WhosUrBuddiee

iTrader: (1)

^^^ No you dont.
I had 5% on my G35 and it was miserable. You cannot see anything at night and have to drive around with windows down.

boostard

Where to even begin? Lets put aside the fact that what trim level the car started out as, has no bearing on anything what so ever. Given that everything other then the paint, body, interior, and glass are non OEM and/or factory installed parts, it makes this entire part of the conversation a little irrelevant, don't you think? Let's not even get into WHY I took off the lame factory "DOHC VTEC" stickers and a badge that typically gets pried off by teenagers wielding screwdrivers or knifes.

...and just FYI, the EM1 Si had different (from what is visible from the outside anyway) side sills, front lip, grill, seats, and brakes (most notably the fact that it was the only trim level with rear discs) from every other trim of Civic in it's 99-00 production run.

Point being, you would need to do a lot more to a Civic DX to get it to "look" like an Si trim level then just repaint it... the fact that a DX has no sunroof not wothstanding.

Oh, and a little fact which you seem to be unaware of; ALL 99-00 Civic coupes have those tail lights.



And this is where paying attention to the things you are replying to comes in.

• The post where I stated that over my life I have owned various vehicles including motorcycles and modified high HP sports cars was a completely different one then where I posted a picture of a vehicle.
  Assumption: Aparently EVERY car I own/have owned was/is a "high HP sports car".
• You also fail at reading comprehension. If you would bother to look at the post in question I was using the pictures of a specific car to illustrate a point which has NOTHING to do with "sports cars" or "high HP", or you. [almost] Anyone actually reading the body of that specific post would see that I was stating why I happened to get cited for doing 68 on a freeway with a 65MPH posted limit [read: vehicle discrimination]... and that the tint (as shown, given that the visual medium is the best way to get the point across) has not garnered even a verbal warning by any law enforcement agency in the past 9 years.
• Again, the point of that specific post was NOT to "impress" you or anyone else. Furthermore, I only posted a few pictures of the car in question to better illustrate the point (which you obviously missed. See: bullet point #2) about why I got a ticket and that whole thing about the window tint. I didnt know I needed to have engine pics and a detailed mods list to get that across.
• 350+WHP in a FWD car is an exercise in futility for anything not running drag slicks, and much more so for any vehicle that is intended to be street driven on a regular basis and/or tracked at a road-race or auto-x event. For the time, money and effort put into building this car I could have had a SOHC D series making a reliable 400FWHP under boost... but that obviously wasn't my goal.

Of course since you seem to care so much about how much "wrench turning" was done:




B18C5 (2001 USDM ITR) long block
B16A2 head - Port & Polish, 5 angle valve job, milled @ .30" for 11.2:1 CR
Cometic 2 layer head gasket (bringing it to an 11.5:1CR)
Ferra SS valves & titanium springs/retainers
RC 370cc injectors
Walboro 190lph in tank fuel pump
Skunk2 Stage 2 cams
AEM cam gears
70mm BBK smooth bore throttle body
B18C5 transmission
Exedy full face clutch
ACT 12lb street-lite flywheel
JDM ITR header & skid plate
J's Racing carbon fiber intake
Omni Power 2.5" test pipe (track days) / Catco 3" hi-flow cat (street use)
RS*R EX-Mag cat-back exhaust
Energy Suspension motor mount inserts
Energy Suspension shifter bushings
Energy Suspension full suspension busing replacement kit
JDM ITR LCAs
JDM ITR front and rear sway bars & retaining hardware + custom reinforcement bolsters
Tien FLEX coilover system
SRR rear lower tie bar
SRR rear upper tie bar
USDM ITR front calipers
USDM ITR master cylinder
AEM 12" slotted front rotors & 11" slotted rear rotors
Wilwood proportioning valve
BF Goodridge GStop stainless steel braided brake lines
Hawk HPS brake pads
Motoul RBF600 brake fluid
Rota Circuit-8 rims
Hankook Ventus RS-2s' (215-45-16)
Uberdata chipped P28 ECU (dyno/wide-band tuned)
B&M S bend stainless steel short shifter
JDM CTR shifter boot
JDM Accord-R 5spd billet shifter ****


*Dyno done with test pipe in place, power drops to 208.7WHP with free flow cat.

Mind you, that is an all motor 1.8l 4 cyl running the 91 **** water pump gas they they call "premium fuel" in this state. At a conservative 12% decrease from the crank to the wheels, this gives a 71WHP gain over the stock 160BHP 1.6l B16A2 engine.



Given the assumptions you were making about what I was posting and why, it actually becomes very "relevant"



Indeed I did misunderstand. I can only go by the fact that my state, every tinting business that I've either been to, talked to, or have researched, and basically every major automotive tinting film manufacturer (e.g. 3M, Johnsons, Llumar, Solar Control, SunTek, et al) goes by the % rating in relation to lower numbers being darker. I apologize for not being up on the "standards" used in whatever state you are from.



