G37 Coupe

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Old 06-13-2017 | 09:00 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by gill1606
people have done it to the Silvias: S13, S15 etc
I've seen it on those platforms but not on our cars. I'd be curious to see what it all entailed just to do a direct motor and FI swap of the GTR or Red Sport. Probably a nightmare and people will say why even do it but if I'm wrong about the nightmare part and a swap and tune is even around 10k that would set you up from a straight WHP power standpoint over a turbo set-up on our car and hoping it doesn't pop the motor or knowing a built motor is in your future. Then again, doesn't the 3.0t require some building once 600 AWHP is reached? So if you stay under that, your motor is basically good to go in terms of reliability. Just would be a built transmission, brakes, and suspension so another 6k? Puts you at roughly 16k for the complete build? That would give you a reliable, drive-able vehicle without worrying about a blown motor or trans.

I'm completely shooting in the dark here if that hasn't been deduced yet but figured I'd throw it out there for discussion or to be dismantled; in which case, I'll quietly sit back down..
Old 06-13-2017 | 10:40 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Ape Factory
The BP kit isn't complete either and there's a lot of supporting mods necessary to have a long-term reliable setup. One would still want to do the brakes, suspension, wheels/tires and differential. All of that alone can easily cost around $7K to do it properly.
Originally Posted by Yellafella
you need 20k just to have the Vq37 boosted on low psi for 500 or so hp.
I was replying to his comment that you need 20k to have a low psi 500+whp VQ, which is not true. A low psi VQ with 500+ whp can be done with a BP Single Turbo kit for 8k and installed on jack stands. However, how long it would stay on the pavement would depend on the skill and courage of the driver.

Originally Posted by Ape Factory
To run E85, you'll need an E85 specific fuel kit. There's actually the potential to do more damage with OEM internals on E85 vs. pump due to the increase in torque.
Not a specific kit is needed for E85 there are only 3 things needed to run E85 - bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump, and a return line. The only thing not included in the BP kit would be a return fuel line. Usually the torque is controlled by the tune to help with the strength limitations of the stock rods.

Originally Posted by Ape Factory
And the BP kit won't install on a 7AT car sadly. I don't think it comes with injectors, rails and a new pump nor an oil cooler. Then you'll need a tune.
Remember this meandering is all hypothetical for someone starting from scratch and purchasing a VQ with 500+ whp in mind. If anyone is trying to make that kind of power out of a 7AT they should research the limitations well before.

Originally Posted by Ape Factory
I guess it boils down to what camp you're in. If it's a long-term commitment with the car, it makes more sense. If it's going to be a shorter commitment, I would just save money to use on a more mod-friendly car.
Then you do agree with what I said that this is all irrelevant because most of us do not step into a platform with the mindset of going ***** to the wall; we gradually reach a point where we decide to either change to another platform or push to the edge.
Old 06-13-2017 | 10:44 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Yellafella
Never heard of it. How much power can it push out? I wasn't talking about engine reliability. I was talking about other parts in the G. And that's on E85. I was talking about pump gas. Anything over 600whp you would have to start building the block.
I know 3 BP kitted cars local to Houston all on stock blocks. Two on pump gas are doing 550+whp and the third hit 700+ on E85.

Originally Posted by Landshark
dump all that money into power mods into a G, but you'll never see it when you go to sell it .... don't forget about resale value.

personally, i would never buy a "modded to the ragged edge" car, because you know its been driven "very enthusiastically". any performance car i buy is bone stock. who knows what kind of nitwit installed the parts? i don't want to take the risk someone cut corners and didn't do things properly.
Sorry, but resale is not of the slightest concern to anyone considering modding a car to the ragged edge. That usually is thrown out way before they decide to begin their path down the slippery slope.

Last edited by ttv36; 06-13-2017 at 11:14 AM.
Old 06-13-2017 | 02:16 PM
  #34  
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Agreed. If you mod to that extent you're in it for the long haul with the complete understanding you will never see a return on the amount of work put into the build. Your niche of buyers is also slim to none and only an enthusiast who just wants a car that is 100% ready to rock and roll will really want it....or a really inexperienced teen in which I'd be reluctant to sell since I don't want that life on my conscience.
Old 06-13-2017 | 02:48 PM
  #35  
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You guys know we're arguing about the fact that the G37 is a racecar/dragcar and a great "tuner" platform to mod right?
Old 06-13-2017 | 03:11 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by RMB5190
I've seen it on those platforms but not on our cars. I'd be curious to see what it all entailed just to do a direct motor and FI swap of the GTR or Red Sport. Probably a nightmare and people will say why even do it but if I'm wrong about the nightmare part and a swap and tune is even around 10k that would set you up from a straight WHP power standpoint over a turbo set-up on our car and hoping it doesn't pop the motor or knowing a built motor is in your future. Then again, doesn't the 3.0t require some building once 600 AWHP is reached? So if you stay under that, your motor is basically good to go in terms of reliability. Just would be a built transmission, brakes, and suspension so another 6k? Puts you at roughly 16k for the complete build? That would give you a reliable, drive-able vehicle without worrying about a blown motor or trans.

I'm completely shooting in the dark here if that hasn't been deduced yet but figured I'd throw it out there for discussion or to be dismantled; in which case, I'll quietly sit back down..
Well, how often does one even see a motorswap in a G37 to begin with? Yeah I guess anything could be done with X amount of money. But why a G37 unless you really loved it wanted to be different. Unless you're young and your father didn't approve of you buying a manual 370Z (I convinced him the G37 was slow and "mature" car) (Yes this car is trickling down to us yungins like the G35C).

