2010 g37
06-24-2010, 09:59 PM
#16
Registered User
Hi guys, I am VERY new to Infinity and was hoping someone could advise me as to whether this was worth it or not. I am in Utah and was quoted this last night.
2010 Infinity G37
MSRP - 43,469.00
Down Payment - $2500 (total, nothing else due at signing)
TOTAL MONTHLY PAYMENT - $526.
This car has the premium package, nav, sport package, illuminated kickers, spoiler, tire package, etc. From my understanding, there is nothing more I could put on it, unless I went with the anniversary edition and got the special red seats.
Can you tell me if this seems like a good deal or not? I have been trying multiple lease calculators online, but it seems they are all over the place with the payments. Thank you!
2010 Infinity G37
MSRP - 43,469.00
Down Payment - $2500 (total, nothing else due at signing)
TOTAL MONTHLY PAYMENT - $526.
This car has the premium package, nav, sport package, illuminated kickers, spoiler, tire package, etc. From my understanding, there is nothing more I could put on it, unless I went with the anniversary edition and got the special red seats.
Can you tell me if this seems like a good deal or not? I have been trying multiple lease calculators online, but it seems they are all over the place with the payments. Thank you!
Look at other dealers to see what they're going for. Look up Sewell Infiniti of Dallas, they have a nice online inventory with prices. Your savings may be worth a one-way plane ticket, and you can break it in on the way home.
Last edited by TinsleyC; 06-24-2010 at 10:00 PM. Reason: correct spelling
06-26-2010, 04:55 AM
#17
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Right now the national lease offer is for sedan is 319 a month for Journey and prem packs... coupe with same packs 339 a month both with 3499... due at signing so for each pack your adding its about 50 bucks a month so add 100 to that and depending how much tax is in your state add about 40 bucks a month to that and your putting down about a 1000 less than the national offer so add about another 25 bucks a month for that puts you at about 504 a month on the coupe... so they aren't far off unless you want to wait till the '11 models to come out and get a great deal on a '10 i say go for it....
06-27-2010, 10:58 PM
#18
Right now the national lease offer is for sedan is 319 a month for Journey and prem packs... coupe with same packs 339 a month both with 3499... due at signing so for each pack your adding its about 50 bucks a month so add 100 to that and depending how much tax is in your state add about 40 bucks a month to that and your putting down about a 1000 less than the national offer so add about another 25 bucks a month for that puts you at about 504 a month on the coupe... so they aren't far off unless you want to wait till the '11 models to come out and get a great deal on a '10 i say go for it....
06-28-2010, 01:07 AM
#19
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06-28-2010, 07:04 AM
#20
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Hey BLKG37X - that was me
The $419 was without tax. I also had the $1,000 Infinitii loyalty credit that I applied to the cap cost reduction. Total out of pocket would have been $2500 but then the credit of $1000 came out of that so I only needed $1500 (1st pymt, tax, tags, bank fee, etc). I do think I got a great deal. The selling price was $300 under invoice FYI and then my trade, etc. got me another $1000 in savings (NOT applied to the cap cost reduction) since they traded my car on which I had $1000 in payments left. The trade was all done separate from the lease though. MSRP was $43,910 and my selling price was $39,356 (or something close to that) for comparison. The previous poster is correct though - when people say 'this car is loaded' or 'you can't get any other options' it doesn't really help much b/c there are quite a few options I would have liked but they just don't come stock in our area (i.e. grill, illuminated kickplates,etc) so getting exact specs is always important. The car you mentioned doesn't have the Tech package. I elected to get it as I've had the intelligent cruise control on my M, past G and there are a few other reasons I wanted it. 12000 mi/yr and 39 month lease
I would say that June is looking like a GREAT time to lease a G. The money factors are great - I think I saved $30+ over what a similar calculation would have been had I bought in May with that money factor FYI. It does make a big difference!!!
