How accurate is this video
#31
I've seen it on those platforms but not on our cars. I'd be curious to see what it all entailed just to do a direct motor and FI swap of the GTR or Red Sport. Probably a nightmare and people will say why even do it but if I'm wrong about the nightmare part and a swap and tune is even around 10k that would set you up from a straight WHP power standpoint over a turbo set-up on our car and hoping it doesn't pop the motor or knowing a built motor is in your future. Then again, doesn't the 3.0t require some building once 600 AWHP is reached? So if you stay under that, your motor is basically good to go in terms of reliability. Just would be a built transmission, brakes, and suspension so another 6k? Puts you at roughly 16k for the complete build? That would give you a reliable, drive-able vehicle without worrying about a blown motor or trans.
I'm completely shooting in the dark here if that hasn't been deduced yet but figured I'd throw it out there for discussion or to be dismantled; in which case, I'll quietly sit back down..
I'm completely shooting in the dark here if that hasn't been deduced yet but figured I'd throw it out there for discussion or to be dismantled; in which case, I'll quietly sit back down..
#32
Then you do agree with what I said that this is all irrelevant because most of us do not step into a platform with the mindset of going ***** to the wall; we gradually reach a point where we decide to either change to another platform or push to the edge.
#33
dump all that money into power mods into a G, but you'll never see it when you go to sell it .... don't forget about resale value.
personally, i would never buy a "modded to the ragged edge" car, because you know its been driven "very enthusiastically". any performance car i buy is bone stock. who knows what kind of nitwit installed the parts? i don't want to take the risk someone cut corners and didn't do things properly.
personally, i would never buy a "modded to the ragged edge" car, because you know its been driven "very enthusiastically". any performance car i buy is bone stock. who knows what kind of nitwit installed the parts? i don't want to take the risk someone cut corners and didn't do things properly.
Last edited by ttv36; 06-13-2017 at 11:14 AM.
#34
Agreed. If you mod to that extent you're in it for the long haul with the complete understanding you will never see a return on the amount of work put into the build. Your niche of buyers is also slim to none and only an enthusiast who just wants a car that is 100% ready to rock and roll will really want it....or a really inexperienced teen in which I'd be reluctant to sell since I don't want that life on my conscience.
#36
I've seen it on those platforms but not on our cars. I'd be curious to see what it all entailed just to do a direct motor and FI swap of the GTR or Red Sport. Probably a nightmare and people will say why even do it but if I'm wrong about the nightmare part and a swap and tune is even around 10k that would set you up from a straight WHP power standpoint over a turbo set-up on our car and hoping it doesn't pop the motor or knowing a built motor is in your future. Then again, doesn't the 3.0t require some building once 600 AWHP is reached? So if you stay under that, your motor is basically good to go in terms of reliability. Just would be a built transmission, brakes, and suspension so another 6k? Puts you at roughly 16k for the complete build? That would give you a reliable, drive-able vehicle without worrying about a blown motor or trans.
I'm completely shooting in the dark here if that hasn't been deduced yet but figured I'd throw it out there for discussion or to be dismantled; in which case, I'll quietly sit back down..
I'm completely shooting in the dark here if that hasn't been deduced yet but figured I'd throw it out there for discussion or to be dismantled; in which case, I'll quietly sit back down..
I wouldnt consider the Vr30tt to be a bad swap at all if it wasn't for the lack of aftermarket support due to it being so new. It's pretty underrated from factory and I heard with just a tune the gains are pretty considerable on that engine. You could really have the best of both worlds by keeping the amazing hydraulic steering of the G37 and having it in a boosted setup. Yeah I would assume those turbos would be good for around 450-500whp, correct me if I'm wrong, but I doubt it would take much money to get there once you have that setup
#37
it will probably be alot cheaper upgrading an already factory twin turbo engine compared to upgrading an originally NA/non-turbo VQ to turbo.
Although many people have done this and are quite happy, creating pretty Badass G37's.
Although many people have done this and are quite happy, creating pretty Badass G37's.
#38
I've had one or two mod-friendly cars with very little done to them. A good example would be my Evo. I did almost nothing to that car and drove it for over 50K miles. Was totally happy with it and I didn't really desire all the big ticket items.
