Rochester

iTrader: (9)

B2 was $200 shipped, so yeah, that's a great price for four spacers. Are those single-piece design, or extended studs?

B2 AutoDesigns is a known/trusted retailer here on the forum, so they got that going for them.

Um...

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

One piece bolt ons.

This probably sounds stupid, but I'd rather have something made in the USA vs Taiwan when it comes to something like spacers. The lifetime warranty says a lot when compared to 1 year. Nothing against B2, I got my Konis from Charles

This is all just the opinion of some dude on a car forum though

ttv36

iTrader: (1)

Right they are the rears only. I plan on getting SPL Endlinks for the front. I was going to do SPL all the way around, but when I saw these whitelines for sale I said why the heck not.

SPL Front Sway Bar End Links (370Z / G37)

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Koni is international, although they're primarily a Neatherlands company. And B2 Autodesigns is a small operation out of Tampa, Florida. Are you saying B2 spacers are made overseas? Where'd you figure that out? And I get what you're saying with regard to american money staying in the american economy... that's a personal choice regarding nationalism and values attached to that. However, you do know where the Skyline 370GT is manufactured, right?

I guess I'm not sure what you're saying, Lego. What are you saying?

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

I pm'd him and asked country of orgin...Taiwan.

Its not just American money staying in country, its manufacturing processes, quality control, etc. I'd have no problem with spacers made in Japan, or Germany, or the UK..but if my choices are Taiwan or US, I'm going to go with the ones made here. Again, its just my opinion, and I'm probably over analyzing it


Edit:

I'm saying, that if I'm shopping for a Widget, and I have the choice of a Widget A made in Taiwan, Vietnam, Cambodia, China, etc. and Widget B made in the USA, UK, Germany, Holland, Japan, etc. I'm going to choose to buy Widget B, even if it means I pay more. It's probably silly, but I'd rather support the company with higher manufacturing standards than the one paying a 14 year old kid $1000 a month over in Asia. That might be an exaggeration, but you get what I'm saying. The fact that the USA sourced spacers have a lifetime warranty, are cheaper, and are custom made in 1mm increments is just an added bonus.

And now, we've gone wayyyy off topic

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Thanks, Tony. Oh crap, those are expensive.

Daddy Fat Sacs

iTrader: (15)

B2 is in Tampa and has great products and service and yes there spacers are made in Taiwan

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Lego, how did you determine those are one-piece spacers including lugs? I don't see that on their website. It looks like you configure the spacers to specs, and they cut them custom... which is pretty awesome, in that you can get them to any mm thickness you like. If that's the case, I would go with 17mm, to split the arbitrary difference between standard 15 and 20mm thickness of off-the-shelf spacers. But I don't want to go with an extended lug design. I want the bolt-on design that has its own lugs, because I'd be taking them on and off seasonally.

Also, I just spec'd out to $180+ tax & shipping. How did you get $120?

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

Did you select Hub Centric to vehicle hub or Hub Centric to vehicle and Wheel Centric to Wheel (I selected the former)?

Maybe there is a price difference for 15 vs 17 mm?

Also, I selected Adaptor, not Spacer, which lets you select:

One Piece Adapter
One piece adapter bolts to existing hub. New wheel bolts to adapter. Hub-centric to vehicle hub. Can also be made wheel-centric to vehicle wheel (see lip on pic), at nominal extra cost. Select One Piece Adapter when spacing out the same bolt pattern to put, for example, oversize tires on the same studs and different circumference.




It's quite possible I'm missing something. I'm a spacer noob

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Adapter... Doh!

This time I went through the configurator as an Adapter. I have no idea what to pick for "Center Bore" or "Stud Size", and the minimum thickness available is 19mm. That came out to $240 + shipping + tax, for four spacers

So I still don't know how you got to $120, unless you only configured two spacers.


You and me both, buddy. Truth is, I've always downplayed wheel spacers as a viable option. It wasn't until I bought these Vossens that I started prioritizing wheel fitment... which is how I got down this rabbit hole.

God damn stupid rabbit hole, LOL.

Just dropped my kid off at Field Hockey... OMG, I love driving this car. (Had to say that again! ) Can't wait to hear next year's exhaust.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

I have no idea I'm caught in an endless loop on their site where I select 2012 then Infiniti, the page loads and Infiniti goes back to 'Make'.

I think I'm going to break down and call tomorrow.

Center bore is 66.1


Tell me about it. I arrived here because of Konis and Swifts tucking in the wheels. Then I parked next to another S sedan and it really stood out.

RexHavoc

iTrader: (7)

If you haven't bought the SPLs yet I found them for $210 shipped. $116 for the Whitelines for the rear.

ttv36

iTrader: (1)

^ Sweet! I was going to try to hold out for a Black Friday deal or something but what you found might be an option.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

Are end links really an issue with our cars? There aren't many threads on here, or on the370Z.com about broken end links. $340 for F/R seems steep

Black Betty broke his rears, but said his fronts were holding up fine

https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...end-links.html

Rock Auto has OEM replacements for $10.50 front and rear. I've been on Eibach sways for over a year and don't have an issue--at least yet! Having broken end links on my old Mazda 6s, you'll certainly know when one dies. You could do a lot of end link replacing at $10.50 a pop, especially considering there aren't many cases of broken end links.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

The only reason I'm considering end-links for next Spring is because my suspension has been lightly but consistently groaning when crawling over little bumps, like my driveway/garage. Since this started after lowering on Swifts, and taking into account that I re-lubed the swaybar bushings this Spring, I suspect it's my end-links complaining about having Eibach sways when lowered. IDK man, what do you think it is?

As for being $10.50 a pop... that wouldn't include the labor costs, because I'm not going to do the work.

Honestly, Lego, I don't know... (broken record). Having lowered the car while also using aftermarket sways, this comes under the heading of feeling like the right and responsible thing to do.

As for Black Betty... He's a good Mod on the forum, so we're lucky to have someone like that step up and be responsible. And he certainly seems more knowledgeable than most people here. However, he also dishes out heavy-handed opinions as if they were immutable facts, which is a personality trait better taken with grain of salt instead of blind faith. I suppose you could say the same thing of me, but not on the same level.

blah blah blah psychological BS, LOL

OK, here's my idea (du jour): instead of playing at Keyboard Mechanic, I'll let my actual mechanic assess things next Spring when he installs the cat-back and tips. I don't know why I didn't think of that earlier. That makes so much more sense.