what does your fuel econ avg say?
#31
Coprolite is right. Its all about the air/fuel mixture. More (denser) air = more fuel needed. Cold air is more dense than warm air, so the colder the air and engine to start the more fuel is necessary.
If you had a datalogger to hook up and watched it real time, youd see the fuel trim change as the engine goes from cold to warm.
Thats why its hard to pinpoint mpg figures between people and cars. Everyone drives differently, different geographies, weather, etc. Only real way to compare them is if we all do a cross country caravan of Gs. Then we would all be in the exact same conditions at the same time and could compare mpg (driving habits would still affect the numbers somewhat but that would be pretty much the only variable at that point, minus mods)
If you had a datalogger to hook up and watched it real time, youd see the fuel trim change as the engine goes from cold to warm.
Thats why its hard to pinpoint mpg figures between people and cars. Everyone drives differently, different geographies, weather, etc. Only real way to compare them is if we all do a cross country caravan of Gs. Then we would all be in the exact same conditions at the same time and could compare mpg (driving habits would still affect the numbers somewhat but that would be pretty much the only variable at that point, minus mods)
#32
G is ODBII right?
You can get a cheapo ODB-II to bluetooth dongle on ebay, and Im sure there is some s/w out there for a laptop (but Ive never used the software so I dont know).
I was looking into the wireless adapter and an app for my Android phone, there are a few of those to choose from as well (Torque is free and there is one more that is a paid solution but with much better features, they were supposed to come out with their bluetooth version for Android in the 1st quarter of this year).
EDIT: Torque can datalog so if you have an Android phone, the app is free and all you need is the dongle (look for an ELM327 based dongle). The full paid solution coming out is by GoPoint technologies, scheduled to release Q1 2011. Not sure if you can just grab the app from them for free (since its Android) and then use any dongle, or if theyve somehow made their own proprietary adapter that forces you to buy their version.
You can get a cheapo ODB-II to bluetooth dongle on ebay, and Im sure there is some s/w out there for a laptop (but Ive never used the software so I dont know).
I was looking into the wireless adapter and an app for my Android phone, there are a few of those to choose from as well (Torque is free and there is one more that is a paid solution but with much better features, they were supposed to come out with their bluetooth version for Android in the 1st quarter of this year).
EDIT: Torque can datalog so if you have an Android phone, the app is free and all you need is the dongle (look for an ELM327 based dongle). The full paid solution coming out is by GoPoint technologies, scheduled to release Q1 2011. Not sure if you can just grab the app from them for free (since its Android) and then use any dongle, or if theyve somehow made their own proprietary adapter that forces you to buy their version.
Last edited by Chris11LE; 01-16-2011 at 01:54 PM.
#33
I noticed that temperature played a big role in my mpg on my short commute. If you do short trips the car spends more time(as a % of total) getting up to full operating temp for all the systems(water/oil/trans/diff). If it is colder, it takes longer. Here's my example: Commute to work: Start car, let it idle while buckling and closing garage. It is currently parked outside, as the Accord is fully detailed, waiting to be sold. This makes it colder upon start. When leaving from a 50 deg garage, the car is usually pretty warm and pumping out heat to get me warm in about half a mile. When it is colder, this time is lengthened. Any time spent driving with the car below normal temp will result in lower mpg. As my whole commute is 12 minutes, just another minute below normal temp has an impact. I have been getting about 17 during this last "cold" snap on my normal commute. At warmer temps, I was getting about 19-20. My average of 20.2 is related to my longer joy rides and fun trips to Dallas. It hit a peak of 27 on the way to Dallas(45-1 hr drive) with a warm car right after fueling.
To make a long story short: short trips = lower mileage, if everything else is the same. I would fully expect city driving in a warmer climate to be more efficient than when it is very cold. Of course, once it gets very hot it may suffer with the A/C on full blast.
To make a long story short: short trips = lower mileage, if everything else is the same. I would fully expect city driving in a warmer climate to be more efficient than when it is very cold. Of course, once it gets very hot it may suffer with the A/C on full blast.
Coprolite is right. Its all about the air/fuel mixture. More (denser) air = more fuel needed. Cold air is more dense than warm air, so the colder the air and engine to start the more fuel is necessary.
If you had a datalogger to hook up and watched it real time, youd see the fuel trim change as the engine goes from cold to warm.
Thats why its hard to pinpoint mpg figures between people and cars. Everyone drives differently, different geographies, weather, etc. Only real way to compare them is if we all do a cross country caravan of Gs. Then we would all be in the exact same conditions at the same time and could compare mpg (driving habits would still affect the numbers somewhat but that would be pretty much the only variable at that point, minus mods)
If you had a datalogger to hook up and watched it real time, youd see the fuel trim change as the engine goes from cold to warm.
Thats why its hard to pinpoint mpg figures between people and cars. Everyone drives differently, different geographies, weather, etc. Only real way to compare them is if we all do a cross country caravan of Gs. Then we would all be in the exact same conditions at the same time and could compare mpg (driving habits would still affect the numbers somewhat but that would be pretty much the only variable at that point, minus mods)
#37
Yep, all of this makes sense.... Ah but in the North east, we have Winter Blends of gas (more ethanol, I believe). That will affect the MPGs !!! For a brief comparison for City driving - that terms has differenet meanings too - using our 2010 Honda CRV -driving a few blocks, then stop, then go, a few blocks,etc.... reset the mpg usage - 10.8 to 12.2 mpgs - 4 cylinder engine in cold weather over a 2 -3 miles on the way home. That's steepin on it... baby the throttle a little, might see 14-15.5 mpgs on the same trip.
