What Is Your Break-In Method?
03-29-2011, 11:08 AM
#16
Not really. It proves I don't agree with pushing the vehicle so hard before any of the parts have had time to wear in.
Your response does prove your defensive nature though.
Or the reason coffee has to say "CAUTION. HOT!" I suppose people can assume otherwise though if they wish.
Your response does prove your defensive nature though.
Or the reason coffee has to say "CAUTION. HOT!" I suppose people can assume otherwise though if they wish.
03-29-2011, 11:13 AM
#17
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The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.
There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !! If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.
What is the second most common cause of engine problems ???
A: An easy break in !!!
Because, when the rings don't seal well, the blow-by gasses contaminate the oil with acids and other harmful combustion by-products !!
Ironically, an "easy break in" is not at all what it seems. By trying to "protect" the engine, the exact opposite happens, as leaky rings continue to contaminate your engine oil for the rest of the life of your engine !!
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
03-29-2011, 11:16 AM
#18
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and i only mentioned that smart@ss comment because if you read further you would see how a soft break-in is actually not good advice. wasnt meant to be offensive. but i see how it came off like it was.
03-29-2011, 11:30 AM
#21
I think of it like sex. If everything is tight, it's better to start slow and then go fast or the poor girl will get hurt. Sorry to offend with that comparison.
03-29-2011, 11:32 AM
#22
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Absolutely. I may push the car after a week or two. I'd like to think any wearable parts will wear in better by going slow, before adding all of the extra force.
I think of it like sex. If everything is tight, it's better to start slow and then go fast or the poor girl will get hurt. Sorry to offend with that comparison.
I think of it like sex. If everything is tight, it's better to start slow and then go fast or the poor girl will get hurt. Sorry to offend with that comparison.
parts need to fit right, and perfectly- or its going to seize.
and the piston rings operate on pressure: more pressure = better seal.
higher engine speeds = higher pressure = better seal.
and the seal is what your looking for in breaking an engine in.
03-29-2011, 11:35 AM
#23
^^^ can you give me some kind of case or concrete evidence that a easy break in IS the cause of a engine failure or damage? I did an easy break in, have have redline many times since then, you said around 6k miles there will be problems? well i have over that and have none.
Unless there is a case where a motor failed due to a easy break up, i see no reason how a hard break in would be better. Ya we all talk about the piston rings sealing, but do you honestly think a manufacturer would make a customer do that? How many people wuold feel comfortable with a dealer says "ya once you get to the light, red line it about 5-6 times". since modern engines are so precise, i would assume the dealer would be able to forsee the sealing of the piston rings, and tell you how to break it in right. The manual says drive easy. You say this is to avoid legal issues of a motor crapping out from people doing this hard break in method, in that case, why the hell would it?
Unless there is a case where a motor failed due to a easy break up, i see no reason how a hard break in would be better. Ya we all talk about the piston rings sealing, but do you honestly think a manufacturer would make a customer do that? How many people wuold feel comfortable with a dealer says "ya once you get to the light, red line it about 5-6 times". since modern engines are so precise, i would assume the dealer would be able to forsee the sealing of the piston rings, and tell you how to break it in right. The manual says drive easy. You say this is to avoid legal issues of a motor crapping out from people doing this hard break in method, in that case, why the hell would it?
03-29-2011, 11:41 AM
#25
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^^^ can you give me some kind of case or concrete evidence that a easy break in IS the cause of a engine failure or damage? I did an easy break in, have have redline many times since then, you said around 6k miles there will be problems? well i have over that and have none.
Unless there is a case where a motor failed due to a easy break up, i see no reason how a hard break in would be better. Ya we all talk about the piston rings sealing, but do you honestly think a manufacturer would make a customer do that? How many people wuold feel comfortable with a dealer says "ya once you get to the light, red line it about 5-6 times". since modern engines are so precise, i would assume the dealer would be able to forsee the sealing of the piston rings, and tell you how to break it in right. The manual says drive easy. You say this is to avoid legal issues of a motor crapping out from people doing this hard break in method, in that case, why the hell would it?