Rates are still low so maybe Infiniti will keep the money factors down in July but there seemed to be a real push from corporate to move cars in June so we'll see.
If you are thinking of leasing - June may be the month.
For the original poster: I think that payment seems pretty high.
You can find lease calculators all over the internet but you definitely need to look at the lease by itself first and foremost. After you do the lease numbers, then you should see if want to take the cash from your trade or apply any of the equity toward your cap cost reduction or anything else with your new car.
You should always negotiate the selling price of the car. NOT the cap cost, adjusted cap cost, etc. You want to look at the MSRP and get the invoice price from someplace like Edmunds.com and, right now, you should be able to get to invoice or invoice minus something. Depends on your area, etc.
The money factor is just the interest rate divided by 2400. So if the current money factor is .000142 just multiply that by 2400 to get the interest rate. (You don't need to know that for the lease payment but it is just an interesting tidbit). The residuals and money factors are usually set by Infiniti and they are usually the best to use since they subsidize the transaction to move cars.
Treat the selling price like you are buying the car. You want to negotiate that price as low as possible WITHOUT PUTTING ANY MONEY INTO IT initially. The dealers are great at applying your $2500 to cap cost reduction or fees or other things. Don't let them confuse you. Once you have the selling price then YOU decide how much you want to reduce that number by applying additional money at closing. Most people will say not to put money into a lease up front b/c you won't get it back if you have a loss. That's your decision though.
Once you have that selling price, MRSRP, Money Factor, Residual and Term you can do the math (I usually upload a spreadsheet to my smartphone and bring it with me to the dealership). Once you get those numbers to their absolute lowest, you can look at what to do with your trade money (if any). Applying money to the cap cost reduction will result in a lower payment but increased risk of losing that moeny if you total the car.
Your goal is to get the lowest selling price - period! Get the numbers with zero out of pocket and then YOU decide how much you want to put into the deal.
Make sure you understand those numbers and you'll be fine.
Remember, the dealer will try to offset your 'gain' if you have the loyalty credit (previous Infiniti customer) or for the lower money factors. Basically, they can keep the payment close to last month's and make an extra $1500-$2000 in profit because of those numbers. I'd rather put that money in MY pocket.
Good luck and let us know what you decide.
Jay
The $419 was without tax. I also had the $1,000 Infinitii loyalty credit that I applied to the cap cost reduction. Total out of pocket would have been $2500 but then the credit of $1000 came out of that so I only needed $1500 (1st pymt, tax, tags, bank fee, etc). I do think I got a great deal. The selling price was $300 under invoice FYI and then my trade, etc. got me another $1000 in savings (NOT applied to the cap cost reduction) since they traded my car on which I had $1000 in payments left. The trade was all done separate from the lease though. MSRP was $43,910 and my selling price was $39,356 (or something close to that) for comparison. The previous poster is correct though - when people say 'this car is loaded' or 'you can't get any other options' it doesn't really help much b/c there are quite a few options I would have liked but they just don't come stock in our area (i.e. grill, illuminated kickplates,etc) so getting exact specs is always important. The car you mentioned doesn't have the Tech package. I elected to get it as I've had the intelligent cruise control on my M, past G and there are a few other reasons I wanted it. 12000 mi/yr and 39 month lease
I would say that June is looking like a GREAT time to lease a G. The money factors are great - I think I saved $30+ over what a similar calculation would have been had I bought in May with that money factor FYI. It does make a big difference!!!
Rates are still low so maybe Infiniti will keep the money factors down in July but there seemed to be a real push from corporate to move cars in June so we'll see.
If you are thinking of leasing - June may be the month.
For the original poster: I think that payment seems pretty high.
You can find lease calculators all over the internet but you definitely need to look at the lease by itself first and foremost. After you do the lease numbers, then you should see if want to take the cash from your trade or apply any of the equity toward your cap cost reduction or anything else with your new car.
