S vs. non S?
#46
For me the only differences that matter are the suspension, LSD, and the brakes So I've got some questions for you guys.
I'm going to drop in a new set of brakes anyway but there's always a discounted resale value of the 37s brake kit (for you guys! )
-Suspension: Yeah It's getting swapped out, My question is about resale haha. I'm just wondering if anyone would be interested in an S suspension for Cheap?
I'm going to drop in a new set of brakes anyway but there's always a discounted resale value of the 37s brake kit (for you guys! )
-Suspension: Yeah It's getting swapped out, My question is about resale haha. I'm just wondering if anyone would be interested in an S suspension for Cheap?
The first few lines of your post state that your biggest concerns are with the suspension, brakes, and LSD. You then go on to say that you are going to be replacing two of the three main parts that make an 'S' an 'S.' What confuses me more is that you are suggesting that you are doing it for those of us who may be interested in buying your parts...
Don't buy a G37S because you think someone on the forum may want your stock parts. Buy it because you want that particular Infiniti model.
Am I the only one reading this thread that way?
All this debate over tracking the car and the performance qualities of different parts is, for the most part, unnecessary, in that the main issue here is that the OP, if he is going to replace all the 'S' parts, should just buy the base model G...
Why argue? No brainer.
#47
wow i dont check this for 6 hours and a bomb went off about brakes. i know that the magazines have the same complaints
1. engine oil temp sends it to limp mode
2. brake fade on their track
i have the sport brakes and this is how i upgraded, best bang for my buck i think
1. stainless steel brake lines
2. higher brake fluid temp 500 plus i think or 5DOT idk
3. STILLEN Jhook rotors, i will try to do hawk pads when i replace
1. engine oil temp sends it to limp mode
2. brake fade on their track
i have the sport brakes and this is how i upgraded, best bang for my buck i think
1. stainless steel brake lines
2. higher brake fluid temp 500 plus i think or 5DOT idk
3. STILLEN Jhook rotors, i will try to do hawk pads when i replace
The last thing I want is to bury the nose of my 26K car into the car in front of me and total my car or, worse, hurt someone or myself.
I'm still looking for Insight as to why the VQ runs so hot. I feel like there's got to be a more economocal way to keep temps down other than throwing on radiators/intercoolers/etc. Especially from an aluminum block engine.
#48
So brake fade is a definite issue it seems. Did you upgrade your calipers? Adjust Bias? anything other than upgrade your lines/rotors?
The last thing I want is to bury the nose of my 26K car into the car in front of me and total my car or, worse, hurt someone or myself.
I'm still looking for Insight as to why the VQ runs so hot. I feel like there's got to be a more economocal way to keep temps down other than throwing on radiators/intercoolers/etc. Especially from an aluminum block engine.
The last thing I want is to bury the nose of my 26K car into the car in front of me and total my car or, worse, hurt someone or myself.
I'm still looking for Insight as to why the VQ runs so hot. I feel like there's got to be a more economocal way to keep temps down other than throwing on radiators/intercoolers/etc. Especially from an aluminum block engine.
I added a stillen 25 row oil cooler. It cost me 485 and you can to save money order the thermastic plate from stillen or z1 then shop around and find generic oil coolers for 50 and then have your local shop make the braided line and run the fitting also. Im guessing if you do the leg work you will only spend 250ish on parts, idk what they charge for the plate though. and then labor.
Also guy to autozone and get water wetter for $10 and add that to your coolant. or royal purple its all the same that should help. it sucks cuz our cars dont have a number temp gauge like the Z so we dont know what the temp is
#49
So brake fade is a definite issue it seems. Did you upgrade your calipers? Adjust Bias? anything other than upgrade your lines/rotors?
The last thing I want is to bury the nose of my 26K car into the car in front of me and total my car or, worse, hurt someone or myself.
I'm still looking for Insight as to why the VQ runs so hot. I feel like there's got to be a more economocal way to keep temps down other than throwing on radiators/intercoolers/etc. Especially from an aluminum block engine.
The last thing I want is to bury the nose of my 26K car into the car in front of me and total my car or, worse, hurt someone or myself.
I'm still looking for Insight as to why the VQ runs so hot. I feel like there's got to be a more economocal way to keep temps down other than throwing on radiators/intercoolers/etc. Especially from an aluminum block engine.
I've stated it before and I've stated it again. VVEL operates using a stepper motor, which is ultimately cooled by engine oil. High RPM = more work for the motor = more heat. Simply put, VVEL puts an insane amount of heat into the engine oil, and you need to get rid of that heat. As with any FI car, you should be using a larger aftermarket radiator, and a sealed engine bay inlet. The type of alloy used in the construction is irrelevant to the heat output of the engine.
This is what I do to rotors and pads. I think I know what I'm talking about since my brake rotor and pad expenditure for the 2011 season is probably more than what most G owners make in payments for the entire year.