On the other hand, my RX7 responded so well to mods, and had such a higher performance threshold, the sky was the limit. And I dumped a ton of money into that car as a result. That car was a build in progress from the start mostly due to less free money and me not wanting to go through engines like potato chips. There's somewhat of a steep learning curve and a sharp drop-off with that car. It pays dividends to work up to the big stuff slowly.
I've already started researching my next vehicle even though I'm at least a year out realistically. Whatever car I choose, it'll be more "mod friendly", have wider support from quality vendors and a larger, more experienced community. Bang for the buck will be high up there too as will an initial higher performance envelope when completely stock. And I have specific performance metrics too so I can quantify my choices.
As for the BP kit, I didn't realize it came with larger injectors, lines and a fuel pump. I thought that was extra. Not of the kits come with a necessary larger oil cooler kit. I don't think many BP guys are running the stock clutch/flywheel combo without a CSC delete. You could forego all of those things but it'd be less than optimal. I also can't imagine driving a car with that turbo kit around on a daily basis given the location of the turbo and filter. And without mods to increase traction, it all seems rather pointless. Sure, you can do it but it wouldn't be a good idea.
#39
I will say this, if everything is identical to the Red Sport except for the optical sensors, the Silver Sport will be the way to go if you're hogging out the stock turbo housings for new internals. No reason to spend the extra $5K for optical sensors, wider wheels, exhaust tips and badges. That'll all get replaced anyway. Stock for stock you're getting 100hp with a warranty but if you're modding the turbos, that's out the window.
Edit: Looks like the RS has additional intercooler hardware (two pumps vs. one?) but probably not too hard to add or improve on the SS.
I'm going to guess AMS will come out with Q60 turbos first and I'm willing to bet the pair will be at least $5K unless the GTR rule is in full effect (add $2K then). Add in the initial higher cost for the car and the same costs for transmission mods, one might not come out ahead.
The VR has proven itself in the hp dept. and as long as mods are done properly, it's reliable. Not sure if the new 3.0 will be safe at 500+ wheel hp. Time will tell! I'd definitely be proud to own a maxed out twin turbo beast (like yours Tony) but speaking personally, it doesn't make sense.
Edit: I'll just leave this here: http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...0-blew-up.html
Last edited by Ape Factory; 06-16-2017 at 08:00 AM.
#40
My condolences to the Above mentioned Z that popped it's turbo boosted VQ. He said the rods weren't replaced with stronger ones causing the engine to fall apart.
You can't take chances with custom turbo builds. If you are going for those higher horse power numbers you would need to build your engine accordingly or expect it to fall apart sooner or later. And even then it's a risk, there's always a risk in the aftermarket mods scene. Because you are obviously altering the manufacturers original engineering and throwing it out of whack regardless of platform.
So you would need to ensure all known weak components are upgraded.
If you're going to turbo boost the vq or VR for more power, buy used, get the cheapest G/Q you can. Don't buy it brand new and then start a turbo build. That is a lot of money, huge investment. If you are buying them for their factory grand touring purpose then go ahead buy new or lease, or for light mods.
I have a lot of respect for those that do modify their cars the right way, matching the performance with appropriate build parts, boosting and modifying their cars the proper way and the safe way.
You can't take chances with custom turbo builds. If you are going for those higher horse power numbers you would need to build your engine accordingly or expect it to fall apart sooner or later. And even then it's a risk, there's always a risk in the aftermarket mods scene. Because you are obviously altering the manufacturers original engineering and throwing it out of whack regardless of platform.
So you would need to ensure all known weak components are upgraded.
If you're going to turbo boost the vq or VR for more power, buy used, get the cheapest G/Q you can. Don't buy it brand new and then start a turbo build. That is a lot of money, huge investment. If you are buying them for their factory grand touring purpose then go ahead buy new or lease, or for light mods.
I have a lot of respect for those that do modify their cars the right way, matching the performance with appropriate build parts, boosting and modifying their cars the proper way and the safe way.
Last edited by gill1606; 06-17-2017 at 06:29 PM.