eksigned

iTrader: (1)

It's been a miserable 2 weeks (Maxima was nice, but the interior SMELL was horrid). Total damage: ~$5000. Lady rammed the door in and the bumper + both fenders + front lip along with the headlights + fogs were all stripped (everything but plastic) or refinished (lights + plastic pieces) due to previous vandalism + paint chips. It's a good amount of work that's being essentially repainted; almost half the car. I took it a reputable shop - they do very good work from what I've heard, and they're an authorized Aston Martin repair shop -- they do a lot of work on exotic cars (reassurance). Anyways, I've always made mistakes in the past -- I just don't know what to look for when it comes to repainting jobs. Is it just a visual piece that I need to catch onto? They do very good blend work (or at least they did on my friend's 335). Thoughts?

Thanks guys,
Eric

eksigned

iTrader: (1)

Is it appropriate to sue for diminished value? The door was replaced -- no more OE sticker (why can't i think of the name for the vin sticker...???!)

Side note: Clear bra-ing in 2 weeks. Enough time to cure? Hope so...

6mtg37s

iTrader: (1)

I dont think you can do anything about the diminished value, one of our cars has had this problem too sadly. On the other hand post some pics of the car! I want to see the rims!

Mike

iTrader: (1)

You can only go for diminished value if you have a realized loss. Meaning, you need to sell the car, and prove that you sold the car for less than you could have if it had not been in an accident.

If you keep the car, then you didn't realize any actual loss.

OTOH, the car should be returned to its condition before the accident, so feel free to make them do every little thing.

UN1263

Diminished value is a state thing to the best of my knowledge. After a big class action lawsuit about 10 years ago here in GA, insurance companies now automatically send you a DV check after a loss. I had a tree limb fall onto the roof of a 3 week new CC Powerstroke about 7 years ago and it needed a roof skin and all 4 doors base blended and totally recleared. I forget what the total estimate was but SF sent me a DV check for $1800. I had hail all but total my 06 35 coupe a few months ago and that $8000 job was only worth $300 in DV. Here in GA, the courts devised a DV formula to work off of.


As far as picking up the car look for the obvious:

Does the paint match when looking dead on?

Does the paint match when looking at 45 degree angles?

Is there any trash in the paint? Look under good florescent shop light not the sun.

If its metallic paint do the metallics match in size? Do they match in flop? Meaning lets say they repainted the the hood and front door and blended onto the rear door...does the color match and flop correctly where the old color meets the new color when viewed dead on and from multiple angles?

Are the door jambs/hood/trunk openings free of any obvious paint line where new base/clear meets the old paint? A good shop either uses foam tape or blue fine line tape to get clean jambs.

Are the emblems on straight and correct?

Is there any noticeable clearcoat build up around lights or window rubbers showing they were too lazy to pull the light or trim and taped around it instead?

Is there any rubbing compound residue in the jambs or in the hood/trunk opening?

Are the headlights aimed right?

Do all the exterior lights work correctly?

Does the horn work?

Are there any idiot lights on in the dash that weren't on before? Is the airbag light off?

If there was suspension damage, does the car ride right and track down the road correctly?

If it was a big job/hard hit drive the car with the radio and AC and listen for any road noise or rattles that didn't exist before.



The BIGGEST concern in my book is...is it obvious that part of the car has been repainted vs the original paint that's left? If so, you are so screwed when it comes to trade or lease turn in. Of course you are already screwed by the Carfax but that's another matter.

eksigned

iTrader: (1)

Thank you very, VERY much for your post. I appreciate your insight, more than you know! Will bring my iPad and do a check off per your list as I'm picking the car up lol

THANKS AGAIN ALL!!!

UN1263

Here's a big one I missed:

If they replaced panels, do the replaced panels line up correctly with the panel adjacent to it? Meaning lets say you got a new hood. Is the gap between the hood and the fender even and consistent in width with other gaps on the vehicle? Does the gap on the right side of the hood match the gap on the left side of the hood? When you run the palm of your hand from the hood to the fender is it level or is the fender higher than the hood or is the hood higher than the fender? Run your palm over the entire length not just one corner.

rpm&my_G35

@UN1263 - excellent checklist.
OP - As for your paint curing and clear-bra question...
Somebody keyed my front fender 4 days into having the car. I already had an appointment for a clear-bra install so I asked the shop(s) the same question. The body shop and the detailer (installing the bra) both said it was fine to install the bra within a couple days of the paint job. It seems to be fine but keep in mind that for me it was just a portion of the fender repainted.
I think if you wait 2 weeks that will be plenty of time.

eksigned

iTrader: (1)

rpm&my_G35 (whitey id by the way lol),

thanks for your input. the body shop uses venture clear braing products? i've never heard of them, and they informed me that they wait a minimum of 4 days prior to any sort of clear braing. they've been doing it that way for years, supposedly. my local tint buddy insists however, that 2 weeks (or roughly) is the way to go; he uses 3M products and was informed to do so by 3M. guess we'll find out. hope the clear coat doesn't lift! eek! lol

bschurr

iTrader: (2)

@UN1263 - great list indeed. Just a couple of additions:
1 - Drive the car - is the alignment OK, any rubbing or scraping noises
2 - Are all of your personal belongins still in the car (glove box, center console, trunk etc) including ipod, sunglasses, spare change, EZ Pass blah blah blah
3 - is the interior clean, no stains or rips on the seats or carpet.

rpm&my_G35

Are you sure they didnt say VentureShield. It's a 3M product (3M bought Ventureshield a while back because it was better than their own stuff at the time). I have VS on my bumper, fenders, hood, mirrors and trunk ledge.

I'm guess I'm to old to under stand this : "whitey id by the way lol"

UN1263

Excellent points ^^^ though personally I would clean the car out of anything valuable ahead of time.


Also, look for compound/hand glaze on any black trim/window rubbers. The reason being is a lot of that stuff including 3M is high in petroleum distillates and if you don't wash it off quick it either is a pain to remove or doesn't come off.

FourT2

Which body shop did you take the car to? Do you like their work?

eksigned

iTrader: (1)

^ Bel-Red Rebuild. Ask for Mike (please do tell him Eric Kim sent ya his way). They did a phenomenal job, AND the delivery presentation was...phenomenal.

UN1263

If an insurance repair, always ask friends and family for highly recommended shops. Never take your vehicle to a shop your insurance company recommends or 'steers' you too. Steering is illegal in most states.

If you are unfortunate enough to have Progressive, never ever use their Concierge service.