New G37, Initial Thoughts
12-20-2009, 03:10 PM
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New G37, Initial Thoughts
I just thought I'd check in with some initial thoughts on my 2009 G37 Sedan Journey + Premium, purchased on 12/4. I traded in my 2006 G35 Sedan with sport suspension for it, and the bottom line is that I'm quite happy I did.
1. Break-in: I'm at 700 miles, and as usual the break-in period is painful. I remain paranoid about the usual noises and smells, and of course I'm dying to let 'er rip. So far I've managed to keep things under 4000 RPM for the most part, except for a few times when I've switch to manual mode on the highway and downshifted--it's not immediately apparent that the transmission shifts to 5th from 7th when the shifter is switched to the left. It would be nice if in addition to showing "DS" the current gear was also displayed. Downshifting to 4th at 80 MPH doesn't seem too terrible for a new engine, though, since even then RPMs don't exceed 5000. Lots of room remaining before redline.
I've wondered, however, what "avoid fast starts" means in this context. The G37 accelerates pretty quickly even if one never exceeds 4000 RPM, effortlessly leaving traffic behind at a light. I know it's easy to become paranoid (there's that word again) with a new vehicle, but it seems like the admonition to keep the engine under 4000 might not be sufficient if "avoiding fast starts" has any other meaning. Perhaps the Infiniti engineers really meant "avoid fast starts _for a G37_"?
2. Initial driving impressions: My wife loves the car, which is to say, she and I can take it out for a spin without her becoming carsick. I couldn't say the same for my '06 G35, which is one of the things that prompted the trade. The G37 is simply smoother, both in terms of the suspension, which is obvious and expected, but also in terms of overall acceleration patterns. Whereas in the G35 I need to get on it pretty strongly to achieve any reasonable velocity--which prompted complaints from my wife for "jerkiness"--the G37 is incredibly smooth in quick (but not overly quick, during the break-in!) starts. We drove to Hollywood yesterday via Laural Canyon Road, and the G37 was completely predictable and responsive both up and down the hill.
Suffice it to say that my wife loves the G37 where she could barely stomach (literally) the G35, and so I can drive it more often. And let me say that driving a G37 is immeasurably more pleasant than being a passenger in a Toyota Sienna. But I'm just stating the obvious.
3. Accoutrements: The interior of the G37 is much more comfortable than the '06 G35, in both real terms and psychologically. If one pays over $30K for a vehicle and isn't wealthy (i.e., is like me), then one wants to feel like one got something for one's money. The G35 didn't, the G37 does. Hence, driving the latter is not only more fun on a visceral level but also much more so mentally. Infiniti did a good thing when they upgraded the interior in 2007. The better stereo and trip computer are also definite plusses.
4. Initial concerns: None, really, at least none that I can confirm at this point. My G37 was built 10/09, and so I'm guessing that the updates for downshifts and engine noise were applied at the factory. I'm not noticing any issues with downshifting, and indeed I'm finding the transmission to be entirely rational in that respect. And while I do hear alot of what sounds like valve noise (i.e., I can definitely hear the engine from the engine compartment as opposed to the exhaust), I don't hear the helicopter sound that the TSB was about.
Regarding the transmission, one oddity that I've not been able to easily replicate but that has happened on a few occasions is this: when I accelerate to, say, 60 MPH and then hold it, the transmission gets "stuck" in whatever gear it's currently in. It takes a bit of distance and some firmer pressure on the gas to get the transmission to shift in whichever direction is needed. Doesn't happen all the time, though, so I'm wondering if the transmission is still just young and inexperienced and so has some growing up to do.
Again, as I mentioned at the beginning, I'm happy I traded in my '06 G35 for this one. I got an incredible deal on it, in part because the used car manager and sales manager crossed wires during negotiations and so I got more on my trade-in than I should have while paying less for the G37. Had I not gotten such a good deal, I can't say that trading in the G35 would have been _necessary_; it's not as if the G37 is _that_ much better of a car. But it's enough better that I'm happy in all the right places, and so buyer's remorse is at a minimum. It turns out that a G is a G is a G, only better, and that's a good thing overall.
