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Walkaround/Drag/Dyno and Full Stillen Exhaust Sample

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Old 12-05-2011, 03:48 PM
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37hevn
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Walkaround/Drag/Dyno and Full Stillen Exhaust Sample

Here is an overview of my car. I bought it not quite a year ago, its came a long way. Let me know what you think. Headers was the last install I did and total it cost me $530 parts $600 install $200 front o2 sensor= 8 hp gain=not worth the money. Plan on buying o2 sensors, I found an off brand at drivewire.com and got good deal and it works fine, OEM are $340-360.

Next year I plan on getting Stillen Sway bar front and rear then spring of 13 a supercharger if I decide to keep it.



2008 Infiniti G37S Full Bolt on Overview: Full Stillen Exhaust, Dyno, Drag, Walkaround - YouTube
Old 12-05-2011, 04:55 PM
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huwee06
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Did a gj on the build but I too can't see spending over 1k for +8hp but it seems to be very effective so how much rwhp/rwtq are you putting down?
Old 12-05-2011, 05:10 PM
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Soliditude
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Dude, are you serious? You're only putting down 283/238 with being fully-bolted? There must be something wrong with the dyno or you put up the wrong numbers. A bone STOCK G or Z put down 10/10 less than that. With just an exhuast and tune, I'm putting down 286/246, being about 11 horsepower over stock. What's wrong? Please clarify, because you should be pushing over 300 horses to the wheels when fully-bolted.

Other than that, sick video! I love how it sounds when you step on it.
Old 12-05-2011, 06:40 PM
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37hevn
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Originally Posted by Soliditude
Dude, are you serious? You're only putting down 283/238 with being fully-bolted? There must be something wrong with the dyno or you put up the wrong numbers. A bone STOCK G or Z put down 10/10 less than that. With just an exhuast and tune, I'm putting down 286/246, being about 11 horsepower over stock. What's wrong? Please clarify, because you should be pushing over 300 horses to the wheels when fully-bolted.

Other than that, sick video! I love how it sounds when you step on it.
The dyno I use is lower than most out there and I also have an automatic which takes a little away from other g37s that are a manual. There are several different 350z's that have used the one I do and the most they ave put down was 242. Another dyno where I live has a 350z putting down 269. A similar 350 put down 238 on the one I used. Thats almost a 30 hp difference on a fairly small scale. Let me know what 350z's do on the one you use and then we can compare. But I even asked Uprev and they ballparked my car 275-285. The most torque Ive put down before was 243 but the run I hit 283 didnt have that.

Let me know what year and mods you find out on the 350z's have, and what numbers they put down.
Old 12-05-2011, 06:50 PM
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37hevn
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Originally Posted by huwee06
Did a gj on the build but I too can't see spending over 1k for +8hp but it seems to be very effective so how much rwhp/rwtq are you putting down?
Yea a sc is the better route when your talking $ per hp. Since I already had hfc and catback I understand it wasnt going to hit the 14.5 like they said. My best hp was 283 and best tq was 243 but on a different run. I also didnt know that g37's have headers already on them stock, otherwise I wouldnt have changed it.
Old 12-05-2011, 11:45 PM
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huwee06
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I spoke to my uprev tuner (jtran), he said as well as many others have had, G37 stock headers are fairly well built as is so yes you won't gain much with aftermarket headers well as for the price goes anyway.

I would think you would at least break 300rwhp with the full bolt-ons too but it's true every dyno do read differently. Your rwtq is good though wished I had that much tq haha
Old 12-06-2011, 01:19 AM
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37hevn
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Heres a pic i took of the stock one. The tubes arent equal length and the stillen headers are. The stock headers would be a short shorty and the stillens a mid-long shorty. The stillen also has a little bigger tubes. Not much.

Last edited by 37hevn; 02-26-2012 at 06:37 PM.
Old 12-06-2011, 01:30 AM
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Soliditude
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Originally Posted by 37hevn
The dyno I use is lower than most out there and I also have an automatic which takes a little away from other g37s that are a manual. There are several different 350z's that have used the one I do and the most they ave put down was 242. Another dyno where I live has a 350z putting down 269. A similar 350 put down 238 on the one I used. Thats almost a 30 hp difference on a fairly small scale. Let me know what 350z's do on the one you use and then we can compare. But I even asked Uprev and they ballparked my car 275-285. The most torque Ive put down before was 243 but the run I hit 283 didnt have that.

Let me know what year and mods you find out on the 350z's have, and what numbers they put down.
I'm guessing that your dyno is reading really, really low. Realistically, you should be around 300 WHP. Look at this thread with member dyno sheets:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...no-sheets.html

Stock G's put down around 275 on average. Look at modded dynos, too. People get to the 300 range quite easily without fully-bolted cars. I'm sure you're just on a bad dyno.
Old 12-06-2011, 06:29 AM
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ANMVQ
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Man 283??? because your an auto??? Man I'm also an auto and AWD and made 298 WHP and 230 WTQ on a heartbreaker dyno( Mustang). No HFC's or headers, Stock manifolds and cats?? I know each car and dyno are different plus areas are different, But I have seen countless cars making atleast 300 WHP??? I agree with soliditude 100%. My car stock was 268 WHP
Old 12-06-2011, 12:02 PM
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huwee06
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Originally Posted by 37hevn
Heres a pic i took of the stock one. The tubes arent equal length and the stillen headers are. The stock headers would be a short shorty and the stillens a mid-long shorty. The stillen also has a little bigger tubes. Not much.
plus you save in weight with stillen FTW!


Damn it! 298/230 on MD with an Auto with no HFC/TP! I only got 296/235 with my 6MT with everything besides headers on a MD lol but did my tune during TX hot hot summer so I lost some power due to heat soak ftl
Old 12-06-2011, 12:12 PM
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ANMVQ
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Yea heat soak FTL .. All the HFC-TP cars I have seen make a hair more WHP than but 20 more WTQ!!! My tuning day was 61 degress and perfect out.
Old 12-06-2011, 05:25 PM
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37hevn
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if the dyno is calibrated right and works, it takes out temperature and humidity as a variable. The dyno i used held a hair dryer in front of the sensor on one run and one without and didnt make a difference. but who knows, i plan on moving to texas after i graduate and ill make a trip to uprev and see what i can do on theirs.
Old 12-07-2011, 10:11 AM
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TSG37
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Hi sorry im what some would consider a noob. Why do you have your intake pipes covered or wrapped? What did you use and does it give you any benefit?
Old 12-07-2011, 03:33 PM
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Soliditude
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Originally Posted by TSG37
Hi sorry im what some would consider a noob. Why do you have your intake pipes covered or wrapped? What did you use and does it give you any benefit?

This helps it by keeping it cooler in the engine bay. Your intake tubes heat up from all the heat under the hood and that impacts them in a negative way, so that wrap makes less heat come to the tube, basically.
Old 12-07-2011, 04:51 PM
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TSG37
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Originally Posted by Soliditude
This helps it by keeping it cooler in the engine bay. Your intake tubes heat up from all the heat under the hood and that impacts them in a negative way, so that wrap makes less heat come to the tube, basically.
Is there a specific type used or any works well? So would you only wrap the part by the engine bay or the entire pipe?


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