Pictured pads are rated for 0-1100C(0-2000F).
#50
This thread confuses me, as well.
The first few lines of your post state that your biggest concerns are with the suspension, brakes, and LSD. You then go on to say that you are going to be replacing two of the three main parts that make an 'S' an 'S.' What confuses me more is that you are suggesting that you are doing it for those of us who may be interested in buying your parts...
Don't buy a G37S because you think someone on the forum may want your stock parts. Buy it because you want that particular Infiniti model.
Am I the only one reading this thread that way?
All this debate over tracking the car and the performance qualities of different parts is, for the most part, unnecessary, in that the main issue here is that the OP, if he is going to replace all the 'S' parts, should just buy the base model G...
Why argue? No brainer.
The first few lines of your post state that your biggest concerns are with the suspension, brakes, and LSD. You then go on to say that you are going to be replacing two of the three main parts that make an 'S' an 'S.' What confuses me more is that you are suggesting that you are doing it for those of us who may be interested in buying your parts...
Don't buy a G37S because you think someone on the forum may want your stock parts. Buy it because you want that particular Infiniti model.
Am I the only one reading this thread that way?
All this debate over tracking the car and the performance qualities of different parts is, for the most part, unnecessary, in that the main issue here is that the OP, if he is going to replace all the 'S' parts, should just buy the base model G...
Why argue? No brainer.
You're not the only one, he has gone from one end (mostly tracking) back to the other (weekend warrior) and now back to the start. I am not so sure he really knows what he is going to use the car for.
#51
This thread confuses me, as well.
The first few lines of your post state that your biggest concerns are with the suspension, brakes, and LSD. You then go on to say that you are going to be replacing two of the three main parts that make an 'S' an 'S.' What confuses me more is that you are suggesting that you are doing it for those of us who may be interested in buying your parts...
Don't buy a G37S because you think someone on the forum may want your stock parts. Buy it because you want that particular Infiniti model.
Am I the only one reading this thread that way?
All this debate over tracking the car and the performance qualities of different parts is, for the most part, unnecessary, in that the main issue here is that the OP, if he is going to replace all the 'S' parts, should just buy the base model G...
Why argue? No brainer.
The first few lines of your post state that your biggest concerns are with the suspension, brakes, and LSD. You then go on to say that you are going to be replacing two of the three main parts that make an 'S' an 'S.' What confuses me more is that you are suggesting that you are doing it for those of us who may be interested in buying your parts...
Don't buy a G37S because you think someone on the forum may want your stock parts. Buy it because you want that particular Infiniti model.
Am I the only one reading this thread that way?
All this debate over tracking the car and the performance qualities of different parts is, for the most part, unnecessary, in that the main issue here is that the OP, if he is going to replace all the 'S' parts, should just buy the base model G...
Why argue? No brainer.
The nice thing about the S is it brings a lot of performance parts that are expensive on their own into one package at a comparitive bargain. Especially if the car is used.
The only issue is that a lot of what is advertised as "performance" oriented equipment isn't up to snuff when the rubber hits the road. You can check the branding and maneufacturers all day long but they're just going to back their own product ruthlessly regardless fo the validity of their claims.
So the only way to really find out is to ask the users. Those who bought the S and take it to the track. If they've had to replace parts or make modifications that negate the presumed benefits that come from purchasing the S trim. If this is the case then there's no reason to spend the money on the S.
As for the resale thing. It's a given SOME parts are going to HAVE to be replaced to make the car track ready, even for HPDE events. These parts can range from wheels, brake pads and lines, all the way up to a full suspension kit. If most of the S-model is usable on the track (as apparently the callipers are) but Another part might not be whats needed for a track day say for example the suspension. I can still sell that to someone who say, wants to upgrade their standard G37 (if that's viable) or someone with an S who needs a replacement part but doesn't want to pay too much.
Since most of my parts are daily driveable and trackable I can get rid of the stock parts for super cheap...my way of trying to help out other 37 drivers if I can.
#52
To specify. HPD Events, and autocross. Probably more the former than the latter. This isn't a race car but she will spend significant time on the track. But in between zooming around corners, I'll be driving to work in it, picking up groceries, etc.
#54
I would suggest that you prep the car for either the track or for autox, as the setups are mutually exclusive.
The best thing I can tell you is to drive the car at both the track and at autoxs a few times before you go buck wild.
The best thing I can tell you is to drive the car at both the track and at autoxs a few times before you go buck wild.
#55
All you need are good pads, fluid, and optionally (but highly recommended) brake ducts with the OEM Akebono calipers. Brake fade in the form of pads overheating is an issue on ANY production car. Most cars are fine with just better pads and fluid. It's rare to NEED a full on caliper upgrade.
