36K service,what's really needed?
#1
36K service,what's really needed?
Taking in my car for the 36k service next week,and can hardly wait to see what the dealership wants to sell.
Other than oil,filter,tire rotation, and air filters,what is really needed?
They always say my brakes need to be cleaned and lubed (as well as inspected) about $200.
This a pure cash grab,or legit?
Other thoughts on required service?
Thanks all...
Other than oil,filter,tire rotation, and air filters,what is really needed?
They always say my brakes need to be cleaned and lubed (as well as inspected) about $200.
This a pure cash grab,or legit?
Other thoughts on required service?
Thanks all...
#3
There isn't a 36k service. That's a dealer's way of getting you back in to spend some money on very overpriced services.
Your oil and filter should be changed at the same time, and they should only be changed when necessary. That may happen to be at 36,000, but it's no more likely to be then, than say, 32,482, or 41,738
Tire rotation should be done every oil change, or every other, or not at all if you don't have any wear issues or some reason to rotate them.
Air filters should be replaced (or cleaned depending on your particular filter) when they're dirty. That isn't a function of mileage. Same with your cabin air filter. Do it when it needs it, not when you've driven a specified distance.
Brakes cleaned and lubed? Yea, ok that's BS. Inspected, yea, do that. I mean you do that, not have it done. It's easy, just take the tire off and look at them. Do they need to be replaced? Are they wearing evenly? While you've got your wheel off, go ahead and spray some brake cleaner on them. You don't have to, but clean is better than dirty right? 200 bucks for this service? Toss me 150 and I'll do it for you. It's easy.
Yes, it's a pure cash grab. Yea it's legit. They legitimately want your money for doing almost nothing.
You definitely should service any components requiring it. None of the components in your vehicle require service just because you've driven 36,000 miles.
Your oil and filter should be changed at the same time, and they should only be changed when necessary. That may happen to be at 36,000, but it's no more likely to be then, than say, 32,482, or 41,738
Tire rotation should be done every oil change, or every other, or not at all if you don't have any wear issues or some reason to rotate them.
Air filters should be replaced (or cleaned depending on your particular filter) when they're dirty. That isn't a function of mileage. Same with your cabin air filter. Do it when it needs it, not when you've driven a specified distance.
Brakes cleaned and lubed? Yea, ok that's BS. Inspected, yea, do that. I mean you do that, not have it done. It's easy, just take the tire off and look at them. Do they need to be replaced? Are they wearing evenly? While you've got your wheel off, go ahead and spray some brake cleaner on them. You don't have to, but clean is better than dirty right? 200 bucks for this service? Toss me 150 and I'll do it for you. It's easy.
Yes, it's a pure cash grab. Yea it's legit. They legitimately want your money for doing almost nothing.
You definitely should service any components requiring it. None of the components in your vehicle require service just because you've driven 36,000 miles.
#4
Just say no!!!!!
iTrader: (14)
Itchy, I respectfully disagree on the brake portion of your reply.
While I agree most of the stuff can be done yourself, the brakes are a different matter. Rust, dirt, debris on the slide pins can cause premature/uneven pad wear by preventing unrestricted movement of the pads. As a result, a pad can get hung up and not retract properly (one side retracts, other doesn't). By removing these pins periodically, you can clear/remove any rust present and then lubricate the 'ears' of the brake pads prior to reinstallation. This ensures the pads will have unrestricted movement and will likely increase pad life.
Is this service worth $200? I doubt it. Once the wheels are off, there's probably at best 20-30 minutes of labor per side if you take your time. This essentially amounts to doing a R&R of the pads only (rotor stays put).
PS. The fsm suggests using copper based brake grease on the pad ears. I'd probably put a light film on the pins too.
While I agree most of the stuff can be done yourself, the brakes are a different matter. Rust, dirt, debris on the slide pins can cause premature/uneven pad wear by preventing unrestricted movement of the pads. As a result, a pad can get hung up and not retract properly (one side retracts, other doesn't). By removing these pins periodically, you can clear/remove any rust present and then lubricate the 'ears' of the brake pads prior to reinstallation. This ensures the pads will have unrestricted movement and will likely increase pad life.
Is this service worth $200? I doubt it. Once the wheels are off, there's probably at best 20-30 minutes of labor per side if you take your time. This essentially amounts to doing a R&R of the pads only (rotor stays put).
PS. The fsm suggests using copper based brake grease on the pad ears. I'd probably put a light film on the pins too.
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Itchy, I respectfully disagree on the brake portion of your reply.
While I agree most of the stuff can be done yourself, the brakes are a different matter. Rust, dirt, debris on the slide pins can cause premature/uneven pad wear by preventing unrestricted movement of the pads. As a result, a pad can get hung up and not retract properly (one side retracts, other doesn't). By removing these pins periodically, you can clear/remove any rust present and then lubricate the 'ears' of the brake pads prior to reinstallation. This ensures the pads will have unrestricted movement and will likely increase pad life.
Is this service worth $200? I doubt it. Once the wheels are off, there's probably at best 20-30 minutes of labor per side if you take your time. This essentially amounts to doing a R&R of the pads only (rotor stays put).
PS. The fsm suggests using copper based brake grease on the pad ears. I'd probably put a light film on the pins too.
While I agree most of the stuff can be done yourself, the brakes are a different matter. Rust, dirt, debris on the slide pins can cause premature/uneven pad wear by preventing unrestricted movement of the pads. As a result, a pad can get hung up and not retract properly (one side retracts, other doesn't). By removing these pins periodically, you can clear/remove any rust present and then lubricate the 'ears' of the brake pads prior to reinstallation. This ensures the pads will have unrestricted movement and will likely increase pad life.
