What Is Your Break-In Method?
03-29-2011, 12:57 PM
#34
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Well the OP said on the first page
Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
03-29-2011, 12:57 PM
#35
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That filter is small and clogs fast, and a tiny drop in oil pressure can cause SERIOUS engine damage on a new engine still going through its head cycles and break-in periods.
on a side note:
i have owned high performance engines from multiple sportbikes to cars, and each car has served me 150,000 with ZERO engine issues & bikes have served and currently serve stock wet-clutch kits with 14000+miles.
(currently my maxima has 144,000 trouble free miles. just oil & filter changes) EACH HAS UNDERGONE THIS SAME BREAK-IN & MAINTENANCE.
so something im doing right engine wise. no?
03-29-2011, 01:00 PM
#36
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listen if you own the car, and want to continue owning it past 75,000miles, i would change the oil between the first 25-75miles from regular into synthetic. And then again in 3,500miles just to insure my engines future.
That filter is small and clogs fast, and a tiny drop in oil pressure can cause SERIOUS engine damage on a new engine still going through its head cycles and break-in periods.
on a side note:
i have owned high performance engines from multiple sportbikes to cars, and each car has served me 150,000 with ZERO engine issues & bikes have served and currently serve stock wet-clutch kits with 14000+miles.
(currently my maxima has 144,000 trouble free miles. just oil & filter changes) EACH HAS UNDERGONE THIS SAME BREAK-IN & MAINTENANCE.
so something im doing right engine wise. no?
That filter is small and clogs fast, and a tiny drop in oil pressure can cause SERIOUS engine damage on a new engine still going through its head cycles and break-in periods.
on a side note:
i have owned high performance engines from multiple sportbikes to cars, and each car has served me 150,000 with ZERO engine issues & bikes have served and currently serve stock wet-clutch kits with 14000+miles.
(currently my maxima has 144,000 trouble free miles. just oil & filter changes) EACH HAS UNDERGONE THIS SAME BREAK-IN & MAINTENANCE.
so something im doing right engine wise. no?
03-29-2011, 01:06 PM
#37
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im very very meticulous with my engines & transmissions.
oil will become very dirty before 100 miles.
cylinder walls & piston rings could or will take more time to fully adjust and sit. but most filth will contaminate the oil before 100 miles.
so you want to let the engine break in the first 100miles in regular oil.
get that dirt out, and put in fresh synthetic. allow the pistons and rings to continue setting in for an additional 3500 under the lower oil resistance that synthetic has to offer, and change the oil again. thats personally my time table.
03-29-2011, 01:11 PM
#38
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you dont want your oil filter running (looking) like this for a long time on a new engine:
http://img238.imageshack.us/f/filter4qm.jpg/
http://img238.imageshack.us/f/filter4qm.jpg/
03-29-2011, 01:12 PM
#39
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total engine break in time, and new engine oil life-time is 2 different things.
im very very meticulous with my engines & transmissions.
oil will become very dirty before 100 miles.
cylinder walls & piston rings could or will take more time to fully adjust and sit. but most filth will contaminate the oil before 100 miles.
so you want to let the engine break in the first 100miles in regular oil.
get that dirt out, and put in fresh synthetic. allow the pistons and rings to continue setting in for an additional 3500 under the lower oil resistance that synthetic has to offer, and change the oil again. thats personally my time table.
im very very meticulous with my engines & transmissions.
oil will become very dirty before 100 miles.
cylinder walls & piston rings could or will take more time to fully adjust and sit. but most filth will contaminate the oil before 100 miles.
so you want to let the engine break in the first 100miles in regular oil.
get that dirt out, and put in fresh synthetic. allow the pistons and rings to continue setting in for an additional 3500 under the lower oil resistance that synthetic has to offer, and change the oil again. thats personally my time table.
Ok, cool thanks for clearing that up....I will drive it this week until the weekend I should have about 100 miles on it by then will get oil changed and put in full synthethic..
What brand do you use for full synthetic?
thanks!
