_jb

So, like, couldn't he just tighten the header bolts...

Or, maybe put on a new gasket and tighten the header bolts...

Or, maybe put on two header gaskets and tighten the header bolts... double gaskets help the seal if there is an irregular surface on one of the flanges...

If it's hard to find the exhaust leak... put some talcum powder on your header flanges... it will blow off where the leak is... alternately, just crank down on each of the header bolts and see if any of them seem loose.

_jb

And don't forget that damn board...

r10apple

Exactly, hard to find--especially by me!!! You really think the powder thing will work?

And gumba, see my dyno post a few down from this one on the whole issue at hand...

WILD121

iTrader: (2)

its dead in here bc im not on as much..... im a little busy.

SFLG35

iTrader: (18)

i dont think that is a true statement there dan

WILD121

iTrader: (2)

your a homo

SFLG35

iTrader: (18)

is that your only come back.
it seems to be since its the only thing you can say to me

_jb

It should be you're, not your...

_jb

I think just tightening the bolts will work.

I've used powder to find other kinds of leaks... I don't see why it wouldn't work.

r10apple

But, if the stud was messed up somehow, I--I dunno that simply tightening is gonna work...

_jb

I didn't realize that they were studs. In any event, you need to tighten the header to the exhaust manifold to eliminate the leak. If a stud is stripped, you'll probably need to replace it.



The above picture from the Service Manual notes that the nuts that hold the headers on are to be replaced after every use. I suspect that they are some sort of self-locking nuts.

I seem to remember that someone else installed your headers. I suggest you go back to them and explain your problem. If they do nothing and won't help you, mark them off your list, tell us, and we'll al avoid them in the future.

My long term solution for your problem is to call John Oliva at Lokey and explain your problem. I'm sure Lokey can fix your problem, whatever it turns out to be.

r10apple

that diagram helps me better understand which 1.5 stuf it likely is...Thanks, jb. I really do think my shop will take care of me, but if I have a problem, I will be in Clearwater March 6 so I will take it to Lokey...

twinchell

Resurrect the post ***** thread!

SFLG35

iTrader: (18)

you should come two days earlier and come for our big meet

DrRabbitFurHead

you cannot tighten the header bolt any more IF they backed out the stud going into the block. It is threaded on BOTH sides and I'm saying that the stud isn't screwed into the block far enough. The nut over the header is as tight as it can be, but the header bolt needs to go into the block more to make the header flange mate to the block.

The problem is... STEEL bolt and ALUMINUM block. The steel is probably cross threaded due to them backing the bolt out and not being able to get the proper tools in to install it properly.

My car was messed up pretty bad on BOTH sides. The last bolts closest to the passengers were backed out and not threaded back in properly. The only tool you can get on the bolt is a torex fitting (and it's really small). Couple the size with the length of the bolt and you've got a nightmare on your hands.

Odds are you will have to back out the bolt, cut it to 1/2 it's size, rechase the thread and then bolt it back in. Just make sure to measure and remeasure so the bolt is at least 5 threads longer than the header flange.