Is this service worth $200? I doubt it. Once the wheels are off, there's probably at best 20-30 minutes of labor per side if you take your time. This essentially amounts to doing a R&R of the pads only (rotor stays put).
PS. The fsm suggests using copper based brake grease on the pad ears. I'd probably put a light film on the pins too.
Last edited by Ibanez540r; 12-17-2011 at 05:45 AM.
#6
Banned
There isn't a 36k service. That's a dealer's way of getting you back in to spend some money on very overpriced services.
Your oil and filter should be changed at the same time, and they should only be changed when necessary. That may happen to be at 36,000, but it's no more likely to be then, than say, 32,482, or 41,738
Tire rotation should be done every oil change, or every other, or not at all if you don't have any wear issues or some reason to rotate them.
Air filters should be replaced (or cleaned depending on your particular filter) when they're dirty. That isn't a function of mileage. Same with your cabin air filter. Do it when it needs it, not when you've driven a specified distance.
Brakes cleaned and lubed? Yea, ok that's BS. Inspected, yea, do that. I mean you do that, not have it done. It's easy, just take the tire off and look at them. Do they need to be replaced? Are they wearing evenly? While you've got your wheel off, go ahead and spray some brake cleaner on them. You don't have to, but clean is better than dirty right? 200 bucks for this service? Toss me 150 and I'll do it for you. It's easy.
Yes, it's a pure cash grab. Yea it's legit. They legitimately want your money for doing almost nothing.
You definitely should service any components requiring it. None of the components in your vehicle require service just because you've driven 36,000 miles.
Your oil and filter should be changed at the same time, and they should only be changed when necessary. That may happen to be at 36,000, but it's no more likely to be then, than say, 32,482, or 41,738
Tire rotation should be done every oil change, or every other, or not at all if you don't have any wear issues or some reason to rotate them.
Air filters should be replaced (or cleaned depending on your particular filter) when they're dirty. That isn't a function of mileage. Same with your cabin air filter. Do it when it needs it, not when you've driven a specified distance.
Brakes cleaned and lubed? Yea, ok that's BS. Inspected, yea, do that. I mean you do that, not have it done. It's easy, just take the tire off and look at them. Do they need to be replaced? Are they wearing evenly? While you've got your wheel off, go ahead and spray some brake cleaner on them. You don't have to, but clean is better than dirty right? 200 bucks for this service? Toss me 150 and I'll do it for you. It's easy.
Yes, it's a pure cash grab. Yea it's legit. They legitimately want your money for doing almost nothing.
You definitely should service any components requiring it. None of the components in your vehicle require service just because you've driven 36,000 miles.
#7
Your owner's manual will state what needs to be done for periodic maintenance. The dealer is just trying to milk you for the extra profit.
Another thing the dealers do is tell everyone that they fall under the severe schedule. This is also BS. In order to fall under the severe maintenance schedule you have to operate your car "PRIMARILY" under one or more of the listed severe conditions.
You are not gaining anything by changing fluids twice as often as necessary, if anything your risking your vehicle by having someone work on it twice as often as necessary.
A large percentage of car break downs can be directly traced back to the last person that worked on it.
Tom
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#8
Just say no!!!!!
iTrader: (14)
Ehh. True, but unless your completely **** (I am and still don't do this) then this is unnecessary as a service interval. I agree it is a great practice, but as long as it is done when swapping out new pads your good. I don't think it's worth or necessary to do any other time. <-- unless you have the wheels off or are messing with brakes anyway.
#9
How about when they tell your engine belt needs replacing? I was quoted $150 for the service. I have a 2009 sedan with about 33K on it. Its basically a weekend car and I dont drive the car hard...too often . I am not mechanically incline so I dont know whats not normal.
#10
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engine belt? lol whats that?
after 33k....i highly doubt it..ive owned vehicles and had 80k+ miles on them without replacing the serpentine belt, or even the timing belt...
does anyone know if this VQ37 have a timing chain or belt?
but its nothing new that dealerships try to get you to purchase unnecessary service.
ive never heard of brake service other than pads and such...maybe blowing a little compressed air in them wont hurt. lol..
after 33k....i highly doubt it..ive owned vehicles and had 80k+ miles on them without replacing the serpentine belt, or even the timing belt...
does anyone know if this VQ37 have a timing chain or belt?
but its nothing new that dealerships try to get you to purchase unnecessary service.
ive never heard of brake service other than pads and such...maybe blowing a little compressed air in them wont hurt. lol..
#11
Lexus Defector
iTrader: (60)
How about when they tell your engine belt needs replacing? I was quoted $150 for the service. I have a 2009 sedan with about 33K on it. Its basically a weekend car and I dont drive the car hard...too often . I am not mechanically incline so I dont know whats not normal.
#14
For $150 they are talking about the serpentine belt, not the timing belt. You can take a look at it and see if it looks worn, glazed, frayed, cracked, or if there are chunks missing from the ribs. Google how to inspect engine belts and you'll probably find something with photos showing what those conditions look like. Or take it to an honest local independent garage and have them take a look. At 33K you probably don't need to repkace it. I don't yet at 73K.
#15
Thanks for all your input.
The Nissan dealer also tried the brake pad lube service....$160
at Infiniti.....$200
Honda just soaked my wife for the same 'service'.....$200
The Nissan dealer also tried the brake pad lube service....$160
at Infiniti.....$200
Honda just soaked my wife for the same 'service'.....$200
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