Sedan Chat Thread
03-26-2015, 05:41 PM
#6256
Premier Member
iTrader: (7)
Rotors need to do 3 things
1) Create friction with the pads
2) Absorb heat created by #1
3) Cool down
Drilled rotors are bad at 1 and 2. While they might cool better than blanks, they need to, because they are going to be hotter since they have less mass to absorb the heat created by the pad contact during braking.
Brake cooling ducts--like are available for the 370--would do more for cooling than drilling holes in your rotor.
1) Create friction with the pads
2) Absorb heat created by #1
3) Cool down
Drilled rotors are bad at 1 and 2. While they might cool better than blanks, they need to, because they are going to be hotter since they have less mass to absorb the heat created by the pad contact during braking.
Brake cooling ducts--like are available for the 370--would do more for cooling than drilling holes in your rotor.
"There are two major types of high-performance brake rotors -- drilled and slotted. We'll discuss the drilled rotors here and move on to the slotted rotors on the next page. Drilled brake rotors, as the name implies, have holes drilled in them. Having a holes drilled into any of your brake parts may seem counterintuitive, especially the brake rotors -- after all, a rotor full of holes means that there's less surface area for the brake pads to grab and stop the car -- but there are a few reasons drilled rotors make sense.
The first is heat. When the brake pad grabs the rotor, it creates friction, which creates heat. If that heat can't escape, it leads to brake fade, which reduces the brakes' stopping power. The second reason is gas build up. This actually isn't much of a problem any more; however, the materials used in some older types of brake pads caused gas to build up between the rotors and pads. That gas also limited stopping power. The last reason is water. If a car drives through a puddle, a carwash or even a rainstorm, the brake rotors can get wet. A wet brake rotor is slippery and difficult for the brake pads to grab. Having drilled holes on a brake rotor makes it easy for heat, gas and water to be quickly moved away from the rotor surface, keeping the brake performance strong."
03-26-2015, 08:58 PM
#6258
Managing Editor Jamie Page Deaton and the U.S. News Best Cars team bring you the latest car news, deals and advice. Join the conversation — we'd love to hear from you and help you choose your new car
Sounds like a brake expert. She has some other hard hitting technical articles like
Best Cars Blog - 2015/March | U.S. News Best CarsCars_Cats_and_Canines/?src=usn_tw
Best Cars Blog - 2015/February | U.S. News Best CarsSkip_Heavy_Coats_When_Kids_are_in_Car_Seats/?src=usn_tw
Now, we're done braking and have a nice long straight for the brakes to cool down, at this point, drilled rotors might have a marginal benefit, but not enough to offset the friction or dissipated heat losses.
Less friction
Less heat dissipation
Marginally Better cooling
Drilling rotors was originally done to give the rotots a place to vent gasses that otherwise would interfere with the old asbestos pads performance. Now-a-days they are nothing more than an aesthetic mod that is a functional downgrade.
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Mik3G37S (03-26-2015)
03-26-2015, 11:24 PM
#6260
after reading numerous reviews on the leatherique, it seems like pretty much each review mentions leaving the car in the sun for several hours or even days... so I decided I'll have to hold off till we get blasted with some summer heat and go from there 
03-26-2015, 11:51 PM
#6261
Registered User
You can also heat it up in the microwave, when I bought it that is what the sale mens said and he said it would have a similar effect. You might want to call them to confirm this. I was going to try this but just haven't got around to it yet.
03-27-2015, 01:18 AM
#6263
Yeah I got graphite shadow with black interior, I will definitely take some before and after pictures, I just opted out for the combo package from amazon including the rejuvinator oil and prestine clean with spray head and "Tampico leather scrub brush"
Link :
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ADYGSX6..._TZ-evb00VKTN0
And here's the link for the TORQ foam cannon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5BUZIM..._c3-evb0JGCN13
Link :
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ADYGSX6..._TZ-evb00VKTN0
And here's the link for the TORQ foam cannon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5BUZIM..._c3-evb0JGCN13
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWlxDn-YCx0
Didn't know they used pressure washers but to apply it seems like a good idea. I don't like how close he got to the car though.
