Totaled?
#31
Could be figuring if there is any harnesses ripped to pieces. That hidden damage will get you every time. I remember when I smashed my Mazda they never even popped the hood when they did the estimates....Quite the surprise when they tacked on an additional 5k when the second appraisal was done.
#33
Possibly to the taillight(s) and sensors. I'm assuming here, but when I hit the deer my radiator support snapped and shredded my MAF harness and decimated my headlight and all the plugs and fittings behind it. That's what jacked my repair costs sky high and that might be what you're looking at.
I was in college and took the opportunity to work on the car myself and, while not bad for a college kid who was turning a wrench for the first time, the car never drove the same. I didn't have frame damage but I'm sure there was other stuff in the engine bay that was FUBAR and I just missed it.
If I were you, I'd buy outright and fix as much myself as I could and let a pro handle what was way out of my league. Yella had a much worse looking car (no offense) and it came out pretty damn good for "half-***" .
You can do the trunk, bumper, headlight removal yourself along with anything under the car like the exhaust, sway removal, etc... Doing all that yourself will save you a couple (2-4) K in labor cost at least. Have a pro do the frame work, electrical and paint. I think your biggest gut check moment will be when you look under the car. Be honest with yourself if it looks bad under there. From the looks of it though, that estimate seems really high.
If you decide to total it though....there is a red G37S 6MT in my state pending if you feel like traveling. They're asking 14,900 and it has 78,000 miles
I was in college and took the opportunity to work on the car myself and, while not bad for a college kid who was turning a wrench for the first time, the car never drove the same. I didn't have frame damage but I'm sure there was other stuff in the engine bay that was FUBAR and I just missed it.
If I were you, I'd buy outright and fix as much myself as I could and let a pro handle what was way out of my league. Yella had a much worse looking car (no offense) and it came out pretty damn good for "half-***" .
You can do the trunk, bumper, headlight removal yourself along with anything under the car like the exhaust, sway removal, etc... Doing all that yourself will save you a couple (2-4) K in labor cost at least. Have a pro do the frame work, electrical and paint. I think your biggest gut check moment will be when you look under the car. Be honest with yourself if it looks bad under there. From the looks of it though, that estimate seems really high.
If you decide to total it though....there is a red G37S 6MT in my state pending if you feel like traveling. They're asking 14,900 and it has 78,000 miles
#34
I'm not a professional, but underneath the car looks okay, appraiser also didn't see any damage either. Car drove fine as well, just heard rubbing on my tire. All doors closes fine as well. My tail light ring works, but the signals don't. The wiring for the license plate it's fine as well. I checks, the wires aren't snagged was a clean disconnect lol. I have zero mechanical abilities, so all would be done through a shop. I definitely don't feel it's 15k tho
#35
Possibly to the taillight(s) and sensors. I'm assuming here, but when I hit the deer my radiator support snapped and shredded my MAF harness and decimated my headlight and all the plugs and fittings behind it. That's what jacked my repair costs sky high and that might be what you're looking at.
I was in college and took the opportunity to work on the car myself and, while not bad for a college kid who was turning a wrench for the first time, the car never drove the same. I didn't have frame damage but I'm sure there was other stuff in the engine bay that was FUBAR and I just missed it.
If I were you, I'd buy outright and fix as much myself as I could and let a pro handle what was way out of my league. Yella had a much worse looking car (no offense) and it came out pretty damn good for "half-***" .
You can do the trunk, bumper, headlight removal yourself along with anything under the car like the exhaust, sway removal, etc... Doing all that yourself will save you a couple (2-4) K in labor cost at least. Have a pro do the frame work, electrical and paint. I think your biggest gut check moment will be when you look under the car. Be honest with yourself if it looks bad under there. From the looks of it though, that estimate seems really high.
If you decide to total it though....there is a red G37S 6MT in my state pending if you feel like traveling. They're asking 14,900 and it has 78,000 miles
I was in college and took the opportunity to work on the car myself and, while not bad for a college kid who was turning a wrench for the first time, the car never drove the same. I didn't have frame damage but I'm sure there was other stuff in the engine bay that was FUBAR and I just missed it.