1. Break-in: I'm at 700 miles, and as usual the break-in period is painful. I remain paranoid about the usual noises and smells, and of course I'm dying to let 'er rip. So far I've managed to keep things under 4000 RPM for the most part, except for a few times when I've switch to manual mode on the highway and downshifted--it's not immediately apparent that the transmission shifts to 5th from 7th when the shifter is switched to the left. It would be nice if in addition to showing "DS" the current gear was also displayed. Downshifting to 4th at 80 MPH doesn't seem too terrible for a new engine, though, since even then RPMs don't exceed 5000. Lots of room remaining before redline.
I've wondered, however, what "avoid fast starts" means in this context. The G37 accelerates pretty quickly even if one never exceeds 4000 RPM, effortlessly leaving traffic behind at a light. I know it's easy to become paranoid (there's that word again) with a new vehicle, but it seems like the admonition to keep the engine under 4000 might not be sufficient if "avoiding fast starts" has any other meaning. Perhaps the Infiniti engineers really meant "avoid fast starts _for a G37_"?
2. Initial driving impressions: My wife loves the car, which is to say, she and I can take it out for a spin without her becoming carsick. I couldn't say the same for my '06 G35, which is one of the things that prompted the trade. The G37 is simply smoother, both in terms of the suspension, which is obvious and expected, but also in terms of overall acceleration patterns. Whereas in the G35 I need to get on it pretty strongly to achieve any reasonable velocity--which prompted complaints from my wife for "jerkiness"--the G37 is incredibly smooth in quick (but not overly quick, during the break-in!) starts. We drove to Hollywood yesterday via Laural Canyon Road, and the G37 was completely predictable and responsive both up and down the hill.
Suffice it to say that my wife loves the G37 where she could barely stomach (literally) the G35, and so I can drive it more often. And let me say that driving a G37 is immeasurably more pleasant than being a passenger in a Toyota Sienna. But I'm just stating the obvious.
3. Accoutrements: The interior of the G37 is much more comfortable than the '06 G35, in both real terms and psychologically. If one pays over $30K for a vehicle and isn't wealthy (i.e., is like me), then one wants to feel like one got something for one's money. The G35 didn't, the G37 does. Hence, driving the latter is not only more fun on a visceral level but also much more so mentally. Infiniti did a good thing when they upgraded the interior in 2007. The better stereo and trip computer are also definite plusses.
4. Initial concerns: None, really, at least none that I can confirm at this point. My G37 was built 10/09, and so I'm guessing that the updates for downshifts and engine noise were applied at the factory. I'm not noticing any issues with downshifting, and indeed I'm finding the transmission to be entirely rational in that respect. And while I do hear alot of what sounds like valve noise (i.e., I can definitely hear the engine from the engine compartment as opposed to the exhaust), I don't hear the helicopter sound that the TSB was about.
Regarding the transmission, one oddity that I've not been able to easily replicate but that has happened on a few occasions is this: when I accelerate to, say, 60 MPH and then hold it, the transmission gets "stuck" in whatever gear it's currently in. It takes a bit of distance and some firmer pressure on the gas to get the transmission to shift in whichever direction is needed. Doesn't happen all the time, though, so I'm wondering if the transmission is still just young and inexperienced and so has some growing up to do.
Again, as I mentioned at the beginning, I'm happy I traded in my '06 G35 for this one. I got an incredible deal on it, in part because the used car manager and sales manager crossed wires during negotiations and so I got more on my trade-in than I should have while paying less for the G37. Had I not gotten such a good deal, I can't say that trading in the G35 would have been _necessary_; it's not as if the G37 is _that_ much better of a car. But it's enough better that I'm happy in all the right places, and so buyer's remorse is at a minimum. It turns out that a G is a G is a G, only better, and that's a good thing overall.
Last edited by wynand32; 12-20-2009 at 03:57 PM.
12-20-2009, 11:41 PM
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I think you worry WAY too much about the break-in. Many manufacturers actually dyno their cars before they leave the factory. aome sources even suggest that driving the car hard while new results in better sealing between the rings and cylinder walls, promoting increased cylinder pressure (more compression), and reduced oil consumption.
I say, drive the car however you are likely to drive it for most of it's life, and perhaps do the first oil change early, so that you can get some synthetic oil in the engine ASAP. Other than that, the car will not know the difference.
I say, drive the car however you are likely to drive it for most of it's life, and perhaps do the first oil change early, so that you can get some synthetic oil in the engine ASAP. Other than that, the car will not know the difference.
12-21-2009, 09:35 AM
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I'm of the same opinion. I think these break-in schedules are to limit liability. I can see why they suggest a 1,200 mile break in in a 330hp rear wheel drive car. It's more about the month of learning how to drive and getting used to a new car.