We have winter blend in TX, also! They don't vary the ethanol, as it must contain 8-10%(toptier gas site), but vary the actual base stock to change vapor pressure and a few other properties so that it burns better in the cold. If winter gas is used in the summer, it will create more pollution. Car engines have a lot of trouble burning summer gas in the winter.
People tend to idle their cars more in the winter. Since an earlier idling thread, I have noticed that I will idle just a little longer when it is colder out. I must have a subconscious urge to drive a toasty car.
#38
This is strange...according to the EPA website describing the gas guzzler tax, the G37 sedan RWD with 7AT just squeaks by in not being taxed, while both the G37 and G37x sedan 6MT should have a $1300 gas guzzler tax:
Gas Guzzler Tax: Program Overview | Fuel Economy | US EPA
but the guzzler tax isn't charged on the 6MT, is it?
The numbers: [Late edit: see 2 posts down for revised/corrected numbers]
G37 sedan 7AT MPG 19/27, so the combined number to base the tax on is 55% of 19 + 45% of 27 = 22.6MPG (just clears the 22.5 MPG threshold)
G37 6MT rated at 17/25 gives 20.6 combined
G37x 6MT rated at 18/25 gives 21.15 combined.
and the tax table reads:
Combined fuel economy of:
at least 22.5 mpg, No tax
at least 21.5, but less than 22.5 mpg $1000 guzzler tax
at least 20.5, but less than 21.5 mpg $1300 guzzler tax
Gas Guzzler Tax: Program Overview | Fuel Economy | US EPA
but the guzzler tax isn't charged on the 6MT, is it?
The numbers: [Late edit: see 2 posts down for revised/corrected numbers]
G37 sedan 7AT MPG 19/27, so the combined number to base the tax on is 55% of 19 + 45% of 27 = 22.6MPG (just clears the 22.5 MPG threshold)
G37 6MT rated at 17/25 gives 20.6 combined
G37x 6MT rated at 18/25 gives 21.15 combined.
and the tax table reads:
Combined fuel economy of:
at least 22.5 mpg, No tax
at least 21.5, but less than 22.5 mpg $1000 guzzler tax
at least 20.5, but less than 21.5 mpg $1300 guzzler tax
Last edited by clutch5; 01-24-2011 at 12:39 PM.
#39
This is strange...according to the EPA website describing the gas guzzler tax, the G37 sedan RWD with 7AT just squeaks by in not being taxed, while both the G37 and G37x sedan 6MT should have a $1300 gas guzzler tax:
Gas Guzzler Tax: Program Overview | Fuel Economy | US EPA
Gas Guzzler Tax: Program Overview | Fuel Economy | US EPA
You missed the key point, which I have quoted below, and is a little confusing if you read too quickly. The tax is based upon the raw numbers, but the sticker value is adjusted for the real world. This is why MPG 2008 and after dropped and could not be compared to earlier values until they were recalculated.
From the link you gave:
"EPA and manufacturers use the same test to measure vehicle fuel economy for the Gas Guzzler Tax and for new car fuel economy labels. However, the calculation procedures for tax and label purposes differ, resulting in different fuel economy values. This is because an adjustment factor is applied to the fuel economy test results for purposes of the label, but not for the tax. The adjustment is intended to help account for the differences between “real-world” and laboratory testing conditions.
EPA conducts fuel economy tests in a laboratory on a dynamometer (a device similar to a treadmill). Laboratory conditions can be different from real world conditions for such parameters as vehicle speeds, acceleration rates, driving patterns, ambient temperatures, fuel type, tire pressure, wind resistance, etc. EPA studies indicate that vehicles driven by typical drivers under typical road conditions get approximately 90 percent of the laboratory test-based city miles per gallon (mpg) value and approximately78 percent of laboratory highway mpg value. This difference is referred to as “in-use shortfall.” To account for the in-use shortfall, the city and highway mpg values listed in Fuel Economy Guide and shown on fuel economy labels are multiplied by 0.90 for the city test and 0.78 for the highway test. However, the combined city and highway fuel economy that is used to determine tax liability is not adjusted to account for in-use shortfall, so it is higher than the mpg values provided in the Fuel Economy Guide (Fuel Economy) and posted on the window stickers of new vehicles."
#44
I have 2,200 miles on mine, I will change over to synthetics at the first oil change and then I would expect an increase. I am averaging 23-24 on the highway if I maintain a consistent speed but it's closer to 21 if I feel a need to pass someone.
I'm trying to find the ideal speed it wants to be at for the best gas mileage. For the 350Z it was 80MPH. I was able to get 28 highway on that so I think I will wind up with an average of 23 once I switch to synthetic.
I'm trying to find the ideal speed it wants to be at for the best gas mileage. For the 350Z it was 80MPH. I was able to get 28 highway on that so I think I will wind up with an average of 23 once I switch to synthetic.