Originally Posted by hexotic

Look what I got . Was just gathering dust if my friends garage. Randomly gave it to me since he didn't need it. Now my G gets a brand new mishimoto oil catch can.

Originally Posted by Gregor12

+1^ I wouldn't install that on your G though. Very bad for our cars. Send it to me and I'll recycle it for you

Originally Posted by Gregor12

Let me ask you guys this. When you go to the Doctor and they diagnose you with something, do you argue your point and then go google your symptoms to try and solve your issue yourself? Lol no. Didn't think so.

Originally Posted by pledes23

Hey for my 6MT folks who upgraded their front end links when you installed your sways, what type of links did you end up going with? I've come across nothing other than SPL for RWD.

The reason for my inquiry is because I upgraded my front links to the SPL's and even though I've lubric6ated the bearings as recommended I'm still getting squeaking noises from them. I've 100% confirmed with my two mechanics that is where the noise is coming from.

If you do have the SPL's and are coming coming across this issue, what do you use for lubrication? If you have a different type of end link, could you please forward this info as well? I confirmed with Whiteline that they do not carry these for RWD.

Thanks in advance.

Originally Posted by Gregor12

This is not an opinion. It is a fact. The Dyno does not lie!

Originally Posted by Rochester

BTW, I got spanked yesterday by an Altima SE 3.5 who rolled on me before I decided to play. But then, I'm old and my car is slow...

Originally Posted by Gregor12

I assume this was referring to me since I used the "VQ God" term the other day... Whether it was or not doesn't matter.

Let me ask you guys this. When you go to the Doctor and they diagnose you with something, do you argue your point and then go google your symptoms to try and solve your issue yourself? Lol no. Didn't think so. So yes. When someone TUNES these cars for a living, and actually knows what in the hell they're talking about when it comes to mods... You bet your *** I'm going to believe them. The but Dyno is pure bull****. You guys speak of "un-tuned" power and tuned power. What you do not understand is that's our Ecu's are adaptive to a certain point. Our Ecu's have a target a/f ratio that they try and stick too. Our sedans seem to be at 11.5 which is rich as hell. So say you install some kind of aftermarket exhaust component that allows you to move more air in and out of the engine. Your computer will pick up on this and increase the duty cycle of the injectors to account for the increased air flow maintaining the target mixture. This results in a larger amount of air/fuel mixture in your combustion chamber which results in a stronger explosion making more power. Now, the real question is, how can you increase flow and where should you start? Would it be the catalyst? Would it be the intakes? Would it be the cat back? Which one is the most restrictive? Well that would be your dual 1.6 inch catback. What's the point of removing the cats and then keeping such a small tubing diameter throughout the rest of the car. Yes you'll gain power but then the exhaust will restrict your test pipes... Oh, and dont forget your y-pipe that's even worse...it's common sense to start with the biggest problem. Mod for mod can go round and round since different brands yield different results as well. Just change it all and get it tuned if you want to want to maximize your performance while staying NA. You guys just expect the TP's to net you more gains because that's what you've been told or heard. When it comes to the Z's that have free flowing exhausts, test pipes are a great addition. But not to our sedans. Because our cat back exhaust is where we lose power, plain and simple.

Originally Posted by Gregor12

Also, I learned a lot while working with the engineering and quality control department at cataler of North America. Which makes the catalysts for Toyota, GM, and Subaru. A catalyst is nothing more than a clay type honeycomb structure that creates a chemical reaction once it reaches a certain temp. THats why they're close to the motor. That's where it gets the hottest. Notice during a cold start the exhaust fumes are abnormally strong and smell like you don't even have cats. Well that's because the catalyst hasn't reached the necessary temp to begin its chemical reaction. The whole point is to make the catalyst efficient to where it's not very restrictive while still completing the chemical reaction. You can extend the catalyst and use a less restrictive honey comb that will flow well but still do its job and omit the unwanted elements. So to assume that a catalyst is the most restrictive exhaust component just because it's a catalyst is nothing more than a uneducated guess. That's all I have to say about the whole test pipe vs cat back argument. It's been Dyno proven as well. Numbers don't lie. Change it all and get your air/fuel mixture right with a good tune. Staying stock is for quitters.

Originally Posted by Rochester

BTW, I got spanked yesterday by an Altima SE 3.5 who rolled on me before I decided to play. But then, I'm old and my car is slow...

Originally Posted by ColumbiaSkinny

Meh, if you two were running a 1/4 mile race, you would have caught up to him and passed him even if he did roll you. The Altima is pretty quick off the line due to the gear ratio in it's front wheel drive. I jumped a M3 out the hole in my '03 Altima SE 3.5 one morning on my way to Hardees, but he crept up on me and passed me like i was standing still....

Originally Posted by VIVID

Actually, I do. But you have the order backwards. I don't argue UNTIL I Google and/or get another opinion that indicates a different treatment plan. Doctors (and tuners) are still just people and they can be wrong. In fact they both are wrong with regularity. I needn't quote the number of mis-diagnosis a year by doctors. I don't have numbers for an ECU tuner, but I'm assuming they have somewhat less education and experience in their given field than doctors. But the point is: one must be their own self-advocate. To 'avert your gaze and nod yes' is not looking out for one's self.

Sean

Originally Posted by Rochester

Oh come on, man. That's such a blanket statement about something built on a foundation of variables. It's like saying guns don't kill people.

Here, this is a fun C&D read: Is Your Dyno Lying? - Feature - Car and Driver

Now I'm not trolling you, buddy, and I'm not picking sides in a bar stool drag race, although that would be fun and I think I would win. All I'm saying is there are more things in heaven and earth, Gregor, than are dreamt of in your philosophy. (And yes, that admonishment applies in both directions. I'm well aware of that here.)

At the end of the day, here's what you know: you have dyno runs that show a 24 peak WHP gain after installing an aftermarket catback. If I were you, I'd be freaking ecstatic, with new found bragging rights that are positively awesome. However, based on that moment of bliss, should you be drawing incontrovertible conclusions that run counter to convention or consensus opinion? Well, maybe so, particularly if you've 3rd party expertise to establish faith in. Faith is a powerful thing, to be sure.

IDK... you do whatever you want, man. It's just a car forum. And this is all in good fun.

BTW, I got spanked yesterday by an Altima SE 3.5 who rolled on me before I decided to play. But then, I'm old and my car is slow...

Originally Posted by blnewt

Good stuff Gregor!
There is one FACT after adding my TPs, my slip light comes on when shifting from 1st to 2nd @6500rpm at WOT and didn't before

Originally Posted by blnewt

Good stuff Gregor!
There is one FACT after adding my TPs, my slip light comes on when shifting from 1st to 2nd @6500rpm at WOT and didn't before

Originally Posted by Nico-derm

Sounds like you need new rubber