In my two week old G37S I am taking it easy and trying not to exceed the engine limits per the break-in schedule but sometimes it's tough.
In a former life I broke-in my race motor (Porsche 911) on the track where you can get proper back pressure (engine braking) which is vital for ring seating. Current new car break-in doesn't promote this. You need high RPM engine braking or long descent in gear to do this. If you ***** foot around for 1,200 miles you won't see any engine braking.
What conditioning does a braking system go through in 1,200 miles of easy driving? I understand normal pad bedding process but that can be done in 5-10 miles if done right and certainly cannot be done in 1,200 miles of low effort stops. There's also some thermal conditioning of the rotors, calipers and seals but that's a methodical process not a random series of low effort stops for 1,200 miles.
Again, I think what this is all about is Nissan wanting you to learn how to drive the car and understand it's quirks before you start to drive aggressively. It's also a time where you are looking at buttons, trying to find switches, getting your seat comfortable, and hearing new-to-you noises. They don't want you accelerating and braking hard with all of these other sensory inputs coming at you.
In my two week old G37S I am taking it easy and trying not to exceed the engine limits per the break-in schedule but sometimes it's tough.
In a former life I broke-in my race motor (Porsche 911) on the track where you can get proper back pressure (engine braking) which is vital for ring seating. Current new car break-in doesn't promote this. You need high RPM engine braking or long descent in gear to do this. If you ***** foot around for 1,200 miles you won't see any engine braking.
What conditioning does a braking system go through in 1,200 miles of easy driving? I understand normal pad bedding process but that can be done in 5-10 miles if done right and certainly cannot be done in 1,200 miles of low effort stops. There's also some thermal conditioning of the rotors, calipers and seals but that's a methodical process not a random series of low effort stops for 1,200 miles.
Again, I think what this is all about is Nissan wanting you to learn how to drive the car and understand it's quirks before you start to drive aggressively. It's also a time where you are looking at buttons, trying to find switches, getting your seat comfortable, and hearing new-to-you noises. They don't want you accelerating and braking hard with all of these other sensory inputs coming at you.
12-21-2009, 11:52 AM
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So far I've managed to keep things under 4000 RPM for the most part, except for a few times when I've switch to manual mode on the highway and downshifted--it's not immediately apparent that the transmission shifts to 5th from 7th when the shifter is switched to the left. It would be nice if in addition to showing "DS" the current gear was also displayed.
The top reasons I switch to manual mode:
1) I want to accelerate on the highway fairly aggressively, but I DO NOT want the automatic transmission to downshift
2) I am driving on twisty and/or hilly mid-speed roads and want to hold gears rather than letting the transmission make continuous needless shifts because it cannot see the road ahead and anticipate the proper useful gear for spirited driving
3) I am driving in heavy traffic, crawling along, and want to hold the car in (typically) second gear to again avoid the transmission shifting up and down and to give a bit more engine braking so I don't have to ride the brake pedal
NONE of these is facilitated by a shift to 4th gear (or 5th--which is it?) and two of them require a manual change back to the gear I was already in before the dumb programming switched the transmission to 4th gear. If driving at very high speeds, which I often do, the drop into 4th gear is borderline dangerous and highly annoying (and not good for the break-in period or if you want to baby your engine as noted above).
The only "logic" I can think of to justify this ridiculously poor design is the idea that people switch to manual when they want to pass someone on a two-lane highway, so it is pre-downshifting ready for you to gun it? Since every automatic transmission is explicity designed to automatically downshift when you need acceleration (just push the gas pedal is all that's required) and since even crappy old non-electronic transmissions from 30 or 40 years ago could easily accomplish this...I fail to see any purpose in the selection of 4th gear when moving to manual mode. I hope someone can educate me!
12-21-2009, 09:26 PM
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I'm of the same opinion. I think these break-in schedules are to limit liability. I can see why they suggest a 1,200 mile break in in a 330hp rear wheel drive car. It's more about the month of learning how to drive and getting used to a new car.
In my two week old G37S I am taking it easy and trying not to exceed the engine limits per the break-in schedule but sometimes it's tough.
In a former life I broke-in my race motor (Porsche 911) on the track where you can get proper back pressure (engine braking) which is vital for ring seating. Current new car break-in doesn't promote this. You need high RPM engine braking or long descent in gear to do this. If you ***** foot around for 1,200 miles you won't see any engine braking.