You should always negotiate the selling price of the car. NOT the cap cost, adjusted cap cost, etc. You want to look at the MSRP and get the invoice price from someplace like Edmunds.com and, right now, you should be able to get to invoice or invoice minus something. Depends on your area, etc.
The money factor is just the interest rate divided by 2400. So if the current money factor is .000142 just multiply that by 2400 to get the interest rate. (You don't need to know that for the lease payment but it is just an interesting tidbit). The residuals and money factors are usually set by Infiniti and they are usually the best to use since they subsidize the transaction to move cars.
Treat the selling price like you are buying the car. You want to negotiate that price as low as possible WITHOUT PUTTING ANY MONEY INTO IT initially. The dealers are great at applying your $2500 to cap cost reduction or fees or other things. Don't let them confuse you. Once you have the selling price then YOU decide how much you want to reduce that number by applying additional money at closing. Most people will say not to put money into a lease up front b/c you won't get it back if you have a loss. That's your decision though.
Once you have that selling price, MRSRP, Money Factor, Residual and Term you can do the math (I usually upload a spreadsheet to my smartphone and bring it with me to the dealership). Once you get those numbers to their absolute lowest, you can look at what to do with your trade money (if any). Applying money to the cap cost reduction will result in a lower payment but increased risk of losing that moeny if you total the car.
Your goal is to get the lowest selling price - period! Get the numbers with zero out of pocket and then YOU decide how much you want to put into the deal.
Make sure you understand those numbers and you'll be fine.
Remember, the dealer will try to offset your 'gain' if you have the loyalty credit (previous Infiniti customer) or for the lower money factors. Basically, they can keep the payment close to last month's and make an extra $1500-$2000 in profit because of those numbers. I'd rather put that money in MY pocket.
Good luck and let us know what you decide.
Jay
Last edited by DigMy35x; 06-28-2010 at 07:22 AM. Reason: added miles/yr and lease term
06-28-2010, 07:07 AM
#21
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My LEASE deal for a 2010 G37xS sedan with Prem, Navi, and Sport packages + rear lip spoiler:
39 months / 15,000 miles per year
$750 due at signing
$518 per month
Sales tax is 8.625%.
(for the purpose of comparison, I was quoted the following for 15,000 miles per year ... $438/month for a Honda Accord Sedan EX-L V6 Navi, $465/month for a Honda Accord Coupe EX-L V6 Navi, both with $1,000 due at signing); and $489/month with $2,700 due at signing for an Acura TSX V6 Tech ... I told Acura they were crazy.)
I think when you're comparing lease deals, it's important to consider the annual mileage allotment, the lease term in months, the amount due at signing, and the monthly payment. Simply quoting monthly payments is pointless without understanding how much someone put down, or even how many miles a year they are paying for. Plus sales tax can really play a role when it is as high as ours here on Long Island.
39 months / 15,000 miles per year
$750 due at signing
$518 per month
Sales tax is 8.625%.
(for the purpose of comparison, I was quoted the following for 15,000 miles per year ... $438/month for a Honda Accord Sedan EX-L V6 Navi, $465/month for a Honda Accord Coupe EX-L V6 Navi, both with $1,000 due at signing); and $489/month with $2,700 due at signing for an Acura TSX V6 Tech ... I told Acura they were crazy.)
I think when you're comparing lease deals, it's important to consider the annual mileage allotment, the lease term in months, the amount due at signing, and the monthly payment. Simply quoting monthly payments is pointless without understanding how much someone put down, or even how many miles a year they are paying for. Plus sales tax can really play a role when it is as high as ours here on Long Island.
06-28-2010, 08:01 AM
#24
Registered User
The car was 44500 i think.
I didn't put anything down at signing.
My trade in was an 05 G35x with 80k miles.
2.99 for 60
Negotiated the trade in and the car for 17500.
I'm gonna have to find one of my monthly payments to get the exact number but it's usually around 550 cause i specifically turned down an offer that exceeded 560.
