RobC7

I wouldn't lose sleep over it, however I would change it as oil degrades over time and you want to avoid access moisture.

BULL

Well it's time for new front brakes again
I tried to get away last year by replacing rotors with Centrics and flattened my old centric pads but over 4 month later I was warping again.
This time I'm thinking about buying a new set of Centric rotors and pads then resurfacing my old rotors for spares.
I have a buddy that will resurface rotors but needs to be on his time and I daily my car. I just can't take the warp anymore.

Lastly It seems like my slow water leak is coming from the glass and not the sunroof vents

So about $600 on just brakes and glass.

rotarymike

iTrader: (4)

I'd see if you have an OReilly's in the area - they turn rotors in house while you wait. $15 or so. I'd also try new pads - it's VERY unlikely you're actually warping the rotor, more like leaving pad deposits. That combo shouldn't hurt TOO bad.

The water leak - man, I drove my car for over a year with no interior after it got flooded out in Matthew; I feel you. FWIW, a simple thing to try before you reroute the front sunroof drains is to just clamp them shut along the A-pillars. It will force the water to drain out the rear drain hoses (which rarely are an issue). Doesn't look too cool driving with no A-pillar trim and a hemostat on each side, but it works to troubleshoot.

Another spot to check is where the bottom cowling around the windshield sits - there's supposed to be a felt gasket between cowling and windshield that keeps rain from running straight down into the HVAC blower housing. You might want to pull that trim and weather-strip it with RTV when reassembling.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Google "myth of warped rotors" for more info.

I gave up railing against the wind years ago, and just came to accept the phrase "warped rotors" as something that describes the situation, and not something literal.

rotarymike

iTrader: (4)

Fair enough. The single-thickness non-vented rotors on my wife's Saturn or the early 1st gen RX7s would definitely warp - you could see the runout on the lathe prior to cutting them. But with a vented (IE, cast two-surface) rotor... especially ours, whether the small or large brakes... would take a level of force that would likely destroy other components as well.

This is why I'm picky on my brake pads. Honestly, these Hawk 5.0 get one more brake system bleed to sharpen up or they're going to be replaced. Too much mush, even though they do stop well. Pedal feel sucks.

SonicVQ

Understood...
My original 11 year old, 115,000 mile rotors are "warped" and I will be using a deflection gauge to understand "warped" vs thickness variation vs pad deposition... once my garage get above 50F

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

I hear you, Mike. Conventional wisdom makes it easy to accept the idea that rotors are "warped" when the brakes start oscillating.

But the phrase "conventional" doesn't imply inherent truth, that's always been a misnomer. Actually its an extension of the word "convenience". In other words, wisdom born of convenient logic, not empirical evidence.

That said, if you can prove otherwise, that's cool. I'm not married to the idea, LOL

BULL

Based off the many rotors I've seen in my life get cut they definitely loose their straightness. You usually see this a lot more in automatics being that 98% of folks keep the brakes on while waiting for a light/traffic/etc.
In S. FL is actually pretty common due to traffic and sporadic rains, going through puddles will introduce water to a hot rotor and warp it. For automatics sitting in a light for 3 minutes forcing contact to a hot rotor thus keeping the heat concentrated on this part of the rotor while the rest cools is another reason. Maybe the word warped is incorrect however there is surface distortion.

For the experiment, things like climate, drive train type, rotor/pad quality and driving patterns will need to be taken into consideration. Seeing a rotor in a lathe where the hub is in perfect condition but you can visually see the braking surface of the rotor wobble is pretty common and has been for decades. You are able to visually tell if it's a pad issue however once they glaze, distortion is inevitable which is why new/freshy cut need to have a rough surface somewhere between 40-120grit in comparison.
This finish will help grab pad material and expel it as it leaves the pad. Too fine of a finish will clog the rotor and glaze it, too rough of a surface will kill the pads prematurely.

I've gotten away with resurfacing pads in the past but this last time it was my own damn fault, Rushing, not caring, blah.

PS the water leak is coming from the cracked windshield, did a water test focusing a stream on the cracked areas and not the roof and saw drips inside the car. Good thing I have the money for the glass however need to make sure other things are fixed first. I dont want to crack a new glass.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Money for the glass?

BULL

Front windshield has always been cracked, it started with a crack by the bottom close to the wiper arm and progressed. In the crash, the hood flew open and added some extra lines as well as a concentrated hit by the driver's side made by the corner of the hood and it seems like this is the spot I'm getting water from.
I did do the straw in the drains and stopped the passenger's side leak. My only leak is by the foot rest. Discovered that garden hose focused only on the windshield gave me drips.

As far as the money went, I set out a crash fixing budget already appointing $300 for a windshield. Since I'm a skeptic I want to make sure the car is aligned and that I feel comfortable prior to installing the glass.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

So you don't have comprehensive insurance on the car? Just liability?

BULL

For as long as I can remember in FL you'd need a specific policy that will cover the windshield. I learned this when the glass cracked on my wife's Toyota with full coverage.

The G is staying as liability, as many times as this car has been wrecked getting anything more than that is a waste in my opinion. With anything more than liability they would take the car/give me crap money for it/ask an insane amount to buy it back.

If the history of the car was a bit cleaner I would but, this car has been a Hoe

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

I've been bouncing around trying to look that up. If there were once a specific "windshield" policy, I don't think there is one anymore in Florida, and I think that changed in 2021, if I'm picking up the info correctly. If you have Comprehensive Insurance on top of your Liability policy, then windshields are replaced or repaired for free.

But no comp, no windshield. That's pretty much a given everywhere.

BULL

I gave up on it years ago, other than the G most of quotes I've gotten for windshields in the past have been pretty affordable, in the end it would be more cost effective to pay for the part than the insurance.

mike81

. Love your tail lights on that G how did you do that?