What conditioning does a braking system go through in 1,200 miles of easy driving? I understand normal pad bedding process but that can be done in 5-10 miles if done right and certainly cannot be done in 1,200 miles of low effort stops. There's also some thermal conditioning of the rotors, calipers and seals but that's a methodical process not a random series of low effort stops for 1,200 miles.
Again, I think what this is all about is Nissan wanting you to learn how to drive the car and understand it's quirks before you start to drive aggressively. It's also a time where you are looking at buttons, trying to find switches, getting your seat comfortable, and hearing new-to-you noises. They don't want you accelerating and braking hard with all of these other sensory inputs coming at you.
In my two week old G37S I am taking it easy and trying not to exceed the engine limits per the break-in schedule but sometimes it's tough.
In a former life I broke-in my race motor (Porsche 911) on the track where you can get proper back pressure (engine braking) which is vital for ring seating. Current new car break-in doesn't promote this. You need high RPM engine braking or long descent in gear to do this. If you ***** foot around for 1,200 miles you won't see any engine braking.
What conditioning does a braking system go through in 1,200 miles of easy driving? I understand normal pad bedding process but that can be done in 5-10 miles if done right and certainly cannot be done in 1,200 miles of low effort stops. There's also some thermal conditioning of the rotors, calipers and seals but that's a methodical process not a random series of low effort stops for 1,200 miles.
Again, I think what this is all about is Nissan wanting you to learn how to drive the car and understand it's quirks before you start to drive aggressively. It's also a time where you are looking at buttons, trying to find switches, getting your seat comfortable, and hearing new-to-you noises. They don't want you accelerating and braking hard with all of these other sensory inputs coming at you.
Good points. Liability, from the standpoint that a clueless driver might kill someone (or themselves) but not liability from the standpoint of replacing parts or performing repairs, has to be their logic. You are correct that it is best to heat cycle the brakes a few times before subjecting them to extreme use, but that is about the only part of a modern car that requires a break-in these days. My G37 is actually my wife's daily driver. mine is a company provided Toyota Rav4. I have been driving company cars for the last 14 years, and can tell you that NONE of the company car drivers break in their cars as though they were paying for them, and guess what? The toyotas are still unbelievably reiliable.
I can also tell you that those of us that drive more agressively tend to end up with cars that are quicker and run better. About the only downside, is that I do use up tires and brake pads slightly quicker than some of the other drivers, but common sense would tell you that.
12-22-2009, 12:48 PM
#6
Can anyone explain the illogic of this to me? All European cars I have owned and driven remain in the current gear (whatever that happens to be) when you switch from automatic to manual mode. You are then free to do whatever you want based on why you switched to manual in the first place. What possible sense is there in pre-programming the manual mode to a certain gear the way the Japanese manufacturers do?
The top reasons I switch to manual mode:
1) I want to accelerate on the highway fairly aggressively, but I DO NOT want the automatic transmission to downshift
2) I am driving on twisty and/or hilly mid-speed roads and want to hold gears rather than letting the transmission make continuous needless shifts because it cannot see the road ahead and anticipate the proper useful gear for spirited driving
3) I am driving in heavy traffic, crawling along, and want to hold the car in (typically) second gear to again avoid the transmission shifting up and down and to give a bit more engine braking so I don't have to ride the brake pedal
NONE of these is facilitated by a shift to 4th gear (or 5th--which is it?) and two of them require a manual change back to the gear I was already in before the dumb programming switched the transmission to 4th gear. If driving at very high speeds, which I often do, the drop into 4th gear is borderline dangerous and highly annoying (and not good for the break-in period or if you want to baby your engine as noted above).
The only "logic" I can think of to justify this ridiculously poor design is the idea that people switch to manual when they want to pass someone on a two-lane highway, so it is pre-downshifting ready for you to gun it? Since every automatic transmission is explicity designed to automatically downshift when you need acceleration (just push the gas pedal is all that's required) and since even crappy old non-electronic transmissions from 30 or 40 years ago could easily accomplish this...I fail to see any purpose in the selection of 4th gear when moving to manual mode. I hope someone can educate me!