Unless there is a case where a motor failed due to a easy break up, i see no reason how a hard break in would be better. Ya we all talk about the piston rings sealing, but do you honestly think a manufacturer would make a customer do that? How many people wuold feel comfortable with a dealer says "ya once you get to the light, red line it about 5-6 times". since modern engines are so precise, i would assume the dealer would be able to forsee the sealing of the piston rings, and tell you how to break it in right. The manual says drive easy. You say this is to avoid legal issues of a motor crapping out from people doing this hard break in method, in that case, why the hell would it?
but if you know how the internal parts work it does make sense.
secondly, they cant tell you to NOT drive carelessly, rev the engine making excessive noise, or race the vehicle on the roadways. its all illegal. nor do they want the average moron playing mechanic and sitting there and redlining the engine.
and the 6k marker i posted was just for example. its not uncommon for an engine that never reached over 3.5-4rpm to have serious engine damage if after 40k on the clock, someone decides to redline it.
look at the image i posted prior. the area on top of the cylinder by the deck clearance of the cylinder will be virtually untouched staying thicker then the rest of the cylinder wall. then once the engine reaches 5-6rpm the piston will hit that area just under the clearance section and there you have issues.
03-29-2011, 11:54 AM
#26
well you say that its "common", but says who? ive never heard of a motor problem due to and easy break in. Infiniti could easily says "within the first 20 miles, be sure to allow engine RPM to reach 8000 atleast once to ensure proper piston seal" Or better yet, why wouldnt the dealer just do it for you?
03-29-2011, 12:00 PM
#27
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again, liability. if the dealer breaks an engine- who is going to pay for it? THE DEALER.
but funny thing, at the factory; they rip into your engine on a testing dyno to ensure proper cylinder pressure. but its not enough.
that car needs to be properly broken into, by its future owner. this way = LIABILITY IS ON YOU.
dont forget, dealerships and car manufacturers make money on repairs too.
if you dont seat your piston rings right, and come back at 60k and its burning a little oil. enough to cause random odd misfires, or a check engine light, or a dirty header O2 sensor from the slight oil consumption, or poor performance = repair CHA-CHING!
but funny thing, at the factory; they rip into your engine on a testing dyno to ensure proper cylinder pressure. but its not enough.
that car needs to be properly broken into, by its future owner. this way = LIABILITY IS ON YOU.
dont forget, dealerships and car manufacturers make money on repairs too.
if you dont seat your piston rings right, and come back at 60k and its burning a little oil. enough to cause random odd misfires, or a check engine light, or a dirty header O2 sensor from the slight oil consumption, or poor performance = repair CHA-CHING!
03-29-2011, 12:40 PM
#28
If you do a hard break in and end up "staring at a rod" under 200 miles, I'm sure it would cause a huge mess with them trying to fight the warranty work.
I've never heard of a problem being diagnosed because of an easy break in.
03-29-2011, 12:44 PM
#29
again, liability. if the dealer breaks an engine- who is going to pay for it? THE DEALER.
but funny thing, at the factory; they rip into your engine on a testing dyno to ensure proper cylinder pressure. but its not enough.
that car needs to be properly broken into, by its future owner. this way = LIABILITY IS ON YOU.
dont forget, dealerships and car manufacturers make money on repairs too.
if you dont seat your piston rings right, and come back at 60k and its burning a little oil. enough to cause random odd misfires, or a check engine light, or a dirty header O2 sensor from the slight oil consumption, or poor performance = repair CHA-CHING!
but funny thing, at the factory; they rip into your engine on a testing dyno to ensure proper cylinder pressure. but its not enough.
that car needs to be properly broken into, by its future owner. this way = LIABILITY IS ON YOU.
dont forget, dealerships and car manufacturers make money on repairs too.
if you dont seat your piston rings right, and come back at 60k and its burning a little oil. enough to cause random odd misfires, or a check engine light, or a dirty header O2 sensor from the slight oil consumption, or poor performance = repair CHA-CHING!
03-29-2011, 12:46 PM
#30
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Didnt know about changing the oil thing after 20 or so miles...there is now 60 miles on the car and I will get the oil changed today...should i go with regular oil or full synthetic...which is best for our g37x?