once the entire side is lifted I place jackstands under factory pinch weld locations front/rear. For an oil change I'll need more height so jack up one side (side L), place stands, then jackup the other side (side R) slightly higher, place stands, come back side L, raise to same height as side R. Crazy! Don't want to jack one side up too high first.

I'll leave the HF beam on one side and place other jack on other side just in case the jackstands fail.

Jack points: https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...ml#post2901242

G jack points were the K member (under engine) in front and diff in rear.
Damn, that sounds ridiculous for an oil change. Why not just use ramps and save all the hassle?
Old 06-16-2022, 10:30 PM
  #13872  
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I'd need low profile ramps for this car. Fear of driving past the ramp edge. Ramps giving out. Can't really inspect the diff with the car on ramps.

Edit: How you going to rotate tires on ramps....?

Last edited by JSolo; 06-17-2022 at 10:02 AM.
Old 06-17-2022, 07:38 AM
  #13873  
rotarymike
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Originally Posted by 4DRZ
Are you talking about on your G37? Why not just get a magnetic drain plug so you don't have to mess around with duct taping magnets to your oil filter?
Fumoto valve.

Ramps + 2x12 in front of it should get your car up enough to not scrape going up the ramps.

Half the time I use the ramps since they're easy to get the car high enough to put jackstands under. (IE, use my fast floor jack to lift the car once up on ramps, then remove the ramp once stand in place). The fast jack doesn't fit under the G without that.
Old 06-17-2022, 09:15 AM
  #13874  
Rochester
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Originally Posted by 4DRZ
Did you flush your G37 rear differential while up on ramps? I thought the plug was on the back of the differential which would make it tough to drain all the oil properly if you backed up the ramps and had the differential pointing up in the air. Maybe I am just remembering it wrong.
I did. There's a downward grade where I did this, on the parking pad at the end of our driveway. Plus I used a plank under the front tires while the rears were going up the race ramps. In other words, I made the car as level as I possibly could given the tools and conditions.

I could have done better, but... sometimes DIY is an imperfect adventure, and hindsight is 20/20.



Old 06-17-2022, 11:30 PM
  #13875  
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Originally Posted by JSolo
I'd need low profile ramps for this car. Fear of driving past the ramp edge. Ramps giving out. Can't really inspect the diff with the car on ramps.

Edit: How you going to rotate tires on ramps....?
There's definite downsides to ramps too and fears are a valid reason not to use them. Obviously can't rotate tires on them, but for oil changes and the like just seems like it would save a bunch of work.


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