In my experience, battery life has little to do with the miles on the car. More about age than anything else. And I would say that at 4 - 5 years old, it's time. Here in Colorado they typically don't last that long.

 

Might as well get a nice new one, I agree, it's time...

 

Sounds like a dead battery. I found it to be annoying to change the battery on this car, epecially that little hook holding it down.

 

Sorry for the delay in updating the thread, I've been busy at work.

Dealer said he cannot apply the the TSB as my car is out of factory warranty.
Dealer replaced the battery with one with higher CCA ( billed me for it, of course). Checked the Vent Control Valve and confirmed that it is good.

Car has been fine after the battery replacement, its been just 2 days though.

Thank you all for your responses.

 

I had a situation with my car earlier this summer -- the car would not turn over at all, no noises, lights out... and then later started up just fine. The batter tested fine at the dealership. I drove off, only to encounter the same behaviour again. It turned out the aftermarket battery's posts were slightly two narrow, and the connection was slightly loose, which caused the intermittent behaviour. (Apparently the cable bracket was more affected by thermal expansion than the battery posts were, since until the I had not had any problems since I had bought the car in the winter.)

Since you are getting ticking though, it does sound like your batter simply needs to be replaced though.

 

I had my battery go dead on me on Monday morning. Had to get AAA to come out and give me a jump start. The tech tested my battery and it said to replace. He told me that I should get the battery with 700 cranking amps. I'm still under warranty. I have 53K on the odometer and it will expire in Oct 2013. I had the dealer apply the tsb to my car. At first they wanted to prorate the battery, but I told him that I meet the tsb guidelines. The fact that my ecm had already been updated and the valve control did not need to be replaced was not making sense to the dealer. I showed the service advisor the flow chart and since my VIN fell within the given range I got a new 700 cranking amp battery for free. They were ready to charge me for the battery. Had I not shown him the tsb I would have been charged. Thanks to this awesome forum for all the helpful information. For those of you under warranty don't let yourself get stuck with the bill.

 

Were you guys who were out of warranty still under powertrain? My dealer did my 08 completely gratis under powertrain. I had called to check with them about replacing the battery myself and coming in to pay for the rest of the work if necessary, and the SA insisted I bring it in and let them take care of it

-edit - oops, forgot, mine's a coupe though, so maybe that's why

 

It's fairly simple to replace the battery yourself, i wasn't under warranty. It took maybe 20 minutes. You can find a DIY somewhere thats how i did it.

 

I wasn't fussed about changing the battery myself, just worried that if it needed the TSB fix it would kill the new one. My car already had an aftermarket battery when I bought it used, so I figured that was what was killing all the batteries at such low mileage. That's why I checked with the dealer before I just tossed a new one in. I figured I'd have to buy the battery, then pay for the rest of the TSB work since I'm out of basic warranty if a Die Hard Platinum didn't fix the issue.

 

On my 2009 Sedan I had Advance Auto Parts replace the battery in April 2012 after it died suddenly, without any indication of being weak. About 10 days ago the car would occasionally turn over very slowly and a couple of times the battery needed a jump. Took the car back to Advance and they tested it - said the battery was good but possibly the car was not charging it. Took it to the dealer yesterday. Told me there was a TSB but they couldn't apply it with the aftermarket battery. I told them I can't live with the risk of a dead battery when I'm out and about so go ahead and replace it. So they replaced it, replaced a control valve assembly, and re-programmed the ECU. Cost me $191 with tax. If your car is under warranty with these symptoms don't replace the battery until you have the dealer check it. I think it's bull that they had to replace the battery with one of theirs but I had no choice. I'm sure my battery was fine.

 

Is your car still under factory warranty?