Last edited by Brooklynstar23; 03-29-2011 at 01:24 PM.
03-29-2011, 01:13 PM
#40
Eh, my parents have kept all their cars to 150,000+ and never did anything fancy for maintenance. They just used regular oil and changed it every 3K or so. They never had any problems with their cars.
If you're racing or have forced induction or something like that, then yeah use synthetic. If it's just an everyday car then I've never had any problems with regular oil.
If you're racing or have forced induction or something like that, then yeah use synthetic. If it's just an everyday car then I've never had any problems with regular oil.
03-29-2011, 01:18 PM
#41
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Eh, my parents have kept all their cars to 150,000+ and never did anything fancy for maintenance. They just used regular oil and changed it every 3K or so. They never had any problems with their cars.
If you're racing or have forced induction or something like that, then yeah use synthetic. If it's just an everyday car then I've never had any problems with regular oil.
If you're racing or have forced induction or something like that, then yeah use synthetic. If it's just an everyday car then I've never had any problems with regular oil.
synthetic oils are thinner, offer more protection, while staying thinner under extreme conditions.
some engines like a basic 4cylinder camry engine can run forever on regular oil.
and some engines really will last longer and perform better in synthetic oil.
on my race bike, i want as less resistance on my pistons/walls as possible. regular oil just doesnt cut it. the 10w-40 i use from amsoil offers me low resistance, with superior engine protection.
03-29-2011, 01:23 PM
#42
total engine break in time, and new engine oil life-time is 2 different things.
im very very meticulous with my engines & transmissions.
oil will become very dirty before 100 miles.
cylinder walls & piston rings could or will take more time to fully adjust and sit. but most filth will contaminate the oil before 100 miles.
so you want to let the engine break in the first 100miles in regular oil.
get that dirt out, and put in fresh synthetic. allow the pistons and rings to continue setting in for an additional 3500 under the lower oil resistance that synthetic has to offer, and change the oil again. thats personally my time table.
im very very meticulous with my engines & transmissions.
oil will become very dirty before 100 miles.
cylinder walls & piston rings could or will take more time to fully adjust and sit. but most filth will contaminate the oil before 100 miles.
so you want to let the engine break in the first 100miles in regular oil.
get that dirt out, and put in fresh synthetic. allow the pistons and rings to continue setting in for an additional 3500 under the lower oil resistance that synthetic has to offer, and change the oil again. thats personally my time table.
2. larger particles will be trapped by the oil filter. This is the purpose of the oil filter
3. the largest particles will fall to the bottom of the oil pan, if it somehow gets past the oil filter.
i dont know which types of cars your parents had, but with our infiniti 'variable valve event and lift'; those parts are so tightly installed and work under such tight conditions, that regular oil- being so think, offers even more resistance and gap between the parts.
synthetic oils are thinner, offer more protection, while staying thinner under extreme conditions.
some engines like a basic 4cylinder camry engine can run forever on regular oil.
and some engines really will last longer and perform better in synthetic oil.
on my race bike, i want as less resistance on my pistons/walls as possible. regular oil just doesnt cut it. the 10w-40 i use from amsoil offers me low resistance, with superior engine protection.
synthetic oils are thinner, offer more protection, while staying thinner under extreme conditions.
some engines like a basic 4cylinder camry engine can run forever on regular oil.
and some engines really will last longer and perform better in synthetic oil.
on my race bike, i want as less resistance on my pistons/walls as possible. regular oil just doesnt cut it. the 10w-40 i use from amsoil offers me low resistance, with superior engine protection.
here is the thing. if the parts are to tight to begin with, driving slowly or fast- its still going to cause damage. so that throws that out of the box.
parts need to fit right, and perfectly- or its going to seize.
and the piston rings operate on pressure: more pressure = better seal.
higher engine speeds = higher pressure = better seal.
and the seal is what your looking for in breaking an engine in.
parts need to fit right, and perfectly- or its going to seize.
and the piston rings operate on pressure: more pressure = better seal.
higher engine speeds = higher pressure = better seal.
and the seal is what your looking for in breaking an engine in.
