What Is Your Break-In Method?
#1
What Is Your Break-In Method?
From: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
i did this on every single sportbike & car i have owned.
1. SIGN THE PAPERWORK & SHAKE THE DEALERS HAND.
2. WARM THE CAR UP.
3. GENTLY PULL OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP
4. REACH THE FIRST TRAFFIC LIGHT OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP'S SIGHT
5. (green light)RIP THE **** OUT OF HER TILL I GET HOME!
The biggest factor is that engine manufacturers now use a much finer honing pattern in the cylinders than they once did. This in turn changes the break-in requirements. The window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with newer engines than it was with the older "rough honed" engines.
These same break in techniques apply to both steel cylinders and Nikasil, as well as the ceramic composite cylinders that Yamaha uses in it's motorcycles.
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.
If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ... How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of PSI of combustion pressure ?? Of course it can't. How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ?? From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle!!!) then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.
Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
Personally i want those piston rings to get their seat in correctly, i want those valves to seat in right, and i want the piston to start honing its home at top deadcenter at a higher RPM from day one- so when in a few thousand miles i decide to gun it later, it wont chip off the unused parts of the upper most portion of the cylinder sleeve.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
i did this on every single sportbike & car i have owned.
1. SIGN THE PAPERWORK & SHAKE THE DEALERS HAND.
2. WARM THE CAR UP.
3. GENTLY PULL OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP
4. REACH THE FIRST TRAFFIC LIGHT OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP'S SIGHT
5. (green light)RIP THE **** OUT OF HER TILL I GET HOME!
The biggest factor is that engine manufacturers now use a much finer honing pattern in the cylinders than they once did. This in turn changes the break-in requirements. The window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with newer engines than it was with the older "rough honed" engines.
These same break in techniques apply to both steel cylinders and Nikasil, as well as the ceramic composite cylinders that Yamaha uses in it's motorcycles.
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.
If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ... How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of PSI of combustion pressure ?? Of course it can't. How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ?? From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle!!!) then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.
Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
Personally i want those piston rings to get their seat in correctly, i want those valves to seat in right, and i want the piston to start honing its home at top deadcenter at a higher RPM from day one- so when in a few thousand miles i decide to gun it later, it wont chip off the unused parts of the upper most portion of the cylinder sleeve.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Last edited by ImStricken; 03-29-2011 at 09:51 AM.
#2
Please quote your source next time:
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
#3
Please quote your source next time:
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
#5
listen your supposed to run it hard. but hard under extreme supervision. (a mechanics trained eyes & ears & nose.)
a mechanic can tell by a tiny sound- something is off. or he can tell by a smell, which fluid is burning, or if that smell is the normal rtv silicone burning off.
give a new car to the average moron & tell him to "run it hard", and he's gonna have it towed back in 30mins.
or the average stick shift driver who doesnt understand the difference between SMOOTH, FAST, RPM MATCHING, SHIFTING and HARD, GEAR GRINDING, GRANNY-SHIFTING.
Last edited by ImStricken; 03-29-2011 at 10:15 AM.
#6
^ that's true, but the other thing to note is that most of our cars have somewhere around the range of 50miles put on the car when it is delivered to us. so wouldn't that mean the first "20miles" which is the main time to bore the engine have past already?
also what happens after you drive the car hard for the first time? are you suppose to keep driving it hard all the time or just normally?
also what happens after you drive the car hard for the first time? are you suppose to keep driving it hard all the time or just normally?
#7
^ that's true, but the other thing to note is that most of our cars have somewhere around the range of 50miles put on the car when it is delivered to us. so wouldn't that mean the first "20miles" which is the main time to bore the engine have past already?
also what happens after you drive the car hard for the first time? are you suppose to keep driving it hard all the time or just normally?
also what happens after you drive the car hard for the first time? are you suppose to keep driving it hard all the time or just normally?
here is the thing. if you drive it gently, you dont allow for the parts to expand within their seat. secondly you dont allow things to undergo proper extension under pressure. meaning, if the piston never travels past it normal low rpm 'top-dead-center' state, and the piston rod, and pin never experience the proper extension under pressure, and the piston starts its honing process, there is going to be a microscopic area of untraveled territory on the cylinder wall that will be narrower then the rest of the normally traveled cylinder wall.
if in 6000 miles you decide to really rev it up, the piston will experience some slight pressure and extend into the previously untraveled area of the cylinder and will break off, bend, or chip off the previously untraveled area, possibly causing serious engine damage.
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#9
that red area, is the area you want to allow your piston to travel into from day one. otherwise if you dont travel that area today, and do it in 5000 miles, damage could occur.
Last edited by ImStricken; 03-29-2011 at 10:58 AM.
#11
if its 15miles one way, then yes 30miles isnt bad.
but in jersey we have a gas station on every corner.
#12
i did this on every single sportbike & car i have owned.
1. SIGN THE PAPERWORK & SHAKE THE DEALERS HAND.
2. WARM THE CAR UP.
3. GENTLY PULL OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP
4. REACH THE FIRST TRAFFIC LIGHT OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP'S SIGHT
5. (green light)RIP THE **** OUT OF HER TILL I GET HOME!
1. SIGN THE PAPERWORK & SHAKE THE DEALERS HAND.
2. WARM THE CAR UP.
3. GENTLY PULL OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP
4. REACH THE FIRST TRAFFIC LIGHT OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP'S SIGHT
5. (green light)RIP THE **** OUT OF HER TILL I GET HOME!
#13
If the manufacturer don't want the legal responsibility, all they have to do is NOT to mention "break in period" at all. Why do they still choose to mention about break in period telling you to take it easy for the first 1200 miles???
#14
they gotta mention something or there reason enough to not know.