Wickedsnow

Ok guys, here's the skinny. I'm shooting for 350 WHP. I currently have 328WHP.

Here's what I have so far.

2x Injen cold air intakes (black)
Motordyne intake manifold
Stillen shorttube headers
ART test pipes (no cats)
Stillen catback exhaust
Front and rear sway bars
JW lightweight flywheel (13lbs. vs 29lbs stock)
JW stage 2 clutch
ECU tune by Z-Car garage.

I have been told I can do lightweight pulleys, water - air inner cooler, oil cooler. I have also heard that it's not really worth it.

I have looked into FI, and considering this is my daily driver at 40+ miles per day, no FI for me.

Any suggestions to get me to 350WHP?

blackvr4tt

iTrader: (2)

Our stock flywheel is 29lbs! Wow I didn't know it was that heavy.

blackvr4tt

iTrader: (2)

I would add lightweight pulleys, they will free up 5hp. Since you don't want to go the FI route, I would look into options for modding the heads. There must be gains with the cams. I haven't looked into it with the G, but it's a common upgrade for other platforms.

Wickedsnow

Black,

i heard pulley gains range from 1-5hp. 1-2 actual WHP. I was advised not to do it, but i'll dig deeper into it.

I'll look into the cam and head work. I'm hoping its not too much money. Thanks for the suggestions.

ashmostro

iTrader: (3)

With those existing mods on the car, it's going to be pretty tough to find another 20 odd horses while staying NA.

And I also do not recommend an underdrive pulley- I just don't like the idea of running accessories in essentially an overload condition, for such minor gains.

Curious, where's the 350 number coming from?

SwissCheeseHead

iTrader: (6)

They're talking about lightweight pulleys, which are different than underdrive pulleys.

ashmostro

iTrader: (3)

Ah, thanks for clarifying that. Agreed!

Still don't like the idea due to potential balance/vibration problems, and again, minimal gains for the risk.

Wyldfyer

Is this a number that came from a DYNO (calibrated and under the same conditions during all tests) or is this a number that you came up with by added all the claimed HP gains from each mod?

Buckeye G

iTrader: (4)

You could always do the z1 aluminum light weight drive shaft to free up some power..

Wickedsnow

Wyldfyer,

While I don't have a dyno to prove otherwise, on the computer at the z-car garage, my stock numbers was 285 using the STD rating. 328 after full bolt-ons and tune. Same dyno and shop.

TVPostSound

iTrader: (9)

Dump the Motordyne intake.
It loses HP in trade for torque.

But personally, I would take TQ over HP at that point.

Wickedsnow

I'll get a dyno e-mailed to me on monday and upload it.

Wickedsnow

TVPostSound,

I didn't know the motordyne lost HP vs the stock one. The reason I changed it at all was people complaining about the lack of air for the first 2 cylinders and replacing the spacer to fix it. Would just changing the entire manifold correct this problem?

Or am I an idiot and I still have this problem?

john91

iTrader: (1)

You have already done a lot of stuff to your car. I think the fact that you changed your flywheel and a clutch added some good amount of power it is just doesn't show. Isnt it depends on the driver? I mean you can changed to next gear faster? and having rpms drop faster... that's something increases your acceleration.

Also, I'm not a big fan of Stillen exhaust, as they say it is dual exhaust it is actually not true dual. It still has Y pipe, meaning it is not dual.
I actually got MXP true dual exhaust with resonated test pipes. In my opinion it is better choice than Stillen. I also have injen CAI.

It is awesome set up, I cant wait to go to the track to try it out

Wickedsnow

John91,

Yea i know it's a Y-pipe before I bought it. But I had bolt-on fever and the berk one i wanted was not available. At this point after spending $1600 on catback, it's not worth the change to a true dual. I would still have to sell my old part and my money tree is out of season! lol.

I have been told a water to air inner cooler could help, or an oil cooler. maybe bigger throttlebodys?

My big reason for staying away from FI is the huge cost, and needing to do cam/rod/piston work if I break 400WHP according to Rob. if I want a daily driver that will last me for 5-10 years, I can't or shouldn't do FI without engine work. At that point, I bought the wrong car and should have just gotten a GTR.

Rob told me that our motors can swing 400-425WHP without any engine work safely. After that, it's up in the air.

So lightweight pulleys are safe to use then? Minimal gains i'm sure but, I think at this point everything I do to get my 350WHP will all be minimal gains.

Now if I could find a supercharger used or cheap for 3000-4500k... I just might have to do it.....