Hey guys
Having an issue with my cars power after replacing the battery.

So basically, I replaced the battery after the last one was shot, but now after putting it in, the car has basically no power coming through the navi, locks, console, etc. All that is popping up is a steering wheel picture with arrows and a button on the little LCD screen (the steering wheel w/ arrows is something about unlocking the steering wheel). Also a sign on the dash that says KEY pops up randomly but there is no functional power coming throughout the car.

The battery is brand new and fully charged.

Now i've read this thread over and over https://www.myg37.com/forums/general...n-t-start.html

as it seems hes had the exact same issue but his culprit was the fusible link on the positive terminal.

I've checked what I think are 5 fuses that are on the positive cable and they all seem to be intact, atleast from what I can tell (sorry dont have much experience with fuses, power sources, etc.)

anybody experience an issue like this before? Not sure where to go from here.

Thanks

 

Use a meter to check voltage at the cables.

Loose or corroded battery cables?

Telcoman

 

If I have the dealer change my battery, will they do a ECU reset for me too?

 

On my previous 06 G35 I priced batteries and the dealer was about $20.00 higher. I had the dealer instal a 900 cca battery.
Everything worked when I left the dealer. Traded her in at 171796 miles for my 2012 G37S
When it comes time to replace my present battery I'll just let the dealer do it
I'm too old to put up with the bs the op is going thru just to save a few a few dollars.

Telcoman

 

I had one fuse pop after a new battery was installed, but my problem was nowhere as intense as yours.

Use a continuity tester to check across the leads/pins of the fuses to see if you have an open circuit.

Another option is to start replacing fuses one by one.

 

^that was my original plan but i really just dont have the patience for it.

Anyways im taking it in to a shop tomorrow morning hopefully to address this and a few other issues.I was convinced it was a fuse problem because like I said the battery is brand new, guy at the shop is claiming it may be an "immobilizer" or something related to the current tune.

I'll post up what the verdict is just for a future reference so anyone else having this issue can be at ease.

 

@OP, just wondering which group size batter is 900 CCA for our cars. I just bought a pretty good 24F size AGM battery with 710 CCA. Could have gove with the 34R shorter AGM with 750 CCA, or a 34R Sears Die Hard Platinum AGM with 800 CCA, but the Sears battery was $249.99. F that.

I used a Schumacher ECU memory retainer that plugs straight into the OBDI, and everything worked out fine. I could have bypassed using the memory tool, and the ECU would have still woked fine after the install, other than possibly the car losing some seat memory, nav, and radio settings. Even that often doesn't happen if you work quickly enough.

I'm just wondering if you shorted something out in that positive terminal fuse buss during your install. Not hard to do. Again, not ******* you. Just trying to figure out your problem, and also find out which Infiniti battery that fits in a G37 battert tray has 900CCA.

I paid $137 for the 710 CCA AGM at Advance Auto with a $50 coupon code. 3 year free replacement and then I'm on my own. This is not a difficult install, but not simple also, so I did it myself vs. even asking Advance Auto to install it.

Essentially, I went with the upgraded size battery that goes in the M37. Inifiniti was putting these in the 2008-2009 G37's as part of a TSB that included replacement of two other components. Again, not being ignorant, but I'll assume you understand the difference between CA and CCA.

 

Correction

It was a 700 CCA Battery

Telcoman