Didn't know they used pressure washers but to apply it seems like a good idea. I don't like how close he got to the car though.
^^^
Apply it now, leave it on overnight. Worse case that can happen is that it won't rejuvenate the leather as well as if it were hot. Best case, it comes out awesome. So really, you've got nothing to lose, except a portion of stupidly expensive car care product, and some down-time with the car.
Here's an idea: use your seat warmers. Turn them on for an hour or so. That might work.
Apply it now, leave it on overnight. Worse case that can happen is that it won't rejuvenate the leather as well as if it were hot. Best case, it comes out awesome. So really, you've got nothing to lose, except a portion of stupidly expensive car care product, and some down-time with the car.
Here's an idea: use your seat warmers. Turn them on for an hour or so. That might work.
You're probably right. If the guy is even a little bit familiar with pressure washers, he knows not to get it too close, regardless of pressure.
I don't take my car through the car wash, but once in a while I do go to the Touchless Laser Wash bay, which is pretty much the same kind of thing. It's does an OK job (for winter). But not nearly as good as a proper mitt & soap by hand.
I don't take my car through the car wash, but once in a while I do go to the Touchless Laser Wash bay, which is pretty much the same kind of thing. It's does an OK job (for winter). But not nearly as good as a proper mitt & soap by hand.
Well my front passenger side rotor runoff is bad causing alot of jitter/shutter and rather than resurfacing I fig now would be a great time to invest in slotted/drilled rotors...biggest question is what pads have you guys been using that's not causing any noise (squealing, screeching, etc, and 2 that are low dust? Thanks
Will be doing slotted/drilled rotors, stoptech SS lines, and the one kit I am looking at they do offer it to come with the POSI quiet performance pads
Will be doing slotted/drilled rotors, stoptech SS lines, and the one kit I am looking at they do offer it to come with the POSI quiet performance pads
They're unique in that they're both slotted and drilled but have none of the drawbacks of drilled rotors, but with all of the benefits. Now...they are pricey but they're as light and tough as you'll get with an iron rotor short of going to carbon-ceramic, which is absolutely not cost effective. I picked up a carbon GT-R rotor once and it weighed about 13 lbs. and the lightness was stunning compared to the stock unit. Sweet but not worth $17k! I digressed...back on topic.
Good thing is that you can do the fronts first and then the rears later if you choose. I've been running them for 2 1/2 years with their ET500 pad compound and have about 50,000 miles on them with zero issues. The pads still have a fair bit of life left on them and the rotors are showing no signs of wear so far. The braking performance is dramatically increased over the stock Akebono rotors. With the RB setup, the car stops on a dime and gives you 9 cents change. Under emergency braking, you get progressively more violent stopping power without overwhelming the Michelins and triggering the ABS. It's quite nice.
Two-piece Rotor Assembly - RacingBrake.com
Feature Comparison - RacingBrake.com
More details on the unique slotted and drilled combination:
http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/two_piece_compare.asp
Benefits of going to 2-piece rotors:
http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/tw...or_upgrade.asp
The RB site offers a fairly deep dive on the technicals of brake engineering and is an interesting read, even for those not in the market.
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Last edited by twin_snails; 03-27-2015 at 02:02 AM.
03-27-2015, 08:09 AM
#6265
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
$1500 catback from California - 13 weeks and counting
I was told to expect shipping notice for those pipes today. We'll see.
03-27-2015, 08:33 AM
#6266
This has been ridiculously short turnaround on the roof spoiler. The group buy ended the 18th and they've already painted and shipped it.
03-27-2015, 09:02 AM
#6267
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
When you're ready, post pics in that spoiler thread so I can see them.
03-27-2015, 09:26 AM
#6268
Sacs, you may want to check out the 2-piece rotors that Racing Brake offers. The stock Akebono front rotors are 30 lb. boat achors and the RB ones tip the scales at 22 lbs. each for a significant savings of 8 lbs. per rotor. The rears they offer are 2-piece as well and save 4 lbs. each. The rotors are made of a much harder iron material than the stock units so they're extremely tough. Like you, I had the stock rotors resurfaced by the dealer twice and they were starting to judder again. I was tired of it and broke down and got the RB kit and haven't looked back.
