Dead Battery? 10K Miles 2008 G37
12-09-2009, 07:56 PM
#16
I have a 2009 37S MT Coupe that I purchased in March of this year and they just had to replace my battery last month. They put an "M" series battery in it but it's starting to show signs of strain already. The service rep (awesome dude) told me there is a possibility of an issue with the baffles in the exhaust changing with the barometric pressure and running down the battery. You'd think that would be an "accessories" connection. He said they changed the sensor on the exhaust to see if it helped. Infiniti is supposed to be aware of the issue but does not have an actual fix.
That sounds a little like the kind of guy who would change your blinker fluid for only $29.99. Find out more and share with us. This sounds very interesting...
12-09-2009, 11:20 PM
#17
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if it just hits the rubber and that's what the manual means by "side panel roof" then i would be less concerned as the cost to repair/damage would be much less..
12-11-2009, 09:46 AM
#18
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I have a 2008 G37S with 6,500 miles - car would not start a couple of days back although it had been driven a couple of days before that.
It generally is only driven once or twice a week, 35 miles or so per trip
I have never felt that the car started as "aggressively" as I would like, but the battery had made it through last winter, (I'm in Maryland and don't have a garage and it sits outside in freezing temps), without needing a jump
I had some power left, locks were still working but it took two portable batteries hooked up at the same time to get it to turn over
Took it to the dealer and asked that they upgrade me to the next highest "amperage", and they told me they would discuss after checking the battery.
In about 45 min the car got pulled up front, and they informed me that they went ahead and did that - they charged me $22 and change saying the initial battery got pro-rated after the first 12 months
No issue on my end with the charge, I'd offered to pay the difference to get the better battery.
I was very pleased once I started up the G - much more aggressive start, I don't believe it ever sounded this eager, even when new
Happy camper
Eddie
It generally is only driven once or twice a week, 35 miles or so per trip
I have never felt that the car started as "aggressively" as I would like, but the battery had made it through last winter, (I'm in Maryland and don't have a garage and it sits outside in freezing temps), without needing a jump
I had some power left, locks were still working but it took two portable batteries hooked up at the same time to get it to turn over
Took it to the dealer and asked that they upgrade me to the next highest "amperage", and they told me they would discuss after checking the battery.
In about 45 min the car got pulled up front, and they informed me that they went ahead and did that - they charged me $22 and change saying the initial battery got pro-rated after the first 12 months
No issue on my end with the charge, I'd offered to pay the difference to get the better battery.
I was very pleased once I started up the G - much more aggressive start, I don't believe it ever sounded this eager, even when new
Happy camper
Eddie
12-11-2009, 02:58 PM
#20
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Our 2008 is new to us, 20k miles and it's driven every day - no problems so far. I wanted to keep it that way so I ordered a Red Top today .
12-13-2009, 04:11 PM
#21
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2008 G37S. 35,000 miles. Starting have a tougher time cranking starting 2 weeks ago. Went out today, goodbye battery.
Is there truly only a 24 month warranty on the battery? Beyond that, is it prorated?
Is there truly only a 24 month warranty on the battery? Beyond that, is it prorated?
12-14-2009, 01:03 AM
#25
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Installed my Red Top today, no problems but I didn't want to take the chance. $160 is cheap insurance IMHO
12-14-2009, 02:07 AM
#26
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any kind soul out there wanna help me make a picture DIY,
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...ml#post2822099
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...ml#post2822099
12-14-2009, 02:07 AM
#27
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12-14-2009, 09:18 AM
#28
Registered User
I didn't take pictures but it's not that hard:
Remove the positive terminal, remove the positive terminal red plastic protective cap.
There are two cable wireing harness connectors under the positive cables, push release clips and remove the wiring clusters from the heavy cables (makes it easy to swing the positive cables out of the way.
Remove the plastic clips that hold the plastic housing shroud around the battery compartment. To remove the clips, slip a small screw driver under the edge of the middle part of the button, pop it up and then you can just remove the "clips".
Remove the plastic shroud from around the battery compartment.
There is a long rectangular black fuse box right in from of the battery, push the release clip and that will allow you to slid up the fuse box to provide some movement (not much, cable cluster has minimal slack)
Remove more clips from the plastic shroud that is just below the wipers but under the hood. There are several but you only need to go half way across, there is a break in the middle. Slide that piece down (towards the engine) and then you can lift it up and remove.
This now gives you full access to the battery compartment.
Remove the battery hold down clamp and negative terminal.
My Red Top came with a spacer you can install under the battery to raise the height. I used it as the Red Top was not as tall as the OEM. It's really not hard, all you need is a 10mm and 12mm box wrench and a screw driver.
I have to recommend Summit Racing to purchase your Optima, price was great, it was double boxed (unlike a lot of people on Amazon who are getting damaged ones), low shipping cost and arrived in one day!
Remove the positive terminal, remove the positive terminal red plastic protective cap.
There are two cable wireing harness connectors under the positive cables, push release clips and remove the wiring clusters from the heavy cables (makes it easy to swing the positive cables out of the way.
Remove the plastic clips that hold the plastic housing shroud around the battery compartment. To remove the clips, slip a small screw driver under the edge of the middle part of the button, pop it up and then you can just remove the "clips".
Remove the plastic shroud from around the battery compartment.
There is a long rectangular black fuse box right in from of the battery, push the release clip and that will allow you to slid up the fuse box to provide some movement (not much, cable cluster has minimal slack)
Remove more clips from the plastic shroud that is just below the wipers but under the hood. There are several but you only need to go half way across, there is a break in the middle. Slide that piece down (towards the engine) and then you can lift it up and remove.
This now gives you full access to the battery compartment.
Remove the battery hold down clamp and negative terminal.
My Red Top came with a spacer you can install under the battery to raise the height. I used it as the Red Top was not as tall as the OEM. It's really not hard, all you need is a 10mm and 12mm box wrench and a screw driver.
I have to recommend Summit Racing to purchase your Optima, price was great, it was double boxed (unlike a lot of people on Amazon who are getting damaged ones), low shipping cost and arrived in one day!
Last edited by 2008G-Man; 12-14-2009 at 07:07 PM.
12-30-2009, 08:37 PM
#30
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I have a lease and they put in an M Battery for me and also put in a smaller value assembly. I drive mostly short trips 5-10 mins and apparently according to the dealer the vent control value stays on much longer (closer to 30-60 mins), so each time I start the car, it deeps draining away the battery. I just got this put in, so lets see how this workaround does. I had to jump start 3-4 times in the last month and was the 2nd time I brought it back to them.