Do you have any idea how piston rings work? Can you tell me how many piston rings a VQ uses? Are they staggered or stacked? Which side of the each piston ring(s) sees what pressure? What are the advantages and disadvantages of different piston ring setups?
Higher engine speeds = more RPM. Compression NEVER changes. Simply is not a variable. Pressure, therefore, never changes.
Stop reading random crap on the internet, go take some physics and engineering classes, or learn on your own through experience, and then come back and we can have a discussion about different break-in strategies.
03-29-2011, 01:24 PM
#43
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there is a reason why nissan insists on light weight Ester 5W3 Oil being used in our cars.
the 'Variable Valve Event & Lift' is a complex system that needs precise & exact clearance and gap to be dead on. ester 5W3 & synthetic oils provide less rolling resistance while maintaining the proper lubrication & coverage on the parts.
being a lighter weight oil, it also cools down faster, and is able to maintain its composure under extreme heat/stress conditions.
the 'Variable Valve Event & Lift' is a complex system that needs precise & exact clearance and gap to be dead on. ester 5W3 & synthetic oils provide less rolling resistance while maintaining the proper lubrication & coverage on the parts.
being a lighter weight oil, it also cools down faster, and is able to maintain its composure under extreme heat/stress conditions.
03-29-2011, 01:27 PM
#44
i dont know which types of cars your parents had, but with our infiniti 'variable valve event and lift'; those parts are so tightly installed and work under such tight conditions, that regular oil- being so think, offers even more resistance and gap between the parts.
synthetic oils are thinner, offer more protection, while staying thinner under extreme conditions.
some engines like a basic 4cylinder camry engine can run forever on regular oil.
and some engines really will last longer and perform better in synthetic oil.
on my race bike, i want as less resistance on my pistons/walls as possible. regular oil just doesnt cut it. the 10w-40 i use from amsoil offers me low resistance, with superior engine protection.
synthetic oils are thinner, offer more protection, while staying thinner under extreme conditions.
some engines like a basic 4cylinder camry engine can run forever on regular oil.
and some engines really will last longer and perform better in synthetic oil.
on my race bike, i want as less resistance on my pistons/walls as possible. regular oil just doesnt cut it. the 10w-40 i use from amsoil offers me low resistance, with superior engine protection.
As long as the oil meets Infiniti's guidelines it's fine. They designed the engine so I'm sure they know what's OK to use in it.
If I was racing the car or putting in turbos/superchargers yeah I'd use synthetic. For a stock engine that never sees anything more exciting than the highway, whatever the dealer puts in is fine.
03-29-2011, 01:30 PM
#45
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1. Tiny particles will be trapped in the oil itself. That is one of the main purposes of having engine oil
2. larger particles will be trapped by the oil filter. This is the purpose of the oil filter
3. the largest particles will fall to the bottom of the oil pan, if it somehow gets past the oil filter.
VVEL performs the same functions as normal intake cams, and works with the same tolerances when it comes to valve lash. Sorry, but the reasoning behind your logic is flawed.
2. larger particles will be trapped by the oil filter. This is the purpose of the oil filter
3. the largest particles will fall to the bottom of the oil pan, if it somehow gets past the oil filter.
VVEL performs the same functions as normal intake cams, and works with the same tolerances when it comes to valve lash. Sorry, but the reasoning behind your logic is flawed.
1. NO/YESengine oil is to lubricate, not to trap. the oil filter is to trap. but yes the oil will hold onto particles, but its not supposed to.
2. larger particles trapped in the oil filter decrease oil pressure. it will then starts to bottle neck the oil pressure as oil fights to enter & exit the oil filter.
3. YES the largest particles fall to the bottom, but will and could be moved and sucked back up into the oil pump causing a clog. the oil pressure system isnt a trickle effect. its a vacuum.
and please try and explain how our vvel is the same as all other camshaft systems. id love to hear this. its so complex dealers dont even service it.