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Ill give that a go as well but it feels more like consistant heating up versus hot pockets but it doesn't hurt to try that as well i guess. Ill be glad when this heating problem is solved so i can get back to tackling the loss of low end power.
Alrighty so i burped the system (i did manage to get some air bubbles to come up at least ) but no dice on the fans kicking on. I gave them 20 mins. Coolant is at 208f and oil at 180f. I dont want to overheat the car so i shut her down now.
My new rad cap shows up monday but im thinking i may as well order a thermostat and then the engine coolant temp sensor if fans still dont kick on after the new thermostat . This car is is a 2010 with 55k miles.
Still trying to figure out why your fans aren't kicking in...
What does the idiot gauge on the dash read?
Is the hose at the thermostat REALLY HOT or warm/tepid to the touch? Is the hose firm (like it is pressurized) or "squishy?' If you have a helper, have them lightly blip the throttle while you are grasping the hose. You should be able to feel the coolant pulsing through the hose.
If you have a digital multimeter you could check the temp sensor:
Idiot gauge reads halfway.
a
At coolant temp 195 (torque app) both hoses from the rad get to the same temp so im assuming my thermostat is okay. Im thinking my ect sensor should be good too because i AM getting a reading from torque app so my ecu is registering coolant temp. Im not dismissing the ect sensor as a culprit though.
Im thinking fan relays right now as the next step.Then back to what i can do about the ect sensor.
I can turn on my a.c. to drop my temp abit since my fans will turn on but im still not driving the car until i get this sorted.
Is the car actually overheating? The general consensus is that these engines typically run anywhere from 190-210°F. Anything above approx. 220°F would be a potential red flag.
So far everything checks out good: ECT, fan module, PWM (fan) relay, fans. I hate to beat a dead horse into the ground, but the last culprit is the ECM. The ECM sends the PWM signal to the fans based on temperature and other input data. If the reflash changed some of those parameters then the fan behavior may change.
Unless the car is exhibiting clear signs of overheating I would drive it around the block a few times and see how it behaves.
Basically on Friday driving normal and shifting at 3300 i was experiencing temps the same and above i was experiencing at the track. At the track i was redlining 1,2,3rd and going into 4th on the straight. Driving very fast and spirited.
I know my cars normal temps and these temps im giving you is the car just idling. The other night i reached 210f coolant while idling. (Im canadian btw so its cold here at night now.)
This is all since friday. Ive owned this car since November and this is the first time ive seen these temps while idling. They keep climbing until i shut the car off. I may take her for a short drive since its pretty cold tonight but the fact that the fans dont kick on is definitely troublesome.
Trust me you have been a big help guiding me through steps of trouble shooting. I appreciate it lol
Hell you have been offering tips since my thread started about power loss and kept going while this developed into an over heating issue. Much appreciated, id ship you a bottle of something if i could lol
Ill just keep trouble shooting, eventually ill figure it out im sure. If I don't, im taking it to that nissan specialty performance shop. I just would like to try and solved on my own first. (Especially to see if my other issues were ecm related)
Last edited by TheDevilsG; 09-08-2019 at 08:35 PM.
Reason: Adding info
I am having trouble trying to figure out where the ect sensor is though.. ive checked online a bunch and seems not many people have tapped into this. I only found info on the g35 (single throttle body vq)
#25 in the above diagram is for the ECT Sensor. You will have to remove the engine cover. The sensor is not the easiest to get access to but is doable.
09-07-2019, 02:11 AM