The top reasons I switch to manual mode:
1) I want to accelerate on the highway fairly aggressively, but I DO NOT want the automatic transmission to downshift
2) I am driving on twisty and/or hilly mid-speed roads and want to hold gears rather than letting the transmission make continuous needless shifts because it cannot see the road ahead and anticipate the proper useful gear for spirited driving
3) I am driving in heavy traffic, crawling along, and want to hold the car in (typically) second gear to again avoid the transmission shifting up and down and to give a bit more engine braking so I don't have to ride the brake pedal
NONE of these is facilitated by a shift to 4th gear (or 5th--which is it?) and two of them require a manual change back to the gear I was already in before the dumb programming switched the transmission to 4th gear. If driving at very high speeds, which I often do, the drop into 4th gear is borderline dangerous and highly annoying (and not good for the break-in period or if you want to baby your engine as noted above).
The only "logic" I can think of to justify this ridiculously poor design is the idea that people switch to manual when they want to pass someone on a two-lane highway, so it is pre-downshifting ready for you to gun it? Since every automatic transmission is explicity designed to automatically downshift when you need acceleration (just push the gas pedal is all that's required) and since even crappy old non-electronic transmissions from 30 or 40 years ago could easily accomplish this...I fail to see any purpose in the selection of 4th gear when moving to manual mode. I hope someone can educate me!
12-22-2009, 02:10 PM
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NONE of these is facilitated by a shift to 4th gear (or 5th--which is it?) and two of them require a manual change back to the gear I was already in before the dumb programming switched the transmission to 4th gear. If driving at very high speeds, which I often do, the drop into 4th gear is borderline dangerous and highly annoying (and not good for the break-in period or if you want to baby your engine as noted above).
However, I don't think I'd want the transmission to stay in 7th gear, because I can't imagine a situation where I'd want to manually shift for any reason other than quicker/more manageable acceleration. And at normal speeds, that means 4th or lower gear. With a true manual I could go straight from 7th to 4th, of course, but with the electronic manual I'd have to downshift three times to get where I want to be.
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12-22-2009, 04:24 PM
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I think it's definitely 5th gear, and really I don't so much mind the downshift. I just wasn't expecting it, and so it was me who downshifted to 4th (and the downshift wasn't dangerous or even annoying _outside of_ the break-in). In many cases, 5th with this car provide sufficient acceleration, and so I don't downshift now that I know that's what gear I'm in.
However, I don't think I'd want the transmission to stay in 7th gear, because I can't imagine a situation where I'd want to manually shift for any reason other than quicker/more manageable acceleration. And at normal speeds, that means 4th or lower gear. With a true manual I could go straight from 7th to 4th, of course, but with the electronic manual I'd have to downshift three times to get where I want to be.
However, I don't think I'd want the transmission to stay in 7th gear, because I can't imagine a situation where I'd want to manually shift for any reason other than quicker/more manageable acceleration. And at normal speeds, that means 4th or lower gear. With a true manual I could go straight from 7th to 4th, of course, but with the electronic manual I'd have to downshift three times to get where I want to be.
12-22-2009, 04:45 PM
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But you realize it is putting you in 5th no matter what you are already doing or what you want to do? And if you want to accelerate and/or pass someone are you saying the Infiniti tranny is so incompetent it won't do that on its own just by pressing the accelerator? I hope everyone knows that you don't get any quicker acceleration by shifting manually...although it is a common misconception.
And no, I'm not saying the transmission won't downshift if I press on the accelerator, and I understand completely that the auto can shift faster than I can. Typically I use manual when I simply want more control and more manageable acceleration. Maybe it's just me, but I like the car's response if I'm already in 4th, let's say (and yes, already at higher RPMs), than if I'm in 6th and press on the accelerator to force a downshift.
This is for predictable traffic, of course. If it's completely ad hoc, then certainly I'm find with letting the auto do its work. I particularly like how it responds when in DS, although I don't like how DS holds lower gears "too long" and so I've been driving mostly in D so far.
As an aside, it's interesting that I bought said '06 G35 because I didn't like the throttle and/or transmission lag I experienced when test-driving a Mustang GT that I was going to buy. I simply had to stomp too hard on the gas to get the thing to go (although it really did go once it got started), and I liked the quicker response of the G35 and the ability to pick my gear. Sometimes I just liked to drive around in the G35 in 3rd gear--it provided the ability to really manage my speed while keeping RPMs in line. I'm finding 4th gear to do the same thing in the G37.
Last edited by wynand32; 12-22-2009 at 04:56 PM.
12-22-2009, 05:25 PM
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I think some are getting switching from "D" to "DS" confused with touching the paddles to switch to manual mode.