I've stated it before and I've stated it again. VVEL operates using a stepper motor, which is ultimately cooled by engine oil. High RPM = more work for the motor = more heat. Simply put, VVEL puts an insane amount of heat into the engine oil, and you need to get rid of that heat. As with any FI car, you should be using a larger aftermarket radiator, and a sealed engine bay inlet. The type of alloy used in the construction is irrelevant to the heat output of the engine.
This is what I do to rotors and pads. I think I know what I'm talking about since my brake rotor and pad expenditure for the 2011 season is probably more than what most G owners make in payments for the entire year.
Pictured pads are rated for 0-1100C(0-2000F).
I've stated it before and I've stated it again. VVEL operates using a stepper motor, which is ultimately cooled by engine oil. High RPM = more work for the motor = more heat. Simply put, VVEL puts an insane amount of heat into the engine oil, and you need to get rid of that heat. As with any FI car, you should be using a larger aftermarket radiator, and a sealed engine bay inlet. The type of alloy used in the construction is irrelevant to the heat output of the engine.
This is what I do to rotors and pads. I think I know what I'm talking about since my brake rotor and pad expenditure for the 2011 season is probably more than what most G owners make in payments for the entire year.
Pictured pads are rated for 0-1100C(0-2000F).
I just spoke of the aluminum block because while material doesn't directly affect thermal efficiency it DOEs usually affect engine design and a lot of aluminum built engines tend to be disigned with very good cooling. Take the 2gr-FSE from toyota. Side by side against a corvette z06 on an oval track in ( I want to say Arizona but might have been Nevada...been a while since I read the article but somewhere hot) the Lexus outran the corvette through 200 laps just based on downtime. The 'vette would overheat after a few laps and need to sit or have fluids exchanged. Meanwhile the lexus was lasting longer than its drivers on the track.
#56
I plan on putting her round the ring a bit before I change anything. But I will at some point mod. So I wanted to get your guys take on the parts that infiniti is putting forward as "performance" to see if it's just a label or if I can count on them on the track because If its the latter Then it wouldn't make sense not to grab the S from an economic standpoint.
#57
It'll be track certainly. I just threw in autox because I'm sure I'd be tempted at some point to put her through the cones.
I plan on putting her round the ring a bit before I change anything. But I will at some point mod. So I wanted to get your guys take on the parts that infiniti is putting forward as "performance" to see if it's just a label or if I can count on them on the track because If its the latter Then it wouldn't make sense not to grab the S from an economic standpoint.
I plan on putting her round the ring a bit before I change anything. But I will at some point mod. So I wanted to get your guys take on the parts that infiniti is putting forward as "performance" to see if it's just a label or if I can count on them on the track because If its the latter Then it wouldn't make sense not to grab the S from an economic standpoint.
- good brake pads
- good brake fluid
- Oil cooler (biggest one you can afford... remember to leave yourself room for expansion since you plan on going FI. I like the 72 row from AE performance.) ///AE Performance Oil Cooler End of Summer Blowout!!! - Nissan 370Z Forum
Everything else, I would mod to address things you don't like about the car.
#58
^^^ ....and spare tires, and a tire guage, and a jack, and a toolkit, and cash lol. Hey Mike do you track your G at all or no? I know you've got some serious investmenets in racing spawing from the other thread specifically about FI, But it also sounds like you're racing for keeps. Are you a sponsored racer or do are you just an addict?
#59
I personally never tracked my G, but I've driven student Gs around track more than a few times. I moonlight as an instructor and do testing for manufacturers, but ultimately it's just an expensive hobby.
I have surprisingly little done to my current car. Good oil, good brake pads, fart cannon, rims, and (street) tires. The car is still faster than me, and I won't do anything performance oriented until I feel that the car is holding me back.
Tools can be borrowed at the track
I have surprisingly little done to my current car. Good oil, good brake pads, fart cannon, rims, and (street) tires. The car is still faster than me, and I won't do anything performance oriented until I feel that the car is holding me back.
Tools can be borrowed at the track
#60
I personally never tracked my G, but I've driven student Gs around track more than a few times. I moonlight as an instructor and do testing for manufacturers, but ultimately it's just an expensive hobby.
I have surprisingly little done to my current car. Good oil, good brake pads, fart cannon, rims, and (street) tires. The car is still faster than me, and I won't do anything performance oriented until I feel that the car is holding me back.
Tools can be borrowed at the track
I have surprisingly little done to my current car. Good oil, good brake pads, fart cannon, rims, and (street) tires. The car is still faster than me, and I won't do anything performance oriented until I feel that the car is holding me back.
Tools can be borrowed at the track
Substitute Tools for a 5 gallon gas tank then Gnuck Gnuck. Mind if I ask what it is you drive? And a general where abouts? Just wondering if we've ever been on the same bit of asphalt. Ever whizz by a blaze orange civic with a big number five and a sh&*ton of stickers all ocer it?