RexHavoc

iTrader: (7)

I'm an AT guy but I vote STS because I want to see how your boot stitching comes out.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Hmm. I forgot about that. Good point.

Actually, the larger point is that the STS would indirectly bring about a visual change to the cabin, along with a tactile change to the shifter interface, all because of the shift ****... which I could do with just the NISMO Shift **** all by its lonesome, STS notwithstanding.

Incidentally, this may be the one and only place in all of existence where an automatic G37 Sedan is in the minority.

RexHavoc

iTrader: (7)

It might be worth experimenting with just the shift **** prior to committing to the STS? Definitely possible that just that minor change will be where you want visually and otherwise. (Or it could be like the Hurst T handle shifter which spun on me and damn near broke my knuckles on the dash of my LeMans)

I definitely do feel outnumbered but I'm glad I've been accepted. (Kinda like having to take your little brother to the mall with you I guess?)

'11G37S

iTrader: (4)

From these two posts I would do the STS, but since you want to get the Nismo shift **** I would buy the parts needed for the STS and the Nismo **** then when your wife asks what you want for your birthday/fathers day/anniversary just tell her you want to have it installed.

Just a thought.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

John, I must admit, at least when you plan mods for your car it leaves plenty of time to butter-up the wife. My wife has new butter on top of old butter when I get those mod bugs that don't stop biting

BTW Rex I'm an AT guy too, but only because my heavily buttered wife gets the say for HER DD

RexHavoc

iTrader: (7)

LOL! Keep buttering! He does plan well ahead doesn't he? Fortunately or unfortunately I only have to convince myself and I'm pretty easy to convince. There's a pile of parts all over the house and still a tire in my office.

I knew you were an AT guy, I actually may be reaching out for you again. Having an issue getting my center console out. I think the FSM answered some questions but I'm still not 100% clear yet. Trying to avoid hearing crraaaaack

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Are you trying to remove the section under the shifter, or the padded armrest console? If it's the panel under the shifter a very small screwdriver in the lower left corner will get you started, after you've already removed the shift ****. I used a flimsy "fake" credit card against the pebbled black plastic to keep it from getting dinged up by the screwdriver. Like I metioned in my trim thread, I really hate removing any interior trim pieces, all the clips and Pawls are just so brittle and always seem like your too close to breaking everything

Luckily all the trim pieces I've dealt w/ in the G seem to pop off pretty easily, the only real fight I had was removing that little washi piece to the left side of the steering wheel, that was a be-atch.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

That's actually a very good thought. **** first, before the STS. I can probably coerce my mechanic into loosening or removing the OEM **** when he installs the RHF cats.

I like that plan.

When Choman was in my car, we were discussing the shift ****. As I was describing how to remove the panel, I grabbed the back edge, popped it up and loose. He jumped out of his seat in shock.

It was pretty funny.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

I would probably do the STS.

What about the clutch is making you consider the rjm assembly?

RexHavoc

iTrader: (7)

I was able to get the section under the shifter to pop "right out" by digging my fingers in and pulling up. In the front though under the climate control there is a small piece which appears to be a finisher piece that has me a little concerned. It looks and feels like it needs to come out in order to get the complete shifter section up and out to where I can start unclipping things but, as you mentioned, it looks and feels so brittle I'm concerned about snapping it. I read the FSM and it seemed to say, just take it off. I'll try again when I'm not sitting in the dark, maybe I'm just missing something.

I looked at that piece that was giving you a hassle. That might be the piece that keeps my wood trim in place!

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Nothing, actually. I replaced the pedal return spring with jsolo's low-compression spring last year, and absolutely love the change. Best $20 I ever spent. So based on that improvement, I'm assuming the RJM pedal assembly would be even that much better. Seems that everyone who gets the assembly has only good reviews on it.

Plus, it's configurable, which means I can dial in various settings and find a configuration that I prefer best. IDK, Lego, it's a mod, the price is right, I'm curious... all that. It also future-proofs against a heavier clutch (and lightweight flywheel) upgrade, should that make it to my list. It's not actually, at the moment. But could be down the road.

370Z & G37 AFP Clutch Pedal Assemblies - *RJM Performance.com

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Even though I'm leaning toward the STS in 2014, another bit of logic to prioritize the RJM assembly over the STS is availability. As a company, I suspect Stillen isn't going anywhere anytime soon (assuming I buy the Stillen STS), whereas RJM is a small operation that could disappear tomorrow.

I know that's kind of cold reasoning, but availability is a valid component when weighing options.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

Im running the same $20 return spring and agree, it is a great mod. I would be concerned the rjm assembly wouldn't provide the same return. Diminishing returns and all that.

But hey, if you've got the $, the spouse approves, and it fits your future plans, go for it!

And since someone mentioned shift *****....is there some gotcha about removing the oem ****? What are y'all 6mt guys using?

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Completely valid logic. I feel the same way, even though curiosity has the better of me.

The analogy is that jsolo's spring is a band-aid for a small cut on your arm, whereas the RJM pedal is a full-on bionic prosthetic that can only be used if you amputate the arm... all because of a little cut that is easily fixed with a band-aid.

From what I've read, you need two people. One with a long set of pipe wrench pliers under the shift boot, firmly gripping the shaft (and lined with a rubber strip so as to not damage the shaft with the teeth of the pipe wrench.) That wrench stays in place... no twisting! The second person uses a rubber strap-wrench on the ****, and turns it counter-clockwise, breaking the lock-tite seal.

I asked my dealership about it, and their techs told me they don't guarantee removal without destroying the ****.

I don't happen to have either of those tools, which is why I'll probably have my mechanic do it. Or I might just buy them at SEARS someday, and ask a friend for assistance. Never really needed either wrench my entire life, until this moment, so... I don't know.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

I used this DIY, it has some decent pics for removal, especially that piece to the left of the steering wheel, and good visual for that upper console piece.
DIY: Interior Trim Removal - G35Driver