HELP - Test pipe install
#1
HELP - Test pipe install
Just got a set of Invidia test pipes on sale and can't wait to install them. Talked to my shop and they quoted me around $200 for the install, that's more than what I paid for the pipes lol?!
Decided to try and tackle it myself with some buddies at their shop. Everything went very smoothly until the top bolts... imagine that. Starting on the passenger side, driver side hasn't been attempted at all. Anyways, PB blaster was used often and generously, first using 1/2" we tried breaker bar with cheater bar, no luck. Next tried with the impact, still nothing... Put it all back together and took it to a reputable exhaust shop. Said they would remove the two bolts no problem, just leave a nice tip. A few minutes later they say they can't get it and the bolt is starting to round off (nice thanks.) Looks like it was cross threaded from the factory he says. He would either have to cut it off or weld another nut and use a torch. They wanted $125 just to remove these two bolts! So now I'm looking for advice, I'd like to handle it myself since only two bolts stand in my way and I can't see spending $125-200 for these two bolts. What else can I try, any new tricks? I think I've read every thread here on the subject and seems like they should be off by now but no... Or do I just need to let an expensive shop handle it?
Thanks all
Decided to try and tackle it myself with some buddies at their shop. Everything went very smoothly until the top bolts... imagine that. Starting on the passenger side, driver side hasn't been attempted at all. Anyways, PB blaster was used often and generously, first using 1/2" we tried breaker bar with cheater bar, no luck. Next tried with the impact, still nothing... Put it all back together and took it to a reputable exhaust shop. Said they would remove the two bolts no problem, just leave a nice tip. A few minutes later they say they can't get it and the bolt is starting to round off (nice thanks.) Looks like it was cross threaded from the factory he says. He would either have to cut it off or weld another nut and use a torch. They wanted $125 just to remove these two bolts! So now I'm looking for advice, I'd like to handle it myself since only two bolts stand in my way and I can't see spending $125-200 for these two bolts. What else can I try, any new tricks? I think I've read every thread here on the subject and seems like they should be off by now but no... Or do I just need to let an expensive shop handle it?
Thanks all
#2
That's odd that you nor the shop could get them lose. I had problems with those too but with a breaker bar I just snapped the bolts in half and slid the test pipes off. Have you tried just using all your strength and breaking the bolts or are the heads of the bolts stripped?
#3
Did you use a hex socket, or the multi-point star socket? You should have used a metric 6 sided socket to remove the bolts. If you or your shop used imperial sockets, then it will almost definitely round the **** out of those bolts.
#4
The bolt head is not completely stripped, but is on it's way there due to the exhaust shop. We only tried the first time with the breaker bar, everything since then has been with an impact. Maybe we need to try the breaker bar/cheater bar and just try breaking the bolts?? I don't want to strip the heads more to where I can't get a bite at all.
#5
Friends an I used 6 point sockets, unsure what the shop used. Guessing they didn't if they started rounding the heads.
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#8
The bolt is not threaded into the catalytic converter. If it were you would be correct, butthe only place it could break and not release would be if you somehow twisted the bolt head itself in half. I've never even heard of that happening, so I think you're good!
#13
I'm talking about the top inside bolt, the one you have to get from the engine bay after disconnecting the steering rack knuckle. It took me 3 extensions and 2 universal joints to get that sucker broken out. I think laid out it was 40 something inches of extension.
#15