If I were you, I'd buy outright and fix as much myself as I could and let a pro handle what was way out of my league. Yella had a much worse looking car (no offense) and it came out pretty damn good for "half-***" .
You can do the trunk, bumper, headlight removal yourself along with anything under the car like the exhaust, sway removal, etc... Doing all that yourself will save you a couple (2-4) K in labor cost at least. Have a pro do the frame work, electrical and paint. I think your biggest gut check moment will be when you look under the car. Be honest with yourself if it looks bad under there. From the looks of it though, that estimate seems really high.
If you decide to total it though....there is a red G37S 6MT in my state pending if you feel like traveling. They're asking 14,900 and it has 78,000 miles
#36
I'm not a professional, but underneath the car looks okay, appraiser also didn't see any damage either. Car drove fine as well, just heard rubbing on my tire. All doors closes fine as well. My tail light ring works, but the signals don't. The wiring for the license plate it's fine as well. I checks, the wires aren't snagged was a clean disconnect lol. I have zero mechanical abilities, so all would be done through a shop. I definitely don't feel it's 15k tho
#37
It sounds like the adjuster is trying to dismiss it as totaled due to the airbags being deployed. Now if the adjuster came up with an estimate like 10k I would sit back and think that I've missed a couple things. But 15k is way out the ballpark
#38
Yea, especially considering you can have the OEM parts required (trunk lid, bumper, tail light) for under $2k, paint for $1-2k, I believe mine was $2k for both fenders, hood, and bumper on my car. Air bags for $3K? I think we are up to $7K now. Replace the axleback of the exhaust and I'd say we are about 85% of the way there.
Looking at it again, a good body shop should be able to save the trunk lid for you. I think you can do it to be honest. Or you can take the cash and get a "new" one. Told you there are some around me if you wanted to take the trip and you wouldn't need to hassle with the repairs.
All isn't lost though, you have options and can either stay with this car, move to another G of damn near identical value or another platform. Your choice.
Looking at it again, a good body shop should be able to save the trunk lid for you. I think you can do it to be honest. Or you can take the cash and get a "new" one. Told you there are some around me if you wanted to take the trip and you wouldn't need to hassle with the repairs.
All isn't lost though, you have options and can either stay with this car, move to another G of damn near identical value or another platform. Your choice.
#39
That is similar to what I was left with after I got rear ended.
They totaled mine, but I had about 140,000 miles on it.
I could have taken $16K and have them keep the car, or $12,400 and let ME keep the car.
I paid $10K a year earlier and parts to fix it were about $2K.
I am still driving it and it is essentially a free car at this point.
They totaled mine, but I had about 140,000 miles on it.
I could have taken $16K and have them keep the car, or $12,400 and let ME keep the car.
I paid $10K a year earlier and parts to fix it were about $2K.
I am still driving it and it is essentially a free car at this point.
#41
Being a rear end crash, the damages are far more in depth than a few fenders and lining everything up. The car will never be the same. Front end crashes can almost all be removed and replaced. Best of luck to you man, will you get another G?
#42
Yeah but the rear impact bar is untouched, heck even the rear body panel is untouched and the bar is right underneath it. That bar is there to stop most structural damage that's why I was confused by that estimate. Like my front crash bar was done for and I had a fair amount of structural damage but it was still repairable and not totaled
#43
Yeah but the rear impact bar is untouched, heck even the rear body panel is untouched and the bar is right underneath it. That bar is there to stop most structural damage that's why I was confused by that estimate. Like my front crash bar was done for and I had a fair amount of structural damage but it was still repairable and not totaled
#44
Man I dont know I feel the estimate was bull**** and instead of my company doing what the should do, they rathere total it out and keep my ****. Whoever end up with it getting a damn good deal. Idk wtf imma do, but I'm not feeling the idea if taking at least 8-9 g outta pocket to get my **** srraight. Might get a camaro unfortunately. I'll try to be patient for another g but I do need a vehicle.
#45
Said they were giving you 15k right? I found two G37S coupes near me that are standards with near identical mileage for the price. I know you're feeling defeated but replacements are there without you downgrading. Anyways, **** the 5th gen camaro dude. Thing drives like a boat and handles like a pig. If you want anything, its the new Coyote GT 2011+