the93owner

Very clean! Love the black and gunmetal accents

VIVID

iTrader: (12)

I agree as well. Very nice!!!

Unfortunately, with me at the wheel that would last approximately 90 seconds on my G. Just call me the 'scrape-o-matic'. I am constantly sanding and re-painting my OEM lip. The last time it was an opossum....don't ask...

Sean

the93owner

Pfft, you're not even that low LOL

Mr.Grant

iTrader: (2)

This is awesome!

So how much would it cost for you to make me one?... LOL

jsheets

iTrader: (2)

Haha, it's a lip made for an STI that I had to "hack up" a bit to make it work. I'm no expert so you don't want me making you one. lol

Thanks guys, I completely agree. The mod bug never ends and the list of things I want continues to grow. These are both on the "backlog"

the93owner

Any DIY, tips for installation, or steps to outline what you did? I'm sure a lot of people would be curious to know and would thank you for your guidance

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

What's that little black lip up front?

2GoRNot2G

iTrader: (5)

Me too! Except for me it was coffee. Funny stuff, Rochester!!

2GoRNot2G

iTrader: (5)

Hmmm. Very interesting. Do you know when this changed (maybe with the change from the 3.5HR to the 3.7VHR)? Years ago I actually swapped a set of stock '08 G35S sways onto a '07 G35 (non S) and there was definitely quite a difference in the size between the sways.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Beats me. All I know is Newt's RWD Journey has exactly the same OEM swaybars as my 6MT.

So yeah, it must be the 2009+ G37.

Being a Dad to a 12 year old girl, I actually know what "bae" means. I've heard her use it a number of times, because... well, she's a 12 year old girl.

2GoRNot2G

iTrader: (5)

Car looks amazing, Mark! These pics make me wish I had a decent camera along with the skills to take such beautiful pictures.


Please post up a close up pic of your headlights when you get a chance... Those look like they turned out really nice for DIY.


FYI... I was just up in Paso Robles and Monterey this past weekend doing some wine tasting with my wife and some friends. If I had know you were down that way we could have tried to meet up for a drink or something.

ShuuraRG

iTrader: (2)

Very nice!!! By chance did you document your process for the lights? I'm thinking of doing mine next week, but need some suggestions on the halo's and process.

lobuzz311

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Adrian. I'm pretty happy with how it's coming together. Too bad about not meeting up. Would have been nice to put a face to the name, and check out that beauty of yours.

Thanks! I didn't do any DIY-level documentation, but I've got a few pics from during the process that I'll post here, as well as a few pointers.

I used this post for some inspiration / pointers / visual on the cutoff shield:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/build-t...ml#post3983315

I ended up bugging MaQG37 via PM about his process, which helped me a LOT.

I used plastic primer and satin black high temp paint. I didn't paint the chrome strip right near the projector, since that's where the bubbling issue is worst. I ended up painting the side reflector, because my trial with Nite-shadez was disasterous.

I modded the shield to get that nice razor's edge cutoff (as shown in MaQG37's linked above). I added the STI-R lenses, as well. Those required making a few additional spacers out of a cereal box, using the one already in there as a template.

The halos are the 90mm Morimotos found here:
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/mo...=49387%2C49545
You will need to buy the controller, which gives you the ability to change the colors via remote, change modes, turn on/off, etc. The attachment instructions that come with them are exactly what I used; drill holes on either side and run a wire around it, which gets twisted behind. You can't see it unless you're VERY close, and there is no glue to let go under high-heat conditions. I added JB Weld PlasticWeld to lock the twisted wire behind the shrouds. I drilled through the back of the light housing to run the halo wiring, which I sealed up with more PlasticWeld.
The controller is mounted under the hood on the passenger side, at the top of the fender under the weather stripping. The modules are all zip-tied and HD two-sided taped to various places. There's also a great grounding point right there. The halos are run through a relay that has the trigger wire spliced from the hot on the 12v plug in the console. It gets run through the massive "grommet" at the base of the windshield on the passenger side. This was done because the switched sources in the engine bay are all on computer controlled modules (or something like that), so I didn't want to mess with those.

*** Pro tip: Get a 12v source (I use my R/C battery charger power supply) to power the controller so you can test BEFORE sealing the lights back up!!! ***

And the pics, because... well, yay pics!





















And here's a little demo of what you can do via remote (which looks like this): )

GNTLMN_Z

Dropped my car off to get some work done. Here's a quick (and unfortunately dirty) before pic. See it again in a few days!

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Before pic looks very nice, looking forward to what you've got on deck.