I'm not sure how i stack up against good or bad deals but i REALLY gave the three dealers i went to a HARD **** time. I was prepared to walked out a few time. They really lowball you on the trade in but i was hard on their assses and they gave me kelly blue book pricing on the trade in and i got lucky with the negotiation on the car taking 3500 off.
I didn't put anything down at signing.
My trade in was an 05 G35x with 80k miles.
2.99 for 60
Negotiated the trade in and the car for 17500.
I'm gonna have to find one of my monthly payments to get the exact number but it's usually around 550 cause i specifically turned down an offer that exceeded 560.
I'm not sure how i stack up against good or bad deals but i REALLY gave the three dealers i went to a HARD **** time. I was prepared to walked out a few time. They really lowball you on the trade in but i was hard on their assses and they gave me kelly blue book pricing on the trade in and i got lucky with the negotiation on the car taking 3500 off.
06-28-2010, 09:25 AM
#25
Hey BLKG37X - that was me
The $419 was without tax. I also had the $1,000 Infinitii loyalty credit that I applied to the cap cost reduction. Total out of pocket would have been $2500 but then the credit of $1000 came out of that so I only needed $1500 (1st pymt, tax, tags, bank fee, etc). I do think I got a great deal.
Jay
The $419 was without tax. I also had the $1,000 Infinitii loyalty credit that I applied to the cap cost reduction. Total out of pocket would have been $2500 but then the credit of $1000 came out of that so I only needed $1500 (1st pymt, tax, tags, bank fee, etc). I do think I got a great deal.
Jay
06-28-2010, 09:46 AM
#26
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Yes, it's a great deal.I understand that the $419 is without tax, but the person who started this thread mentioned having to pay $3,000 up front which included taxes. So his $526/ month doesn't even include taxes. He might not get the loyalty bonus, but on the other you had a few more months on your lease which Infiniti paid off. The two should cancel each other out money-wise. So it's fair to compare $526 vs $419 as a monthly payment. And I'm just trying to say that people should shop around for a deal like yours.
In regard to the lease payments - again, that was a separate deal - nothing to do with the purchase to cancel them out. That's why I think i got such a great deal.
I would have had 2 more payments left on my lease ($499 x2) that I did NOT want rolled into the new lease (never a good idea). The $1000 I saved on those two payments were simply because the dealership bought my car from Infiniti Financial Services. The payoff was about $29,600 and the dealer gave me $29,600 (well, they are sending the check to Infiniti).
I thought that was pretty solid considering trade would have been in the $25,500 to $26,000 range. Their retail price on a similar car is about $32,500 and you know no one pays retail on a used car so I'm thinking they could either pay my $1,000 to Inifiniti and not have a car to sell or they could over pay me for the trade and try to make a few dollars on it (car only had 15,000 miles).
I am trying to keep the numbers straight for folks but the reality is, the dealership went $300 under invoice and then another $1,000 out of pocket on the deal to make it work - I just think that confuses folks that are shopping. Otherwise, I could be like some people and say I got $1,300 under invoice. Problem is, you can't calculate my payment correctly with that number because the $1,000 didn't have anything to do with this vehicle so it doesn't show in the lease payments. Does that make sense?
If I was really trying to give people hard negotiating advice, I would say to try for $1,000 under invoice right now. I really do think the dealers have some incentive to move the G's right now and those June numbers are pretty sweet for the money factor.
I just don't know how realistic it is to get that kind of deal -especially in Utah where I don't think there are many Infiniti dealerships.
So in response to your thread - you are 100% correct - the comparison of his payment to mine should be pretty darn close. Even if he doesn't have the loyalty - with $3000 'down' he should be near my payment with negotiation.
It's a shame the system/dealers make this so confusing but I guess they get to make more money on the unsuspecting folks that way.
Thanks for the clarification!!
Jay
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