When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Felt a little nostalgic today and looked at some old pics of my G35S, while I do miss it, the 335 was a good upgrade, and now I'm just popping in to say hey and shamelessly post the 335's replacement.
I know this isn't the proper place but I wanted to come to this thread as it appears to be fairly active. I am wrapping up my brake rebuild and was curious if anyone could point me to the proper torque specs for the bolts that hold the two halves of the calipers together.... everywhere I look gives the specs for the mounting bolts but not the 4 that hold the calipers together.
I think technically you're not supposed to break the halves apart. Google similar monoblock caliper specs - the R33 and R34 used similar albeit smaller calipers; those cars are documented to heck and back.
I had them broken apart for powder coating and rebuilt them when they came back. Surprisingly the rebuild kits include the square cut O-ring that goes between the two halves. I wasn't able to find exact numbers but I used my best judgement. I used Loctite and torqued them to 55 ft/lbs for the front calipers and 40 ft/lbs for the rears.
After some google-fu I'm seeing anywhere from 55 to 75 for front monoblocks - the Porsche guys apparently like to do this too.
I think the concern is that even with the o-rings, the initial torquing of the bolts has some 'squish' on the caliper bodies that's hard to replicate once they've been broken down. YMMV - I've powdercoated calipers (for FC3S and FD3S RX7s) both by cracking the caliper open and by not (and using a ton of compressed, dried air to blow out the insides before blasting and then coating).
Regardless - they look stunning. If they don't leak, I think you're golden.
After some google-fu I'm seeing anywhere from 55 to 75 for front monoblocks - the Porsche guys apparently like to do this too.
I think the concern is that even with the o-rings, the initial torquing of the bolts has some 'squish' on the caliper bodies that's hard to replicate once they've been broken down. YMMV - I've powdercoated calipers (for FC3S and FD3S RX7s) both by cracking the caliper open and by not (and using a ton of compressed, dried air to blow out the insides before blasting and then coating).
Regardless - they look stunning. If they don't leak, I think you're golden.
Thanks for your help and yes this is my first time breaking calipers apart. All my previous rebuilds have been done with spray can paint jobs. I would have done the same with these Akebonos but I didn't have any luck stripping them so I needed them blasted, and with that also splurged on the powder coating.
I also took my time and cleaned and dried the calipers multiple times over the course of a week (during this time I was waiting on taps to clean out the threads on mounting ears) before I started the rebuild. This whole process was something I didn't rush, I would only work a couple hours a night on them, but they're on the car now and I haven't seen/felt any leaks. When I ceramic coat them this weekend I will double check the torque and see if I have any leaks. Thanks again for going out of your way to help find specs. Also I should have guessed by your name that you had more than one RX-7, which was your favorite?
Also I should have guessed by your name that you had more than one RX-7, which was your favorite?
...Yes?
To date I've had 2 FBs, 8 or 9 FCs, and 1 RX8. I'm not a huge fan of the FD but my best friend has and tracks one - I've been through that car as many times as he has I'm sure.
Favorite car overall - Convertible FC with turbo drivetrain. Followed closely by the RX8. My 1985 with 6-port 12A was pretty fun too.
The RX8 motor was solid but the ancillary systems were Ford trash, and it stranded me a bunch of times. Dead alternators, dead fuel pump(s), broken tie rods. Otherwise, it was the best sorted-out of the rotary cars and the easiest to live with as a daily.
Chris fix is very legit and I been following him for a while and I actually use the same kit was recommended. Keep in mind that the reason that our a/c run all the time in the full auto mode because there is small hole in a/c pully/ clutch assembly allowed to tiny amount of refrigerant with oil to escape thus providing lubrication to a/c clutch and keep seal on it intact. That why is not recommended to manually shut a/c even at winter time. I am actually HVAC pro and work in the field since 2005. If you want to correctly charge your a/c system then you should do this when is relatively hot outside,over 85-90 degrees to prevent a chance of overcharge. Get the kit,it's available at any auto store or Wal-Mart,turn your car engine on turn a/c all the way to 30 degrees in recirculation mode then open the hood remove plastic cover from brake master cylinder and there you will find a/c aluminum line with low/suction side access port with green color cap on it. Remove cap and push end of the hose from recharge kit on the port until its securely attached. Monitor gauge reading if it's in the white area then push on the handle and add refrigerant until it needle on the gauge somewhere in the middle of green zone,do not approach yellow or red zone. I highly recommend to do check your a/c pressure at least a once in year using gauges from recharge kit to keep it running like it should because like I mentioned a small amount of refrigerant with oil escape constantly to keep a/c clutch properly lubricated .let me know if you have any questions.
04-29-2022, 11:05 AM
slammed on duckfeet, FTW
