'11G37S

iTrader: (4)

I had taken my G in to have the oil changed, they sent out a oil change for $15.99 coupon in the mail, and when I got my G back they gave me a list of services that my baby "needed". I know the dealership loves to throw in services that aren't really "needed".

First a little background on my car. I have an '09 that I bought in June with 32k miles on the clock, I just hit 40k yesterday. I was able to get them to CPO my car for free by throwing it in the deal. Well the services they wanted me to do included; rear differential fluid flush and change ($200+), transmission fluid flush and change ($250), front differential fluid flush and change ($150), AWD service ($250), coolant flush and change, and a couple of other big ticket items. My questions are, first off do I even need any of these done at 40k? Second, if I do need any of these done is it possible to DIY? Lastly, if it isn't a DIY what type of shop should I go to have it done.

I'm not mechanically savvy so I apprecaite any suggestions.

Thanks!

telcoman

Just change the Oil and Filter
Change the air filter yourself very easy

On my recently traded in 06 with almost 172k miles I never changed the transmission or differential fluids and the coolant was flushed and changed when the plugs were changed at 105k miles.
Check your owners/warranty/service manual

Telcoman

HoldmyMouse

While I do agree sometimes Dealerships would "recommend" or "advise" you to get certain services done for no apparent reason other than to make you spend, BUT I feel it is the owner's responsibility to "know" when it is actually appropriate. There are recommended guidelines on services but sometimes they can be completely unnecessary. So what I'm trying to say is to check the fluid yourself and don't listen to others on when it should be changed or how long it can go for. Everyone drives differently in different traffic speed, so some do need to change more frequently than others. Oil changes I would do religiously because I'm used to it but for the tranny and the diff, I would take a sample and see how the oil look/smell. Many of the services you have listed can be found in the DIY section. They should be fairly easy if you have access to car ramps and time on hand.

monty2003

Short answer: no those services are not needed at this point.


Longer answer: follow the recommended service schedule in your owners manual. There will be one for normal use and the other for heavier use. I doubt any of the services offered to you by the dealer are recommended at 40k under the normal schedule - maybe not even the heavy use schedule.


Brian

Black Betty

iTrader: (60)

Perhaps they are just using improper terminology or saying it that way to make it seem more necessary than it is, but none of those fluid exchanges need and sort of "flush" except the cooling system it it is good for at least 100K before you need to even consider that unless something's wrong. It very likely doesn't need any flush either. You don't do any sort of flush of your crank case when you change your oil, do you? Just drain and refill. You are a victim of an old dealer service department trick - get them in for a free or cheap oil change and convince them that they need a whole list of other expensive services. That's how dealerships offer oil changes got free or at a loss.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

The only fluid they didn't mention was probably the only fluid that may need to be addressed, the brake fluid may be due to be flushed.

monty2003

Here's a link to the 2011 service schedule written by Infiniti (not the dealer)

https://owners.infinitiusa.com/iowne...2011_I_SMG.pdf

I'd say most of us fall under schedule 2. In looking at it more closely it does recommend changing the brake fluid at 60k (i'm surprised) for schedule 2. I know many here shudder at the thought of waiting 7500 miles to change the oil but doing so more frequently unless you meet one or more of the schedule 1 criteria is a waste of money.

SCHEDULE 1 (more severe operating conditions),
every 3,750 miles or 3 months,

whichever comes first.

Use Schedule 1 if you primarily operate
your vehicle under any of these conditions:
• Repeated short trips of less than 5 miles
in normal temperatures or less than 10
miles in freezing temperatures
• Stop-and-go traffic in hot weather or lowspeed
driving for long distances
• Driving in dusty conditions or on rough,
muddy, or salt-spread roads
• Towing a trailer, or using a camper

or car-top carrier

SCHEDULE 2 (less severe operating conditions),
every 7,500 miles or 6 months,

whichever comes first

movinon

I agree with Monty123.
The key word in determining if your car falls under periodic service schedule I, is "PRIMARILY".
All drivers will occasionally drive under one of the items listed under the severe schedule, but most do not PRIMARILY drive under those conditions.

A large percentage of dealerships bilk the public by telling the owners, of all the different car brands, that they need to do unnecessary service. This is how the dealers get all their profit.

Some owners, that are aware that these services are not necessary, have it done any way, thinking the car will run better,last longer etc.
In actuality you have a much greater chance of having problems by having unnecessary services performed.
Every time someone works on your car the odds go up that something will get screwed up.
A large percentage of car break downs are directly related to the last person that worked on it.
The owner's manual will state what needs to be done and when.
Tom

'11G37S

iTrader: (4)

Thank you all for your responses. I'm pretty sure that this is the first time in a while that ALL responses were usefull! I cannot believe that I didn't even think to check the owners manual, it wont happen again. Lol. But thank you all again!

blazeplacid

iTrader: (1)

a floor jack, jack stands, and a set of tools goes along way with this car.

I have yet to but any specialty tools just for this car.
Back in the day Ford had a screw driver made for the ignition module.

RISKY GUY

iTrader: (9)

If you bought it used & are keeping it long term, why not change the fluid. ?
Think of it this way, you have 40k now.
I changed rear diff /trans/ on mine @ 50k.
Your better off having fresh fluid in your axles/trans.
Then you know it has been done, this will keep your g in tip top condition.
I am a firm believer, that an bit of overkill maybe, but you own a fairly expensive car.
Protect your investment.

rlo

Personally I avoid the dealer for all services I can do myself. Nowadays I just go in for warranty or TSB.
Although if you are not technically savvy you can always look at what the manual recommends and look for a independent mechanic that knows Infiniti or Nissan's, some indy's have loaners some dont, rarely another Infiniti though.

canucklehead

iTrader: (9)

^ exactly my thoughts. Dealers are for warranty or TSB work only for me. DIY or independent for everything else. Another benefit to a trusted independent is they willndo labour only, I almost always provide the parts which I purchased online for half the retail cost. If a guy really needed a loaner you could pay for a rental car and still come out ahead!

trcb777

My brother leased a 99 Pontiac grand am for 48 months and changed the oil once and removed the air filter because he thought It sounded cooler. Car had zero problems, at least for 4 years. Crazy bastard.

G_Panda

My dealer told me under normal operation the diff. fluid is good for 60K. I also have a 09 g37x. I will also be doing all these major services myself, much cheaper in the long run. they wanted over 200 for air filters, cabin filter and wipers! crazy kids....