They're unique in that they're both slotted and drilled but have none of the drawbacks of drilled rotors, but with all of the benefits. Now...they are pricey but they're as light and tough as you'll get with an iron rotor short of going to carbon-ceramic, which is absolutely not cost effective. I picked up a carbon GT-R rotor once and it weighed about 13 lbs. and the lightness was stunning compared to the stock unit. Sweet but not worth $17k! I digressed...back on topic.
Good thing is that you can do the fronts first and then the rears later if you choose. I've been running them for 2 1/2 years with their ET500 pad compound and have about 50,000 miles on them with zero issues. The pads still have a fair bit of life left on them and the rotors are showing no signs of wear so far. The braking performance is dramatically increased over the stock Akebono rotors. With the RB setup, the car stops on a dime and gives you 9 cents change. Under emergency braking, you get progressively more violent stopping power without overwhelming the Michelins and triggering the ABS. It's quite nice.
Two-piece Rotor Assembly - RacingBrake.com
Feature Comparison - RacingBrake.com
More details on the unique slotted and drilled combination:
Disc Surface Finish - RacingBrake.com
Benefits of going to 2-piece rotors:
Two-Piece Rotor Upgrade - RacingBrake.com
The RB site offers a fairly deep dive on the technicals of brake engineering and is an interesting read, even for those not in the market.
-
They're unique in that they're both slotted and drilled but have none of the drawbacks of drilled rotors, but with all of the benefits. Now...they are pricey but they're as light and tough as you'll get with an iron rotor short of going to carbon-ceramic, which is absolutely not cost effective. I picked up a carbon GT-R rotor once and it weighed about 13 lbs. and the lightness was stunning compared to the stock unit. Sweet but not worth $17k! I digressed...back on topic.
Good thing is that you can do the fronts first and then the rears later if you choose. I've been running them for 2 1/2 years with their ET500 pad compound and have about 50,000 miles on them with zero issues. The pads still have a fair bit of life left on them and the rotors are showing no signs of wear so far. The braking performance is dramatically increased over the stock Akebono rotors. With the RB setup, the car stops on a dime and gives you 9 cents change. Under emergency braking, you get progressively more violent stopping power without overwhelming the Michelins and triggering the ABS. It's quite nice.
Two-piece Rotor Assembly - RacingBrake.com
Feature Comparison - RacingBrake.com
More details on the unique slotted and drilled combination:
Disc Surface Finish - RacingBrake.com
Benefits of going to 2-piece rotors:
Two-Piece Rotor Upgrade - RacingBrake.com
The RB site offers a fairly deep dive on the technicals of brake engineering and is an interesting read, even for those not in the market.
-
F R Premium Drill Slot Brake Rotors Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads BPK47829 | eBay
and then after the debate are now looking at these
F R Brakenetic Premium Slotted Brake Rotors Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads BPK72487 | eBay
03-27-2015, 09:52 AM
#6269
wow thank you sir for the info and links. While a 2 peice rotor would be ideal.....unfortuantely the pair for $920 is a bit out of my price range at the moment. Still unsure of what I'll be pulling the trigger on....was intitally looking at these
F R Premium Drill Slot Brake Rotors Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads BPK47829 | eBay
and then after the debate are now looking at these
F R Brakenetic Premium Slotted Brake Rotors Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads BPK72487 | eBay
F R Premium Drill Slot Brake Rotors Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads BPK47829 | eBay
and then after the debate are now looking at these
F R Brakenetic Premium Slotted Brake Rotors Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads BPK72487 | eBay
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twin_snails (03-27-2015)
03-27-2015, 10:21 AM
#6270
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
Rear window tint?
The other day I saw a Mercedes C-class with the OEM rear window spoiler. AFAIK, it's one of the only cars on the market today with that option. It looked really nice.
Very much looking forward to warmer weather, and getting my installed.
The other day I saw a Mercedes C-class with the OEM rear window spoiler. AFAIK, it's one of the only cars on the market today with that option. It looked really nice.
Very much looking forward to warmer weather, and getting my installed.