I wouldnt consider the Vr30tt to be a bad swap at all if it wasn't for the lack of aftermarket support due to it being so new. It's pretty underrated from factory and I heard with just a tune the gains are pretty considerable on that engine. You could really have the best of both worlds by keeping the amazing hydraulic steering of the G37 and having it in a boosted setup. Yeah I would assume those turbos would be good for around 450-500whp, correct me if I'm wrong, but I doubt it would take much money to get there once you have that setup
Old 06-14-2017 | 08:52 PM
  #37  
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From: skyline boulevard
it will probably be alot cheaper upgrading an already factory twin turbo engine compared to upgrading an originally NA/non-turbo VQ to turbo.

Although many people have done this and are quite happy, creating pretty Badass G37's.
Old 06-14-2017 | 11:15 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by ttv36
Then you do agree with what I said that this is all irrelevant because most of us do not step into a platform with the mindset of going ***** to the wall; we gradually reach a point where we decide to either change to another platform or push to the edge.
Yeah I agree to a point. Like I said earlier, if I'd purchased say a 370Z Nismo instead, I would have gone forced induction right off the bat. I know most wouldn't. I think once you have a few cars under your belt and move up the social ladder, more long term planning comes into play before even purchasing a car along with more research (thanks to the internet). It's possible to jump into a platform eyes wide open as long as you're honest with what you really want and can afford it.

I've had one or two mod-friendly cars with very little done to them. A good example would be my Evo. I did almost nothing to that car and drove it for over 50K miles. Was totally happy with it and I didn't really desire all the big ticket items.

On the other hand, my RX7 responded so well to mods, and had such a higher performance threshold, the sky was the limit. And I dumped a ton of money into that car as a result. That car was a build in progress from the start mostly due to less free money and me not wanting to go through engines like potato chips. There's somewhat of a steep learning curve and a sharp drop-off with that car. It pays dividends to work up to the big stuff slowly.

I've already started researching my next vehicle even though I'm at least a year out realistically. Whatever car I choose, it'll be more "mod friendly", have wider support from quality vendors and a larger, more experienced community. Bang for the buck will be high up there too as will an initial higher performance envelope when completely stock. And I have specific performance metrics too so I can quantify my choices.

As for the BP kit, I didn't realize it came with larger injectors, lines and a fuel pump. I thought that was extra. Not of the kits come with a necessary larger oil cooler kit. I don't think many BP guys are running the stock clutch/flywheel combo without a CSC delete. You could forego all of those things but it'd be less than optimal. I also can't imagine driving a car with that turbo kit around on a daily basis given the location of the turbo and filter. And without mods to increase traction, it all seems rather pointless. Sure, you can do it but it wouldn't be a good idea.
Old 06-14-2017 | 11:41 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by gill1606
it will probably be alot cheaper upgrading an already factory twin turbo engine compared to upgrading an originally NA/non-turbo VQ to turbo.

Although many people have done this and are quite happy, creating pretty Badass G37's.
I think Red Sport or even the Silver Sport dropping into the low $30K range is a few years out yet. It has the same transmission as the G37, same chassis, brakes and problem with weight. So for "serious" mods, it'll require new turbo internals (compressor and turbine) in the stock housings, transmission fortification, ECU tuning, brakes, an LSD (2wd), wider wheels, exhaust mods, etc...so it's not necessarily a better platform as Nissan has essentially given us a maxed out engine (from a turbo perspective) in the same car with bold new bodywork.

I will say this, if everything is identical to the Red Sport except for the optical sensors, the Silver Sport will be the way to go if you're hogging out the stock turbo housings for new internals. No reason to spend the extra $5K for optical sensors, wider wheels, exhaust tips and badges. That'll all get replaced anyway. Stock for stock you're getting 100hp with a warranty but if you're modding the turbos, that's out the window.

Edit: Looks like the RS has additional intercooler hardware (two pumps vs. one?) but probably not too hard to add or improve on the SS.

I'm going to guess AMS will come out with Q60 turbos first and I'm willing to bet the pair will be at least $5K unless the GTR rule is in full effect (add $2K then). Add in the initial higher cost for the car and the same costs for transmission mods, one might not come out ahead.

The VR has proven itself in the hp dept. and as long as mods are done properly, it's reliable. Not sure if the new 3.0 will be safe at 500+ wheel hp. Time will tell! I'd definitely be proud to own a maxed out twin turbo beast (like yours Tony) but speaking personally, it doesn't make sense.

Edit: I'll just leave this here: http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...0-blew-up.html

Last edited by Ape Factory; 06-16-2017 at 08:00 AM.
Old 06-17-2017 | 05:07 PM
  #40  
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From: skyline boulevard
My condolences to the Above mentioned Z that popped it's turbo boosted VQ. He said the rods weren't replaced with stronger ones causing the engine to fall apart.

You can't take chances with custom turbo builds. If you are going for those higher horse power numbers you would need to build your engine accordingly or expect it to fall apart sooner or later. And even then it's a risk, there's always a risk in the aftermarket mods scene. Because you are obviously altering the manufacturers original engineering and throwing it out of whack regardless of platform.

So you would need to ensure all known weak components are upgraded.

If you're going to turbo boost the vq or VR for more power, buy used, get the cheapest G/Q you can. Don't buy it brand new and then start a turbo build. That is a lot of money, huge investment. If you are buying them for their factory grand touring purpose then go ahead buy new or lease, or for light mods.

I have a lot of respect for those that do modify their cars the right way, matching the performance with appropriate build parts, boosting and modifying their cars the proper way and the safe way.

Last edited by gill1606; 06-17-2017 at 06:29 PM.




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