Pretty dead in here....
02-23-2006, 07:45 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by DrRabbitFurHead
you cannot tighten the header bolt any more IF they backed out the stud going into the block. It is threaded on BOTH sides and I'm saying that the stud isn't screwed into the block far enough. The nut over the header is as tight as it can be, but the header bolt needs to go into the block more to make the header flange mate to the block.
The problem is... STEEL bolt and ALUMINUM block. The steel is probably cross threaded due to them backing the bolt out and not being able to get the proper tools in to install it properly.
My car was messed up pretty bad on BOTH sides. The last bolts closest to the passengers were backed out and not threaded back in properly. The only tool you can get on the bolt is a torex fitting (and it's really small). Couple the size with the length of the bolt and you've got a nightmare on your hands.
Odds are you will have to back out the bolt, cut it to 1/2 it's size, rechase the thread and then bolt it back in. Just make sure to measure and remeasure so the bolt is at least 5 threads longer than the header flange.
The problem is... STEEL bolt and ALUMINUM block. The steel is probably cross threaded due to them backing the bolt out and not being able to get the proper tools in to install it properly.
My car was messed up pretty bad on BOTH sides. The last bolts closest to the passengers were backed out and not threaded back in properly. The only tool you can get on the bolt is a torex fitting (and it's really small). Couple the size with the length of the bolt and you've got a nightmare on your hands.
Odds are you will have to back out the bolt, cut it to 1/2 it's size, rechase the thread and then bolt it back in. Just make sure to measure and remeasure so the bolt is at least 5 threads longer than the header flange.
Hesus Cristay, Neff! It's about time--this is EXACTLY what I have been looking for--the solution. I KNOW it just can't be tightened down, I just needed to know how to solve the potential problem so I can tell them myself, because I obviously am not gonna do it...
I REALLY appreciate it!!!
02-23-2006, 11:43 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by DrRabbitFurHead
you cannot tighten the header bolt any more IF they backed out the stud going into the block. It is threaded on BOTH sides and I'm saying that the stud isn't screwed into the block far enough. The nut over the header is as tight as it can be, but the header bolt needs to go into the block more to make the header flange mate to the block.
I would think that continued tightening of the nut would screw the stud into the head as desired and provide the proper clamping action. Obviously that's not the case. Maybe the stud has left handed threads on the end. That would be unusual.
I would think that if the nut continues to spin and not tighten down the header, that the cylinder head stud holes might be stripped out. The stud just spins. They probably spun because of what Todd said... they didn't screw them far enough into the cylinder head before tightening.
You might need to put a heli-coil in the cylinder head. That will repair/rebuild the threads.
02-23-2006, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by _jb
They removed the studs so they could slide the header in, then didn't screw the studs far enough back into the block. Now the nut tightens down until it hits the non-threaded area of the stud.
I would think that continued tightening of the nut would screw the stud into the head as desired and provide the proper clamping action. Obviously that's not the case. Maybe the stud has left handed threads on the end. That would be unusual.
I would think that if the nut continues to spin and not tighten down the header, that the cylinder head stud holes might be stripped out. The stud just spins. They probably spun because of what Todd said... they didn't screw them far enough into the cylinder head before tightening.
You might need to put a heli-coil in the cylinder head. That will repair/rebuild the threads.
I would think that continued tightening of the nut would screw the stud into the head as desired and provide the proper clamping action. Obviously that's not the case. Maybe the stud has left handed threads on the end. That would be unusual.
I would think that if the nut continues to spin and not tighten down the header, that the cylinder head stud holes might be stripped out. The stud just spins. They probably spun because of what Todd said... they didn't screw them far enough into the cylinder head before tightening.
You might need to put a heli-coil in the cylinder head. That will repair/rebuild the threads.
02-23-2006, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Gumba35
r10apple-See I knew someone could help. Let us know how it goes.
As a second side note, I got a response from Strup itself as well. They recommended a disassembly of that side where the problem may have come from. While they would not comment as to larger, potential gains, they did advise that the plot should be different for sure and stand behind their product fully. Partshipper Dave had a similar answer a few days ago...Nothing but great service from both of them as well.
I'll go ahead and get my oil changed and recharge my airfilter at the same time (the latter if need be) next week. Hopefully, I'll be able to tell a difference and all will be right again...
02-23-2006, 04:47 PM
#36
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What to do now... Have your nearest Infiniti or Nissan dealership buy you 4 of these bolts, and cut 2 of them to one length and the other 2 to another. Take a tap and die set (pretty sure that's what it's called) and re-chase the threads to remove the end pieces from cutting down the bolts. This way you'll be ready for the job when the time comes.
Also, you might want to consider removing the h/f cats to do this job. You'll be glad you did when you get under there (speaking from experience).
Sincerely,
Dr. Bunny Fuzzy Nuts
Also, you might want to consider removing the h/f cats to do this job. You'll be glad you did when you get under there (speaking from experience).
Sincerely,
Dr. Bunny Fuzzy Nuts
02-24-2006, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by DrRabbitFurHead
What to do now... Have your nearest Infiniti or Nissan dealership buy you 4 of these bolts, and cut 2 of them to one length and the other 2 to another. Take a tap and die set (pretty sure that's what it's called) and re-chase the threads to remove the end pieces from cutting down the bolts. This way you'll be ready for the job when the time comes.
Also, you might want to consider removing the h/f cats to do this job. You'll be glad you did when you get under there (speaking from experience).
Sincerely,
Dr. Bunny Fuzzy Nuts
Also, you might want to consider removing the h/f cats to do this job. You'll be glad you did when you get under there (speaking from experience).
Sincerely,
Dr. Bunny Fuzzy Nuts
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