G37 Sedan

Sedan Chat Thread

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Old 05-22-2014, 08:55 AM
  #2746  
Lego_Maniac
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Originally Posted by WhiteG_6MT
My clutch stuck to the floor about a year ago. After attempting to fix myself by draining, replacing fluid, then bleeding (used a generic DOT4 fluid) it lost pressure again within a half hour.

The dealership fixed it under warranty. They told me that the fluid had boiled and that this was a known issue due to routing of the clutch fluid line near the exhaust or some such.

The fix, and it has fixed it, was for the dealer to use a special Nissan Racing DOT4 fluid that would resist the heat -- ie not boil and aerate.

No problems with the clutch since.

However, I did start noticing a grind going into 5th gear a while back.

I brought the car to the dealer again last Tuesday. They called me on Wednesday and said "you need a new transmission".

So, I got a new trans, a new slave cylinder, and a new throwout bearing installed at no cost.

The new trans shifts like butter compared to the last one.

Anybody who is under warranty and is getting any sort of grinding while shifting should report that immediately IMO and get it resolved before the warranty expires.

The service adviser told me that when they drained the MT fluid from my old trans, that it had a lot of metal shavings in it. I think the 5th gear syncro was starting to disintegrate.

Heads' up MT drivers!
Interesting. When car and driver wrecked their 370Z they contributed it to pads and fluid with a low boiling point, so there may be some merit to your dealers claim.

Would this be covered by the extended powertrain warranty?

Keep us posted Rochester.
Old 05-22-2014, 09:19 AM
  #2747  
Mik3G37S
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Originally Posted by '11G37S

Man... that sucks... glad you were able to pull into a parking spot safely. Are you going to have it taken to Circle Infiniti and request loaner car #10?
Dammit, thought noone would mention this again lol
Old 05-22-2014, 11:06 AM
  #2748  
Dough1397
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Sorry to hear about that Rochester. You'll be covered under warranty for sure, if not fight it.

The CSCs are known to fail and you might want to inquire with your dealer if they would be willing to install an aftermarket part (ZSpeed HD CSC) that you supply and claim the labor under warranty. It's worth a shot considering the OEM CSC will likely bite the dust again.

Many people and ZSpeed recommend replacing the master cylinder at the same time as the CSC. I believe the train of thought here is that the fluid is contaminated with CSC crud/seals and it affects the seals on the master cylinder.

Also, I believe the reason they recommend DOT 4 fluid over the original DOT 3 that was in the system is that the clutch hose passes right by the driver's side cat, these things get hot and will heat up your fluid. DOT 4 generally boils at a higher temperature and thus gives you more margin before your clutch begins to feel spongy.

My dealer forgot to move the stock insulation over the ZSpeed HD CSC stainless line that that passes by the cat, I am pretty sure this is why my clutch feels different (might even describe it as crappy) after long drives. Little pissed off about this, but I'll fix it up this weekend
Old 05-22-2014, 11:30 AM
  #2749  
nishfish871
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Welcome to the forum. And you're scaring me, man.

I have 9 months left on my 4/40 warranty, but 32 months left on my bank note.
Isn't bumper to bumper 4/60??
Old 05-22-2014, 12:09 PM
  #2750  
Rochester
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Originally Posted by nishfish871
Isn't bumper to bumper 4/60??
Oh. Right. Welp, doesn't really matter in my case with only 18K miles on my 2011.

And I just heard back from the dealership. They confirmed that the clutch slave cylinder blew out, as suspected. The new CSC won't be in until tomorrow, which is a moot point since I'm going out of the country on vaca.

As far as frequency, he said that in the 16 years he's been working at this dealership, he's only ever seen this happen once, on a 350Z. So while the problem may be "common" as seen from the POV of online enthusiasts from all over the world and a decade of comments... in the real world, not so much.
Old 05-22-2014, 12:35 PM
  #2751  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Oh. Right. Welp, doesn't really matter in my case with only 18K miles on my 2011.

And I just heard back from the dealership. They confirmed that the clutch slave cylinder blew out, as suspected. The new CSC won't be in until tomorrow, which is a moot point since I'm going out of the country on vaca.