I have found that the transmission DOES downshift when switched to "DS" so the car will be more responsive to throttle inputs. This doesn't mean you have to manually shift the car. If you want to then pull a paddle and let her rip!
You can manually shift the car with the dransmission still in "D", I do it all the time. You can pull the right paddle to switch to manual mode and see what gear you are currently in. OR, you can pull the left paddle once (or multiple) times if you are setting up for a corner/curve or are anticipating a hole in traffic that you want to shoot thru. After the curve or away from traffic I then pull the right paddle several times to make sure it's in the top gear and after a few seconds the transmission reverts to D.
Anyone else try this?
I have found that the transmission DOES downshift when switched to "DS" so the car will be more responsive to throttle inputs. This doesn't mean you have to manually shift the car. If you want to then pull a paddle and let her rip!
You can manually shift the car with the dransmission still in "D", I do it all the time. You can pull the right paddle to switch to manual mode and see what gear you are currently in. OR, you can pull the left paddle once (or multiple) times if you are setting up for a corner/curve or are anticipating a hole in traffic that you want to shoot thru. After the curve or away from traffic I then pull the right paddle several times to make sure it's in the top gear and after a few seconds the transmission reverts to D.
Anyone else try this?
12-22-2009, 05:28 PM
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I think some are getting switching from "D" to "DS" confused with touching the paddles to switch to manual mode.
I have found that the transmission DOES downshift when switched to "DS" so the car will be more responsive to throttle inputs. This doesn't mean you have to manually shift the car. If you want to then pull a paddle and let her rip!
You can manually shift the car with the dransmission still in "D", I do it all the time. You can pull the right paddle to switch to manual mode and see what gear you are currently in. OR, you can pull the left paddle once (or multiple) times if you are setting up for a corner/curve or are anticipating a hole in traffic that you want to shoot thru. After the curve or away from traffic I then pull the right paddle several times to make sure it's in the top gear and after a few seconds the transmission reverts to D.
Anyone else try this?
I have found that the transmission DOES downshift when switched to "DS" so the car will be more responsive to throttle inputs. This doesn't mean you have to manually shift the car. If you want to then pull a paddle and let her rip!
You can manually shift the car with the dransmission still in "D", I do it all the time. You can pull the right paddle to switch to manual mode and see what gear you are currently in. OR, you can pull the left paddle once (or multiple) times if you are setting up for a corner/curve or are anticipating a hole in traffic that you want to shoot thru. After the curve or away from traffic I then pull the right paddle several times to make sure it's in the top gear and after a few seconds the transmission reverts to D.
Anyone else try this?
I didn't realize, though, that you could manual shift with the paddles in either mode, so that's news. Makes the paddle shifters a bit more attractive than I'd realized, but alas--it's too late for me.
12-22-2009, 05:36 PM
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Just to clarify, mine isn't a Sport model and so I don't have paddle shifters. The only way to manually shift is therefore to switch to manual mode, which is also DS. I know this isn't what you're saying, but it might be a bit confusing without some clarification.
I didn't realize, though, that you could manual shift with the paddles in either mode, so that's news. Makes the paddle shifters a bit more attractive than I'd realized, but alas--it's too late for me.
I didn't realize, though, that you could manual shift with the paddles in either mode, so that's news. Makes the paddle shifters a bit more attractive than I'd realized, but alas--it's too late for me.
My bad, I didn't realize it was a non sport. So, does the display show the current gear as soon as you pull the shifter over into DS? Or, does the display show DS and doesn't show a gear until you push or pull the gear shift?
12-22-2009, 05:49 PM
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It doesn't actually show the gear until you manually shift.
12-22-2009, 06:19 PM
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I just ordered the G37Xs so I'm not speaking from experience but my guess based on spec's I read is that the highest DS goes is 5th gear. 6th and 7th are overdrive gears which are usually omitted in sport mode. My A6 has a 6 speed and 6th is not available in S mode. I'm pretty sure if your in 5th or lower in drive it will stay there in DS. Those of you who have the car please advise!!!!!!
12-22-2009, 06:39 PM
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I just ordered the G37Xs so I'm not speaking from experience but my guess based on spec's I read is that the highest DS goes is 5th gear. 6th and 7th are overdrive gears which are usually omitted in sport mode. My A6 has a 6 speed and 6th is not available in S mode. I'm pretty sure if your in 5th or lower in drive it will stay there in DS. Those of you who have the car please advise!!!!!!