Do you kiss your mother with that mouth?

And really?!? You would place money on the fact that my "habit" of driving 80 on on a 65 - 70MPH posted freeway(s) is the reason why I got a vast majority of my speeding violation citations??? Can you pick some lottery numbers for me too? Please?



Wow.. who would have thought that you might actually get a ticket for "doing something"... like... oh I dont know.... traveling at any speed above a posted legal limit. You have some awesome powers of logic and observation my friend.



Why, thank you! Have a nice day!

G2Envy

iTrader: (1)

So this blonde and brunette walk into a bar...

boostard

Do their curtains match?

WhosUrBuddiee

iTrader: (1)

Wow, dont get so butt hurt over your civic. Not everyone is going to like the car, unless they are in high school that is and live their life a 1/4 mile at a time.

boostard

<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name="ProgId" content="Word.Document"><meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 10"><meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 10"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5CJASMIN%7E2.JAS%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTe mp%5Cmsohtml1%5C02%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]-->Actually, if I really cared I would have posted that information before someone else brought it up (along with time slips, track videos and whatever other unnecessary information I could find from my work PC). Whats more, I could really care less what a faceless internet avatar thinks about... well... anything I have or do.

Lastly, if you had bothered reading, I didn’t build a drag car out of that civic… nor did I build it to impress... well anyone (other then the people I am competing against in various events I suppose). It was and is intended to be an auto-x/road-race car. Something of which it is very capable, all while never needing to be trailered to the track or back. I would say mission accomplished on that front.

FYI, building a front wheel drive car purposely to be fast in a straight line is a losing proposition. FWD traction FTL.

BradManUWF

Haha, nice movie reference. I would agree with the high school/college car and he did get a little butt hurt over his civic. After you're done with college, at the latest, it's definitely time to upgrade to something better with more luxury/comfort options and accessories.

I think it still looks nice though. I'd drive it but not as my primary vehicle. It would be more of the project car to tinker with and personalize and then sell to some high school/college kid for him to rice it out and live a 1/4 mile at a time, lol. Then you take the sale money and turn around to purchase another project car and start over, but that's just me. I like tinkering with stuff.

Boostard, that's good stuff on that B18/16 frankenstein swap. I had a buddy do that, and like you, he got some pretty good numbers out of it. If you still have it, I'd def take it in for some tuning because that drop in HP and TQ in the 6-7K range should not be there. I could understand a TQ drop off on the end but both HP and TQ drop in the same area, so something wasn't 100% with that tune. No red valve cover? awwww lol j/k

And yes, 5% all around would suck for driving at night. You wouldn't be able to see sh't. I'd go no darker than 20% on the sides and 15% on the back window for safety reasons. I wouldn't want to be the guy that backed up over a person, or worse a child, because my tint was too dark to see anything but headlights.

Chekov

You comment is right on the mark. I’ve been saying that for a some time now, but most ultra-dark tint enthusiasts just won’t listen. Although 20% or darker for the back window is legal (in California at least), IMO it still is not a wise thing to do.

boostard

Thats one of three cars which I own. I believe that the G37 in my garage (and signature... does no one look at this?) counts as the semi-luxo/comfort vehicle to which you refer. As I said before, Ive owned that civic for going on 9 years now, and it is used primarily as an auto-x/road race vehicle (although I do use it to transport things given that it has more trunk space then the G37 coupe).

If I want to take a vehicle to the drag strip or do some drifting at the local events, then Ill use the MR2 (sitting on a TD06 to replace the ATS CT27 turbo thats in it now...if I ever get time to do the work that is... should make close to 400RWHP after the install).

I also used to own an FD RX7 which was stolen about 3 years ago... had about 12K worth of monds in it, and it was a beast of a track car... the thing pulled down 11s all day and could still be driven ***** out at the road race/auto-x events... but thats a different story.

As for the "dip", thats the VTEC x-over on the cams. Given their agressive aftermarket profiles and the way the system works, this is something which isnt easily remedied unless I wanted "VTEC killer" cams, which dont have a mild and agressive profile (just agressive, heh)... however this would diminish drivability on the street as well as other aspects. And indeed I have had it tuned on a dyno/wideband.

Point being, the G37 is staying stock minus small things like... oh... window tint. I have other toys to play around with.

boostard

Oh, and to bring things full circle, I got the tinting done today. I went with the Johnson GreyStone 40% tint on all 5 windows. I am very happy with the results. Not too dark and not too light with very good outward visibility even in low light conditions.

Id put pictures up right now, but my finacee took off to Rome yesterday and has my DSLR in tow, so that will have to wait until next Thursday

Mike

iTrader: (1)

Since other cars are being brought into this discussion...