As far as frequency, he said that in the 16 years he's been working at this dealership, he's only ever seen this happen once, on a 350Z. So while the problem may be "common" as seen from the POV of online enthusiasts from all over the world and a decade of comments... in the real world, not so much.
Tough luck J, but at least you can get away and chill, and when you get back it'll all be good again. Have a blast man!
Old 05-22-2014, 12:41 PM
  #2752  
connoisseurr
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Maybe it blew out because your clutch didn't get enough attention! AKA DRIVE YOUR G MOAR! :P
Old 05-22-2014, 01:31 PM
  #2753  
Dough1397
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Oh. Right. Welp, doesn't really matter in my case with only 18K miles on my 2011.

And I just heard back from the dealership. They confirmed that the clutch slave cylinder blew out, as suspected. The new CSC won't be in until tomorrow, which is a moot point since I'm going out of the country on vaca.

As far as frequency, he said that in the 16 years he's been working at this dealership, he's only ever seen this happen once, on a 350Z. So while the problem may be "common" as seen from the POV of online enthusiasts from all over the world and a decade of comments... in the real world, not so much.
In regards to frequency, I don't buy it. This problem seems to affect every member on the forum. Perhaps people are getting the work done elsewhere.
Old 05-22-2014, 01:56 PM
  #2754  
Lego_Maniac
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Originally Posted by Dough1397
In regards to frequency, I don't buy it. This problem seems to affect every member on the forum. Perhaps people are getting the work done elsewhere.
People dont join forums to say there is nothing wrong with their car.
Old 05-22-2014, 02:22 PM
  #2755  
ZOSTER33
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Originally Posted by warped ideas
Nope, it's because I drive like an @Ashley sometimes.... And I have been trying to justify it for a while. LOL
Have you looked into, say, Stoptech BBK, Willwood, Project Mu, Futura Brakes, etc. besides the Akebono/Infiniti ones?
Old 05-22-2014, 02:43 PM
  #2756  
ZOSTER33
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Originally Posted by Lego_Maniac
People dont join forums to say there is nothing wrong with their car.
There's nothing wrong with my car and I bought it brand new in 2010 with like 3 miles on the odometer....knock on wood! I have 62,000 miles on it already.
Old 05-22-2014, 03:01 PM
  #2757  
Rochester
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Originally Posted by ZOSTER33
There's nothing wrong with my car and I bought it brand new in 2010 with like 3 miles on the odometer....knock on wood! I have 62,000 miles on it already.
As long as basic maintenance is applied, and the car isn't abused (much), I strongly believe most of today's cars are like this.

Originally Posted by Lego_Maniac
People dont join forums to say there is nothing wrong with their car.
Exactly. Also, there are a disproportionate number of 6MT owners on the car forums than there are in the real world.
Old 05-22-2014, 03:24 PM
  #2758  
original sin
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Thanks for the tips everyone:
Just got them installed:
4N907
Old 05-22-2014, 04:24 PM
  #2759  
Mik3G37S
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So I'm getting something I have wanted for a while - midnight tails ( painted on the inside) with evil iron man leds and custom turn signal, the question is what tools will I need to remove the tailights, I know it must be easy just never really removed mine yet, so I wouldn't know what tools I'll need. Any help is appreciated, thanks.
Old 05-22-2014, 04:29 PM
  #2760  
blnewt
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Originally Posted by Mik3G37S
So I'm getting something I have wanted for a while - midnight tails ( painted on the inside) with evil iron man leds and custom turn signal, the question is what tools will I need to remove the tailights, I know it must be easy just never really removed mine yet, so I wouldn't know what tools I'll need. Any help is appreciated, thanks.
Here you go Mike, real easy, only hitch is the reverse lights are also held on w/ sticky foam, just need to be firm w/ pulling it up, and try not to tear it up so you can reuse it. Now as far as separating the housing, that's not going to be as much fun from what I can tell. Might be a good idea to take some pics of that part and share w/ us for a future DIY (hint hint).
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...aillights.html


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