That "vtec crossover" dip shouldn't be an actual dip, just a jump when VTEC engages. The dyno is normal. B18C5 has a higher redline. Why does your dyno stop at 7800? It should be 8200 if its stock. Given your mods, assuming you have some sort of valvetrainwork, you should be doing at least 8600, if not 9000+

Your 106 trap speed is VERY low for a 290whp car.

What class does your civic AutoX in? SM? Do you enjoy getting decimated by the competition? That's a very very scary class to be in...

AutoX and track setups are vastly different. You actually configure the car for BOTH? You're using unadjustable sways and single adjustable coils. Also, those tires are... sub-par for auto-x/track use. I hope you have an alternate set of rims/tires? Hawk HPS pads? Street pads on a auto-x/track car? Seems more like a street car that is occasionally involved in HPDE more than the other way around....

Tell you what. Bring the MR-2 to buttonwillow on Sunday 6/7. I'd be more than happy to have a TA battle with you with my BEAMS red-top mr-2 or the s2k. The s2k puts down 186 on a mustang dyno. NCRC/Speedventures is hosting.

boostard

First of all, I fail to see the point of trying to measure your virtual **** here, but Ill let you go ahead and play with your epenis.

• I am glad that you know how the specific cams I am using operate in their environment. Trust me when I say that given the EMS and mechanical limitations, this is a very typical dyno plot for what I have even after hours of fiddling with the wideband and a dynojet.
• The fact that you are trying to solely relate WHP to trap speed makes me wonder if you even know what you are talking about.
• Yes, I use the Civic in the SCCA Solo II Street Modified class. I have also placed more then a few times in my regional events.
• Indeed, I do use the car at autocross events as well as having taken it to Infineon on multiple occasions (typically for track days sponsored by local/regional clubs).
• These aren't "dedicated cars" of any ilk. Your assumptions hint at your ignorance and arogance here. All three of my current vehicles are for milti purpose use, including track use (for two of them anyway). If I were to have purpose built... well.... anything from the ground up to be a track only car, I would have spent money on different equipment in most places. And then there is the whole monitary issue, with variables such as wear and longitivity... but thats a different story.
• I use the Hankook Ventus Z214s' when participating at most timed events, however I have and do use street tires to better my skills in real world applications.
• I've yet to experience fade with either the HPS' or Porterfield R4S' which I use in both of my vehicles, even under track duty. I see no reason to create extra cost or wear for my self given that Im doing this as a hobby and for FUN.
• The MR2 is an ongoing project which I recently aquired. So far its only been used on the street and at the strip. I do not intend to use this for other track events at the moment.
• If you bothered actually looking at my posted dyno you would see that peak power production occurs at 8650RPM. You may want to learn how to read a dyno graph... or at least the basic numbers printed at the bottom of one.

You can zip it back up now.

Edit: by the way...

StopTheExcuses

iTrader: (1)

People tell me all the time that my 240sx traps low for the whp. Well, SO MANY variables play into account that people just don't factor in. For example, on Street tires, I was running consistent 12.4's at 119mph with 2.0 to 2.1 60 foots.

Now, I slap on my MT Slicks and start running 11's. My run of 11.8 I trapped 116mph. Sooo, my mph was 3 slower than on street tires, but my 60 foot was 3 tenths better.

The lower the 60 foot, the lower the trap speed. Period. Don't you guys watch Pass Time?? LOL. MULTIPLE cars running ten second quarter miles but yet trapping under 120mph. These guys have 500plus whp!

Mike

iTrader: (1)

Now these are generalizations, but:

every .1 dropped on a 60' generally drops .2 on the ET.

WHP increases trap speed. More whp? higher trap.

Traction = better launch = better 60' = better ET.

All crude generalizations, but for the most part, pretty accurate.


@ Boostard:

Your dyno has no x-axis scale. The numbers mean squat, since I have no basis to go off of. My mistake in assuming the low redline; I simply went by the lines since I had no scale to go by.

I find it hard to believe that you are not fading street pads with slicks at the track.

Assuming your civic is set up for AutoX and you're a competitive driver that places in SM, how are you not fading your brakes at the track? IIRC the HPS/R4S have a upper threshold of 600C (1100F). I know you're not afraid of 80+ speeds... I don't have any experience with teh Z214, but arn't both compounds available a bit soft for hotlapping? Seems they'd be perfect for a 2 lap time attack.... but again, that would result in brake fade.

You previously mentioned 4 years of experience on a Dynapack, but the civic is on a dynojet? =\

Your mods and longevity don't really mix (high comp, high revs, slicks), but that's your choice I suppose....

As for not being dedicated race cars... you said yourself you purpose built it to be an auto-x car... HPS and R4S are well suited for that...

My assumptions are based only on what you have stated about your cars.


We're totally off topic.... ;p

Bwin

Im 19 and im still in College and i have the G37s why wait till out of college? lol.